Oil change - Removing oil filter before oil drain

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Newbie question... Planning on first oil change on my 03 LX470. Looks like the oil filter access is from under the vehicle, will removing the filter first cause spill? Do you guys drain the oil before replacing the filter?

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(Edit)In addition to an answer to my question, I got a nice oil change 101 from this post.

Oil Change 101:
1. Warm engine before oil change
2. Remove oil filler cap
3. Put your catch pan under the drain plug
4. Remove oil pan drain plug and let all oil drain out until you have a very slow drip.
5. Replace drain plug using new plug gasket. Torque to spec. Wipe clean.
6. Move catch pan under oil filter
6b. (100 specific) Punch a hole at the bottom (well really the top) of the filter to drain then remove
7. Remove oil filter and pour contents into catch pan.
8. Make sure the old gasket came off with the old filter, and wipe off surface where the gasket seats. Lube new oil filter gasket with a thin coat of new oil. Install new oil filter. Tighten as much as possible by hand. No wrenches.
9. Pour in new oil. Check oil level.
10. Start engine, check for leaks at the drain plug and filter.
11. Shut off engine, wait 15 minutes or so and check oil level. Add more oil if necessary, until proper level is indicated on the dip stick.
 
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Newbie question... Planning on first oil change on my 03 LX470. Looks like the oil filter access is from under the vehicle, will removing the filter first cause spill? Do you guys drain the oil before replacing the filter?

Removing the filter always causes oil spillage as the oil queued up for the filter will drain out when it is removed. Plus there's whats in the filter itself. Put a pan under the filter and you'll catch the run off.

In short, it doesn't matter if you drain the oil first or replace the filter first.

I drain then replace the filter.
 
This is what I do:
Oil Change 101:
1. Remove oil pan drain plug
2. Remove oil filter
3. Remove oil filler cap
4. Once all oil is drained, replace drain plug, using new plug gasket
5. Install new oil filter, with gasket lubbed with some new oil. Make sure the old gasket came off with the old filter, and wipe off surface where the gasket seats. I didn't check once on my Honda accord, and it made a big mess when I started the car.
6. Pour in new oil. Check oil level.
7. Start engine, check for leaks at the drain plug and filter.
8. Shut off engine, and check oil level. Add more oil if necessary, until proper level is indicated on the dip stick.

Oh, and I always have the engine warm when I drain the oil.

Sent from my Thunderbonner using IH8MUD
 
To add to the above post, I agree that having the engine warm helps the oil flow and makes the process a bit quicker. What I have found it that if you remove the plug and open the fill cap, most of the oil exits with no mess, given you are catching it in a basin and not letting it run down the drive. Once the oil stops flowing, I then remove the filter and usually only get a few drops, but even that is minimal.
 
I have always drained the oil pan first then the oil filter. If you keep the oil fill cap on the engine the oil will pour out slower. Making it less like to splash out and make a mess. Out of all the vehicles I have ever owner the 100 Series is by far the easiest and least messy car to perform an oil change on. The oil filter location has a little metal diverter on it that directs the oil away from the skid plates right into your oil catch basin. Pretty cool little piece of metal, all cars and trucks should have one of these. Also go to Home Depot and get one of their large black plastic cement mixer containers. It’s about 2ft by 3ft and 12inches tall. Put your oil catch basin inside this and you will be good to go.
 
I have always drained the oil pan first then the oil filter. If you keep the oil fill cap on the engine the oil will pour out slower. Making it less like to splash out and make a mess. Out of all the vehicles I have ever owner the 100 Series is by far the easiest and least messy car to perform an oil change on. The oil filter location has a little metal diverter on it that directs the oil away from the skid plates right into your oil catch basin. Pretty cool little piece of metal, all cars and trucks should have one of these. Also go to Home Depot and get one of their large black plastic cement mixer containers. It’s about 2ft by 3ft and 12inches tall. Put your oil catch basin inside this and you will be good to go.
I do filter first, then pan. You can get a small piece of aluminum flashing, shove it up under the little filter gutter thing, and bend it to pretty much not lose a drop.

