Oil in Throttle Body

[fjgoober]

I ran a compression check 175 to 183 on all cylinders. I've been reading FSM this afternoon thinking there was something obvious that I missed.....Then the wife walked by and said Would it be that little box the previous owner had on there? She may have something there. PO had put some type of computer kit on the MAF sensor. I've taken it off before and it ran terrible with out it. Now I'm thinking that I didn't give the old computer long enough to learn how to run without it.

It would almost make sense that if that computer mounted on the MAF caused smaller valve opening you would have greater velocities on the air flow through there. Big Venturi as well as made up air needed out of crank case. Looks good on paper but I know that I may be all wet here. I'll clean up the MAF and take off the computer thingy and slap her back together.

PS. I noticed that I have oil on the upstream side of my MAF. Whole big rubber tube has oil in it. I either have entirely too much crancase pressure or entirely too much flow from my crancase ventilation. I was kind of hoping one of you guys had seen this before and would say......Look here boy....This is what is going on!!!

 

[bmac1996acc]

You should have a ton of blue smoke losing that much oil if it's all passing through the combustion chamber. Maybe you have a combination of problems. If your PCV was stuck closed you may build up enough pressure to blow out oil through all sorts of seals and the other line that connects to the intake that doesn't have a valve on it.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Bump

Well did anyone find a solution?

Pluged valve cover oil baffles? Switching to rotella t6 or dello 400?

I recently noticed some oil inside my intake past the butterfly valve. The PCV valve is new and hose doesn't seem too oily.

I want to build a new motor with a factory short block and throw a supercharger or one of Joey's turbos on but with good compression numbers I'll probably wait a bit.

Happy New Year mud

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

When I had my valve cover off for powder coating I was surprised to find the inside of the baffle was full of sludge. It might be worth a try to flush out the oil baffle (?? via the PCV and breather holes if you don't want to take it off again). If the baffle is plugged with sludge the bottom of the PCV valve could be sitting in a pool of oil.
View attachment 670208

Did you hot tank prior to powder coat?

 

[Kernal]

I took the valve cover to an engine shop and they ran it through their
engine block washer, then lightly bead blasted the outer surfaces (probably not required), then into the washer again, then garden hose washed it out some more. There was a ton of sludge in the baffle box before washing and Carb/Brake cleaner didn't touch it. As I recall the engine shop used some sort of super detergent in their washer they said would not hurt the metal.

After about 8-9 years I noticed some bubbling of the powder coating however
it may not have been applied/cooked correctly (the shop that did the work
went out of business shortly thereafter due to poor quality).

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

I took the valve cover to an engine shop and they ran it through their
engine block washer, then lightly bead blasted the outer surfaces (probably not required), then into the washer again, then garden hose washed it out some more. There was a ton of sludge in the baffle box before washing and Carb/Brake cleaner didn't touch it. As I recall the engine shop used some sort of super detergent in their washer they said would not hurt the metal.

After about 8-9 years I noticed some bubbling of the powder coating however
it may not have been applied/cooked correctly (the shop that did the work
went out of business shortly thereafter due to poor quality).

Awesome thanks

I've been reading a lot of threads I'm thinking my valve cover baffles are blocked some which is why I'm losing oil.

Compressions great no external leaks no smoke at startup or while driving. I do have caked-on oil inside the throttle body past the butterfly valve.

I plan to pull my valve cover this weekend, check the valves clearance and have a look at those baffles and sludge in the valve cover. If need be I'll take it to get hot tanked to clean all the junk out and I have some high temperature spray paint I may spray the valve cover with.

 

[BILT4ME]

Awesome thanks

I've been reading a lot of threads I'm thinking my valve cover baffles are blocked some which is why I'm losing oil.

Compressions great no external leaks no smoke at startup or while driving. I do have caked-on oil inside the throttle body past the butterfly valve.

