Looking for a 1FZ Long Block? New/Rebuilt

[mickeyt]

Do a brass 3 core radiator from Beno and never worry for years to come.

 

[specialk396]

Have the machine shop check the crank(size needed to clean up) prior to making big plans, as a crank can be a dealbreaker if it can't be repaired without welding. Takes a lot to seize these engines, in my experience.

P.S. Sorry didn't see page 2 until after I commented. Good luck on getting it back on the road.

 

[PDoyle]

Yes. A new radiator is a must.

 

[Mikesta]

Any updates?

 

[CRUISER TIME]

Well with everything being ordered I am just waiting on stuff to come in. I am looking into "what else" should I do while the engine is out. I am mainly looking for the must does and not really the nice to do unless they are inexpensive. I don't mind spending the money on things that I should really do. I am still debating on a new radiator but I am sure there are other items I am overlooking.

Since your engine is out, check your master engine / tranny electrical cable " a one piece unit from Toyota". Usually around the egr valve and other areas heat from the engine and engine components burn up the cable, and cause future electrical isues. If all is good, wrap some heat wrapping material around the wiring nea r the egr vavle and other areas like around the trany and starter area.

Also if you have not done the PHH mod , for the little coolant hose , off the engine block, right under the intake air plenium. much easier to do this now if you have not done so already.

Depending on ur budget, there a quite a few air pollution sensors , controls, and temperature probs for engine management and cooling control, along with 2 knock sensors......Most of these sensors and controls are located right under the air intake plenium on the drivers' side. Much easier to replace now, then later. Trust me , I know first hand,,, I did this work with the engine still in the vehicle,,,not fun, but doable.

also take a good look at all the tranny lines,, especially the rubber lines. There are also some small coolant lines called water bypass hoses,, around the engine

Good luck,,,,, hope all goes well . Interested to know what caused your motor to fail. As far as synthetic vs conventional motor oil for our 80's,,, I heard " no proff" that synthetic oil does not go well with our 80 engines. I have been using Castrol 5w-30 conventional oil for many years,,m every 5,000 miles or 6 months,,, no issues.


CRUISER TIME

 

[CRUISER TIME]

Do a brass 3 core radiator from Beno and never worry for years to come.

One of the best upgrades I have done, highly recommended.

CRUISER TIME

 

[kirkm76]

Don't break the knock sensors. They are not particularly cheap.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

One of the best upgrades I have done, highly recommended.

CRUISER TIME

Found this hairline crack a few days ago, zero leakage since. However, I assume the block is done?

Had her 1 year, PO was awesome and honest about blowing the PHH and over heating.

Considering a factory short block when the time comes, my plan is to run her for a while and monitor, good plan???

Does anyone have the part numbers for factory short block
Factory long block, if available
And 3 core brass radiator sounds like a nice update on my 1997, part number?

I bought the truck thinking it had a possible shot engine but compression was amazing.

Thanks MUD

 

[OGBeno]

11400-66041 is the factory short block.
16400-66040 is the 3-core brass radiator.

There is no such thing as a factory long block.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

11400-66041 is the factory short block.
16400-66040 is the 3-core brass radiator.

There is no such thing as a factory long block.

11400-66041 is the factory short block.
16400-66040 is the 3-core brass radiator.

There is no such thing as a factory long block.

Thank You @Onur

I've seen mention of the factory three core brass in a few other posts but I don't see anyone talk about the fan shroud does it lineup?

 

[OGBeno]

Thank You @Onur

I've seen mention of the factory three core brass in a few other posts but I don't see anyone talk about the fan shroud does it lineup?

Direct fit.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Direct fit.

Awesome!
I'm going to monitor that hairline crack, a few friends have suggested Lock & stitch but with 300K and not knowing the engines previous history I'm thinking a short block is the way to go, and now a brass radiator that sounds awesome.

Thoughts?

Thanks

 

[BILT4ME]

Awesome!
I'm going to monitor that hairline crack, a few friends have suggested Lock & stitch but with 300K and not knowing the engines previous history I'm thinking a short block is the way to go, and now a brass radiator that sounds awesome.

