Oil Cooler Leak Repair guide for 2UZFE 100 series (LC or LX) (1 Viewer)

[OEMGUY0720]

Please feel free to add anything that I may have missed.

How the leak would look like if the oil cooler seal has failed:

The Red arrow is pointing where the oil cooler o-ring seal is located, this is a two-piece assembly consisting of the oil cooler itself and the crossover pipe (or whatever you may call it) going to the engine block.

Step #1: Remove the front skid plate.
Step #2: Remove the Oil Filter.
Step #3: Remove the securing bolt in the center of the oil cooler housing using a 32mm socket:

Make sure not to lose that flat washer indicated in the picture.

Step #4: I removed the bracket with two bolts (red arrow) attaching to the AC Compressor, this is to create more space and disconnect it from the crossover bracket (blue arrow).

Before clamping the two hoses, make a best judgment if they are still flexible enough because otherwise I would recommend to get them replaced while at it (mine was still good a 260k miles so it did not warrant a replacement).

Step # 5: Loosen and slide the coolant hose clamps using a clamp pliers. Clamp the coolant hoses (green arrow) and prepare a catch bucket preferably a wide one to minimize the coolant mess on the floor.

Red plastic hose clamp and Hose clamp pliers links.

Step #6: Remove the 2 bolts (long and short - not interchangeable) and a nut (three red arrows) for the crossover pipe holding the figure-8 seal.

Traces of the oil leak illustrated by the three green arrows.
Before and after: Make sure to clean the surface mate area and where the leak was.

Step # 7: You are now clear to take the the two components down for inspection and servicing.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Continue..
Step #8: Be careful removing the main oil cooler o-ring seal and the crossover figure-8 seal.

Step #9: Clean the mating surfaces - I wet sanded them using 100 grit.

Step #10: Apply dielectric grease on the new rubber seals to reduce the risk of pinching when you put them back together. This also creates a mini adhesive reaction to the surface so it doesn’t fall off during assembly.

Optional: you can clean the components if you wish to.

Now that everything is prep’d, new seals are in, last step is to put them back in again in the correct order.

I hope this simple walkthrough helps you.

 

[Tmparker05]

Thank you for your post, ill be saving this for future use.

 

[willmtaylor]

Excellent write up. Thank you for taking the time to do this.

How long would you estimate this took you to swap out?

How would you rate the difficulty?

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Continue:

Tools I used:
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 32mm socket (1/2” drive)
• flexible head 3/8” ratchet (critical)
• 3/8 extensions
• 1/2” breaker bar
• hose clamps
• flexible hose clamp plier
• box cutter to pick the brittle and flat seals
• dielectric grease
• sand paper
• bucket
• shop towels
• coolant to top off of what was lost during the components pull down.

• Oil Cooler o-ring seal - OEM part # 90301-67004.
• Oil-Coolant crossover figure-8 seal - OEM part # 15692-50020.

Labor was 3-4 hours give or take..

 

[willmtaylor]

@Trunk Monkey , this ought to be pinned in the FAQ, IMHO.

 

[McNalty]

My 99 LX was a 30mm on the oil filter nut.

 

[cmw]

Another thank you

 

[cbbr]

Very helpful to me - one of the hoses on mine needs to be replaced. I'm going to order the gaskets and replace them while I have everything apart anyway. Thanks!

 

[Patassa]

Continue..
Step #8: Be careful removing the main oil cooler o-ring seal and the crossover figure-8 seal.
View attachment 3260035

Step #9: Clean the mating surfaces - I wet sanded them using 100 grit.View attachment 3260037View attachment 3260038

Step #10: Apply dielectric grease on the new rubber seals to reduce the risk of pinching when you put them back together. This also creates a mini adhesive reaction to the surface so it doesn’t fall off during assembly.
View attachment 3260042
View attachment 3260043
Optional: you can clean the components if you wish to.
View attachment 3260044

Now that everything is prep’d, new seals are in, last step is to put them back in again in the correct order.
View attachment 3260047

I hope this simple walkthrough helps you.

Thanks for the post, I have this leak also and plan to address it at my next timing belt change.

 

[Patron100LC]

Thanks for this @OEMGUY0720 . I did my steering rack a little while ago and had needed o-rings for this job as well, but the bolt inside the filter housing (32mm?) didn't want to budge.

Not sure if the socket I had wasn't grabbing well enough, or the bolt was too tight, I just didn't want to risk any damage so I left it and moved on with the rest of the rack job.
Too bad, since without the rack in place the access is much improved, but it's my daily and couldn't risk a bigger job bc of a stupid bolt.