I plan to pull my valve cover this weekend, check the valves clearance and have a look at those baffles and sludge in the valve cover. If need be I'll take it to get hot tanked to clean all the junk out and I have some high temperature spray paint I may spray the valve cover with.

Also, leaking spark plug tube seals can exacerbate the problem.

There is a throttle body hose that pulls air into the throttle body (other than the PCV line) If your PCV is clogged or less than perfect, it will allow the throttle body hose to pull more vacuum.

As the spark plug tube seal allow air in, the air picks up oil and rushes to the throttle body hose and sucks it out. Mind you, it is almost vapor when it's going through and it accumulates in the throttle body and looks really bad.

Yes, valve seals and rings will help this, but do the easy stuff first (VC seal, spark plug tube seals, PCV valve and grommet, Dizzy O-Ring)

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Also, leaking spark plug tube seals can exacerbate the problem.

There is a throttle body hose that pulls air into the throttle body (other than the PCV line) If your PCV is clogged or less than perfect, it will allow the throttle body hose to pull more vacuum.

As the spark plug tube seal allow air in, the air picks up oil and rushes to the throttle body hose and sucks it out. Mind you, it is almost vapor when it's going through and it accumulates in the throttle body and looks really bad.

Yes, valve seals and rings will help this, but do the easy stuff first (VC seal, spark plug tube seals, PCV valve and grommet, Dizzy O-Ring)

Bilt4me thanks!

I have no oil on the vent side of the throttle body only after the butterfly so I'm guessing it's not the vent.

Part of my previous p.m. I replaced the crank seal, oil pump seal, distributor o ring (dizzy oring correct?). Also new pcv, grommet, & every hose in the truck is new. Along with plugs, wires, cap rotor, complete cooling system new including blue fan clutch.

I have a new valve cover gasket I may have or will obtain spark plug seals from a previous engine build. I will pull the valve cover check the valves and look at the baffles also.

Super appreciate your reply and keeping me focused on easy stuff first.

Can't believe it took this long to get my Land Cruiser spent so many years restoring my 98 Tacoma.

Mud and 80 series landcruiser so much more fun

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Also, leaking spark plug tube seals can exacerbate the problem.

There is a throttle body hose that pulls air into the throttle body (other than the PCV line) If your PCV is clogged or less than perfect, it will allow the throttle body hose to pull more vacuum.

As the spark plug tube seal allow air in, the air picks up oil and rushes to the throttle body hose and sucks it out. Mind you, it is almost vapor when it's going through and it accumulates in the throttle body and looks really bad.

Yes, valve seals and rings will help this, but do the easy stuff first (VC seal, spark plug tube seals, PCV valve and grommet, Dizzy O-Ring)

Valve cover baffles look clean. Carb cleaner and air run freely, no chunks.

Valve cover gasket had no leaks, no visible signs of sucking air in.

Valve cover vent crystal clean.
Pcv valve hole looks slightly oily but overall unobstructed.

Spark plug seals must be the culprit. To me what looks like alot of oil in throttle body and intake (photos attached). Compared to my 98 Toyota Tacoma 3rz build this seems to be a lot of oil in the intake.

Compression is great! According to fsm 171# & a 14# delta is within spec.
1. 188#
2. 185#
3. 178#
4. 178#
5. 180#
6. 190#

No smoke at startup no smoke accelerating punching it on highway at all.

Any other thoughts on this or ideas while I have her apart for a valve check tomorrow?

 

[Malleus]

This gets my vote. I know mine leak, on all of my 80's. It's on my list when the weather warms up. Until then, I'm dealing with it.

I'd definitely vote for replacing these seals, if you don't know when it was done last, before pouring "magic oil" into the engine. What is your driving profile like? How long do you typically drive, before you turn off the engine? If you're a typical driver, and don't drive for 30 minutes or more to really warm up the engine (and idling in traffic doesn't count), the result is that condensate forms on the inner surface of the valve cover. When you start the engine next time, the water, and the oil suspended in it, floats around in there, and the PCV valve sucks it up, because that's what it's supposed to do. The remainder, if any, falls out of suspension in the interior of the valve cover and gets sucked into the throttle body.