Thoughts?

Thanks

The "brass" radiator as everone refers to them, do NOT cool better than the OEM aluminum unit that comes in the 95+ trucks. Onur has pointed this out numerous times.

If it were my engine block with this issue, I would drain the block, remove the core plug, then with Scotch Brite and or emery cloth, I would clean the area well inside and out in the crack location. I would the coat the inside of the crack with Permatex #2 form-a-gasket sealer, pushing it into the crack area to make sure it was into the crack. I would also coat the outside of the crack in the same manner. I would then coat the inside of the hole as well as the outside of the new core plug, and tap in the new core plug. Let it cure for about 4 hours, then introduce coolant into the system.

 

[OGBeno]

I’ve never made any commentary for or against any OEM radiator. They each have their positives and negatives.

And I’ve never said the brass cools worse than the aluminum.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

The "brass" radiator as everone refers to them, do NOT cool better than the OEM aluminum unit that comes in the 95+ trucks. Onur has pointed this out numerous times.

If it were my engine block with this issue, I would drain the block, remove the core plug, then with Scotch Brite and or emery cloth, I would clean the area well inside and out in the crack location. I would the coat the inside of the crack with Permatex #2 form-a-gasket sealer, pushing it into the crack area to make sure it was into the crack. I would also coat the outside of the crack in the same manner. I would then coat the inside of the hole as well as the outside of the new core plug, and tap in the new core plug. Let it cure for about 4 hours, then introduce coolant into the system.

@BILT4ME this is fantastic advice and what I have been searching for. I'm a 25 year electrician who's learning this 80 series platform, excitedly.

I want to do everything once and I want to do it right.

So is your opinion the same as mine, with fantastic compression and her running well this is definitely worth a try? Over dropping a bunch of coin on a new short block?

When I built my 98 Tacoma 3rz LC engineering suggested brass freeze plugs. Do you have a preference for the 1fz, should I just call my local Toyota parts buddy and put in whatever spect?

Thanks!!!

 

[BILT4ME]

@BILT4ME this is fantastic advice and what I have been searching for. I'm a 25 year electrician who's learning this 80 series platform, excitedly.

I want to do everything once and I want to do it right.

So is your opinion the same as mine, with fantastic compression and her running well this is definitely worth a try? Over dropping a bunch of coin on a new short block?

When I built my 98 Tacoma 3rz LC engineering suggested brass freeze plugs. Do you have a preference for the 1fz, should I just call my local Toyota parts buddy and put in whatever spect?

Thanks!!!

My other car is a Studebaker.

So, my answer is yes.

I have kept that car on the road for 39 years. I still drive it often, in all kinds of weather.

The LC is MUCH more robust than a Stude.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

My other car is a Studebaker.

So, my answer is yes.

I have kept that car on the road for 39 years. I still drive it often, in all kinds of weather.

The LC is MUCH more robust than a Stude.

Nice!

Some have suggested Cracked Block 1FZ-FE bars stop leak. Im not knowlegebale in bottle repair though i have heard many great success stories.

I would like to keep driving and enjoying her until the engine is done, and i hope the crack doesn't migrate of catastrophically fail in the process.

Has anyone heard this common crack is a death sentence?
Does anyone know is this crack common on the 1fz?
Do they tend to grow?

When i found this rust free, spent its life in a California desert environment beautiful example of an 80 with 300k (of course she needed work) the PO was open and honest about the PHH going on a hot day in august of 2017 and her over heating. I knew this probably meant i would need major engine work down the road. However, when i got her and did a complete cooling system refresh including every hose on the 80, along with everything on MUD i could find to PM i was blown away with the compression numbers which gave me hope she was better off than i thought.

If anyone thinks this is a bad idea please chime in and i may just get a factory short block and get the head redone. I am between Sacramento and San Francisco, i have heard good things about Valley Hybrids (George) and Yota 1 (Nick) for engine machine work for the head or to just bring the truck to them. Any other suggestions on people in the area?

