Oil filter cap sneak peak
- Thread starter bjowett
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Guess I was thinking this is what is there already and looked like a magnet in the bolt. Obviously haven't had to change my own oil yet. 
Socket Head Drain and Fill Plugs
Socket Head Drain and Fill Plugs
Question... If you put on a Fumoto valve with a short nipple, would the socket still clear it?
bjowett
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- Thread starter
- #28
Good question. Many reasons... But the most important reason is to match the lifespan of the cap. The stock bypass, the two parts pictured front right, is an inexpensive disc spring and pop off disc valve. I suspect Toyota knows the caps will be replaced, so they saved money here. This very coil spring and piston valve is a Toyota design utilized as a blowoff/recycle valve for the oil pump and an oil cooler bypass for many Toyotas, including the URJ200... So IMO it is just as appropriate to use it to bypass the oil filter precisely and only when needed... and for the life of the vehicle.
Looking forward to mine arriving tomorrow! Thanks!
Dude! That is really cool! I'll be purchasing one as soon as my service agreement on my LX expires and I start doing my own oil changes again! Very nice!
First observation is this is extremely well made! Will share any info and photos from the upcoming oil change in a couple of weeks.
i'd say 10-20 hp easily - mate that with a yeti sticker and you're golden
OK everyone, here's a quick summary of the oil filter cap installation...
First, removal of the ARB front skid (quite heavy / cumbersome to maneuver during oil change as others have posted) was aided by my knee - helps removal and install quite a bit :
Then, while not info pertaining to the cap itself, the ARB drain pan works quite well and if you are only changing the oil, but not the filter, you don't need to remove any of the ARB skids (i always kind of wondered about this so am sharing here):
Next, once the oil has drained, you may want to wipe off the ARB skid ramp if you have any OCD tendencies:
Then, the oil cap pre & post assembly and with the filter:
Next, prep your oil filter housing, hand tighten, and torque to 18 ft lbs:
With the fumoto on the oil filter cap, you'll no longer need the supplied small o-ring you'll get with your replacement filter (nor will you need the awkward drain insert plug!) - I used the TRD Pro filter in my oil change.
I now have fumoto's on both the oil pan and with @bjowett oil filter cap. I don't use the fumoto nib option where you can attach a drain hose, but I didn't feel this was necessary. For those do-it-yourself types out there using ramps, etc. you'll likely get splatter from both the pan and filter, but I always use a drop cloth and the splatter was not an issue. Again, for those OCD types, the drain hose option will help keep everything neat and clean, but it is not necessary IMO.
The longest part of the whole process is definitely waiting for the oil to drain - with this setup, you'll be in and out in less than 30 mins.
Other tips:
1) Other LC200 oil change details not covered here: Oil & Filter Change for LC200
2) Resetting your oil service change reminder: "Oil Maintenance Required" Warning...how to disable
Edit - I'm wrote this up after a recent wash & wax, so ignore all the filth in these photos - I'll be tackling that during the next wash!
First, removal of the ARB front skid (quite heavy / cumbersome to maneuver during oil change as others have posted) was aided by my knee - helps removal and install quite a bit
:
Then, while not info pertaining to the cap itself, the ARB drain pan works quite well and if you are only changing the oil, but not the filter, you don't need to remove any of the ARB skids (i always kind of wondered about this so am sharing here):
Next, once the oil has drained, you may want to wipe off the ARB skid ramp if you have any OCD tendencies:
Then, the oil cap pre & post assembly and with the filter:
Next, prep your oil filter housing, hand tighten, and torque to 18 ft lbs:
With the fumoto on the oil filter cap, you'll no longer need the supplied small o-ring you'll get with your replacement filter (nor will you need the awkward drain insert plug!) - I used the TRD Pro filter in my oil change.
I now have fumoto's on both the oil pan and with @bjowett oil filter cap. I don't use the fumoto nib option where you can attach a drain hose, but I didn't feel this was necessary. For those do-it-yourself types out there using ramps, etc. you'll likely get splatter from both the pan and filter, but I always use a drop cloth and the splatter was not an issue. Again, for those OCD types, the drain hose option will help keep everything neat and clean, but it is not necessary IMO.
The longest part of the whole process is definitely waiting for the oil to drain - with this setup, you'll be in and out in less than 30 mins.
Other tips:
1) Other LC200 oil change details not covered here: Oil & Filter Change for LC200
2) Resetting your oil service change reminder: "Oil Maintenance Required" Warning...how to disable
Edit - I'm wrote this up after a recent wash & wax, so ignore all the filth in these photos - I'll be tackling that during the next wash!
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