Any advise on super tight bolt? Any specific socket needed?

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Thanks for this @OEMGUY0720 . I did my steering rack a little while ago and had needed o-rings for this job as well, but the bolt inside the filter housing (32mm?) didn't want to budge.

Not sure if the socket I had wasn't grabbing well enough, or the bolt was too tight, I just didn't want to risk any damage so I left it and moved on with the rest of the rack job.
Too bad, since without the rack in place the access is much improved, but it's my daily and couldn't risk a bigger job bc of a stupid bolt.

Any advise on super tight bolt? Any specific socket needed?

That’s good you didn’t forced it, that oil filter nut can be really stubborn and the last thing you want is damage it. What I used is an 8-point type of socket like this:

Before you turn to break loose the nut, triple check the socket is seated perfectly balanced on all sides so as to avoid damaging the nut’s edges. It was the breaker bar that helped me loosen this, it’s all about the right leverage. You may to have to turn your body/arm in a way to get the best possible leverage.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Quick update. Just realized it has been a year and 8,000 miles after the service, still dry as a bone.

 

[Zuberg]

Quick update. Just realized it has been a year and 8,000 miles after the service, still dry as a bone.

Thanks for this writeup. Going to do this while I swap out the steering rack bushings and timing belt.

Doesn't need to be replaced unless damaged, but if anyone needs it, the part number for the oil relief valve (32mm piece) is:

15695-50010

 

[Biga27110]

I believe I have this leak. You saved me thank you.

 

[AARONTLC]

That’s good you didn’t forced it, that oil filter nut can be really stubborn and the last thing you want is damage it. What I used is an 8-point type of socket like this:

View attachment 3513190
Before you turn to break loose the nut, triple check the socket is seated perfectly balanced on all sides so as to avoid damaging the nut’s edges. It was the breaker bar that helped me loosen this, it’s all about the right leverage. You may to have to turn your body/arm in a way to get the best possible leverage.

I purchased a cheap socket from AutoZone and put it on the belt sander to remove the lip at the end of the socket so it had max engagement on the hex portion of the oil filter mount.

 

[Biga27110]

Ugh I finished everything and the lower coolant hose going into the cooler is leaking coolant pretty bad. Looks like the stock clamp is mangled a bit. Does anyone know the size so I can put a worm gear hose clamp on it until I can make it to the dealership for parts?

 

[McNalty]

Ugh I finished everything and the lower coolant hose going into the cooler is leaking coolant pretty bad. Looks like the stock clamp is mangled a bit. Does anyone know the size so I can put a worm gear hose clamp on it until I can make it to the dealership for parts?

Feel your pain, want to say the previous owner of mine had a 3/8 hose clamp on, I replaced it with a factory clamp and had no issues. I would of like to replace the hose out of the engine block but my hands were not nimble or small enough to negotiate that problem.

 

[Biga27110]

Feel your pain, want to say the previous owner of mine had a 3/8 hose clamp on, I replaced it with a factory clamp and had no issues. I would of like to replace the hose out of the engine block but my hands were not nimble or small enough to negotiate that problem.

I found a universal 3/4" OD worm gear clamp that stopped the leak. I want to replace the hose as well but its so hard to reach. Does anyone know how to do it?

 

[AARONTLC]

This is a good chance to do some relatively inexpensive preventative maintenance.

1. Purchase Hose #1 (15777-50030).
2. Purchase Hose #2 (16282-50040).
3. Purchase 4 new clamps (90467-20011).
4. Purchase new or reuse coolant.
5. If you can wait to do an oil change at the same time then purchase the gasket 15710B (90301-67004) super cheap.

Remove the shield from underneath and then drain your radiator.

If you can wait to do an oil change at the same time then drain the oil, remove the filter, use an appropriate socket to remove 15690 this has a torque spec. (If you want it I will reply when I get home.) Like I said, If you can wait this may save you from having to purchase the #2 hose.

Look at removing the #2 (16282-50040) hose to drain more since it is to the front of the engine. The hose I have labeled #2 is really short so it could be difficult to remove if it is old and stiff. I would have a new one on hand its pretty cheap.

Then with some patience, crawl under the Cruiser with a variety of needle nose, picks, and any long reach pliers and work that upper clamp off. Once you have the clamp turned around and slid down then you can either use some hose pliers to loosen or carefully use a razor blade to score the hose and remove it. Be prepared for "the rest" of the coolant to come out. (It can be done!)

Install new hoses with the 4 new clamps. Going on is way easier than coming off.

I am sure some of the smarter people will point out something as well. Good luck!