I built my 3rz in my 1998 Tacoma through LC Engineering and really enjoyed the experience. Same deal with the 1FZ? Follow the FSM and with an new short block should be straight forward?

Ill be posting a link to this thread from the cracked block thread

Cracked Block 1FZ-FE

Last year I noticed a crack in the engine block of my 94 FZJ80, just below a driver's side freeze plug. It's an almost identical issue to the one noted here: Leaking Freeze Plug The above thread fizzled out with no real solution so I figured I would start a dedicated thread to this issue. If...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks Mud

 

[BILT4ME]

Nice!

Some have suggested Cracked Block 1FZ-FE bars stop leak. Im not knowlegebale in bottle repair though i have heard many great success stories.

I would like to keep driving and enjoying her until the engine is done, and i hope the crack doesn't migrate of catastrophically fail in the process.

Has anyone heard this common crack is a death sentence?
Does anyone know is this crack common on the 1fz?
Do they tend to grow?

When i found this rust free, spent its life in a California desert environment beautiful example of an 80 with 300k (of course she needed work) the PO was open and honest about the PHH going on a hot day in august of 2017 and her over heating. I knew this probably meant i would need major engine work down the road. However, when i got her and did a complete cooling system refresh including every hose on the 80, along with everything on MUD i could find to PM i was blown away with the compression numbers which gave me hope she was better off than i thought.

If anyone thinks this is a bad idea please chime in and i may just get a factory short block and get the head redone. I am between Sacramento and San Francisco, i have heard good things about Valley Hybrids (George) and Yota 1 (Nick) for engine machine work for the head or to just bring the truck to them. Any other suggestions on people in the area?

I built my 3rz in my 1998 Tacoma through LC Engineering and really enjoyed the experience. Same deal with the 1FZ? Follow the FSM and with an new short block should be straight forward?

Ill be posting a link to this thread from the cracked block thread

Cracked Block 1FZ-FE

Last year I noticed a crack in the engine block of my 94 FZJ80, just below a driver's side freeze plug. It's an almost identical issue to the one noted here: Leaking Freeze Plug The above thread fizzled out with no real solution so I figured I would start a dedicated thread to this issue. If...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks Mud

There have not been any "catastrophic failures" from what I have read on here, but I have seen a few of these cracked block threads.

I would follow what I suggested first and see how it plays out before I would do the Bars Leaks. If it starts weeping, then do the bottle of Bars-Leaks.

I would absolutely use Bars Leaks brand based on something I saw first-hand.
Cousin was operating a D6(?) Cat and ran a 4" tree branch directly through the radiator. It went in the front, and out the back and stopped the cooling fan. The company owner came out with a saw in hand. They sawed off the branch in front of and behind the radiator as close as they could to the radiator. Then poured in 2 bottles of Bars-Leaks. That Cat ran like that for 2 more weeks of 12 hour days until the new radiator came in. Didn't leak at all.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

There have not been any "catastrophic failures" from what I have read on here, but I have seen a few of these cracked block threads.

I would follow what I suggested first and see how it plays out before I would do the Bars Leaks. If it starts weeping, then do the bottle of Bars-Leaks.

I would absolutely use Bars Leaks brand based on something I saw first-hand.
Cousin was operating a D6(?) Cat and ran a 4" tree branch directly through the radiator. It went in the front, and out the back and stopped the cooling fan. The company owner came out with a saw in hand. They sawed off the branch in front of and behind the radiator as close as they could to the radiator. Then poured in 2 bottles of Bars-Leaks. That Cat ran like that for 2 more weeks of 12 hour days until the new radiator came in. Didn't leak at all.

That's a super cool story.

Thanks, I'll work on him painting a freeze plug from the dealer.

 

[SNLC]

If you are curious what it takes, full new engine build here.

Builds - 1993 refreshed (now gone) and 1995 build up with new OEM engine

Many things going on and done. Old vs new Rear heater delete and it was soooooo crusty under everything I had to give it a clean. Cheers

forum.ih8mud.com

Cheers