BTW, I can assure you you cannot add metal to the cylinders by pouring anything into the top end. And adding metal is the only thing that's going to "reseat" a piston ring.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

This gets my vote. I know mine leak, on all of my 80's. It's on my list when the weather warms up. Until then, I'm dealing with it.

I'd definitely vote for replacing these seals, if you don't know when it was done last, before pouring "magic oil" into the engine. What is your driving profile like? How long do you typically drive, before you turn off the engine? If you're a typical driver, and don't drive for 30 minutes or more to really warm up the engine (and idling in traffic doesn't count), the result is that condensate forms on the inner surface of the valve cover. When you start the engine next time, the water, and the oil suspended in it, floats around in there, and the PCV valve sucks it up, because that's what it's supposed to do. The remainder, if any, falls out of suspension in the interior of the valve cover and gets sucked into the throttle body.

BTW, I can assure you you cannot add metal to the cylinders by pouring anything into the top end. And adding metal is the only thing that's going to "reseat" a piston ring.

The spark plug tube seals were the hardest of brittle plastic. I'll be replacing those after I get the valve cover hot tanked.

Other than a few tiny vac lines, coolant lines I couldn't get to till I had the valve cover off. With great compression I'll throw her back together and switch gear to the front end and suspension.

I'll report back on cleaning up the valve cover and replacing the spark tube seals. Old seals and new photo attached. Bilt4me brought up an excellent point, there's no way the spark tube seals were sealed as hard and brittle as they were.

Hmm..... Maybe I should pull the injectors while I have her this far for float test, filter change and cleaning......

Thanks Mud

 

[Joe Link]

I'm thinking of cleaning my valve cover baffle while the valve cover is off. Did you guys have any luck without taking it somewhere or removing it and tapping it for screws/bolts?

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

I brought mine to a friend's shop, he ran it through the parts cleaner

I'm thinking of cleaning my valve cover baffle while the valve cover is off. Did you guys have any luck without taking it somewhere or removing it and tapping it for screws/bolts?

I had great luck bringing mine to a friend with a shop and parts cleaner machine here in the Bay Area California.

the valve cover and intake or absolutely disgusting, when I built my 1998 Tacoma 3rz a couple years ago the valve cover look nice and clean I didn't have to do anything with it. The one FC was so gross I thought about just buying a new one.

doing this along with all the other maintenance items including the spark plug seals solved my oil in my intake.

 

[Joe Link]

Those look fantastic! Do you remember how long the cycle took? I have a buddy with a nice parts washer but it didn't get the parts we tried cleaning that clean.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Those look fantastic! Do you remember how long the cycle took? I have a buddy with a nice parts washer but it didn't get the parts we tried cleaning that clean.

I think he said 1 hour.
I was blown away when he pulled them out and I felt sadness I didn't go to the trouble of pulling the lower intake.

with the wiring harness and lower intake issue I chose to leave it in place. I had time because I had sent my fuel injectors off down south to get cleaned and balance and I'm glad I did they were way out like bad bad.

I used a small shop vac with no filter so direct exhaust to atmosphere and to the fuel injector cup openings and using carb cleaner , a flexible stiff bristle brush I cleaned the lower intake the best I could.

I'm currently dealing with a small hairline crack below the freeze plug on the driver side above the block drain. it only leads coolant on a Wheeling trip a few weeks ago over 6,000 ft where the radiator burped I suspect a bad new factory radiator cap over pressure.

I might be bringing a lot more parts to that shop to get cleaned if the crack progresses or continues to leak I may just go at the new factory Short block. this is sort of off subject but I figured I'd throw it in if anyone had any two cents to add

Looking for a 1FZ Long Block? New/Rebuilt

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