Steve
 
Punch the bottom (well really the top) of the filter to drain then remove.
 
To add to the above post, I agree that having the engine warm helps the oil flow and makes the process a bit quicker.

Not only that, but with it warm, any particulate is suspended in the freshly agitated oil, so you're draining it out instead of leaving it sitting where it's settled.
 
Punch the bottom (well really the top) of the filter to drain then remove.

Don't know why I never thought of it before but punching a hole in the filter before removing is an excellent thought. Would allow for more control of oil rather than getting it all over everything by just removing and then panic city with it running out on floor and everywhere else.

Excellent and simple solution. Sometimes the most obvious is the hardest to grasp.
 
How many liters of oil does it have?
 
This is what I do:
Oil Change 101:
1. Put your catch pan under the drain plug
2. Remove oil filler cap
3. Remove oil pan drain plug and let all oil drain out until you have a very slow drip.
4. Replace drain plug using new plug gasket. Torque to spec. Wipe clean.
5. Move catch pan under oil filter
6. Remove oil filter and pour contents into catch pan.
7. Make sure the old gasket came off with the old filter, and wipe off surface where the gasket seats. Lube new oil filter gasket with a thin coat of new oil. Install new oil filter. Tighten as much as possible by hand. No wrenches.
6. Pour in new oil. Check oil level.
7. Start engine, check for leaks at the drain plug and filter.
8. Shut off engine, wait 15 minutes or so and check oil level. Add more oil if necessary, until proper level is indicated on the dip stick.

Oh, and I always have the engine warm when I drain the oil.

I modified slightly. This is how I do it. This prevents the big messes. No need to punch a hole in the filter. That's overly complicated.

My trucks seem to hold about 7.25 or 7.5 quarts
 
Thanks guys, I got my answer and also got a nice oil change 101 from this post, I also modified it a little.

Oil Change 101:
1. Warm engine before oil change
2. Remove oil filler cap
3. Put your catch pan under the drain plug
4. Remove oil pan drain plug and let all oil drain out until you have a very slow drip.
5. Replace drain plug using new plug gasket. Torque to spec. Wipe clean.
6. Move catch pan under oil filter
6b. (100 specific) Punch a hole at the bottom (well really the top) of the filter to drain then remove
7. Remove oil filter and pour contents into catch pan.
8. Make sure the old gasket came off with the old filter, and wipe off surface where the gasket seats. Lube new oil filter gasket with a thin coat of new oil. Install new oil filter. Tighten as much as possible by hand. No wrenches.
9. Pour in new oil. Check oil level.
10. Start engine, check for leaks at the drain plug and filter.
11. Shut off engine, wait 15 minutes or so and check oil level. Add more oil if necessary, until proper level is indicated on the dip stick.
 
I warm engine and try and position vehicle so majority of fluid runs into pan...

I removed filler cap to allow air to enter from top and help with flow

I open valve (I replaced plug with ball valve) and let oil drain into pan

I close ball valve and wipe any oil from it and surrounding areas

When none is dripping...I loosen front filter and have catch pan under where it will come out....there is a oil deflector built in to help it drain .....if done right you can remove filter with little to no spillage and set it directly in pan to drain on its own.

I take clean rag and wipe around where new filter gasket will seat.....then get clean oil and rub on gasket with finger....fill filter 75% with clean oil and reattach...hand tightening until I cant turn it any more by hand only.

I refill to just shy of stated required amount....let settle...look for leaks around filter and ball valve...if none....I start engine and let it run for 1 minute to cycle oil and then turn off.

Recheck oil level and continue filling until reaches FULL line. Replace oil filler cap.

Crank vehicle and let run until warm....continuously checking underneath for any drips around oil pan plug/valve or oil filter. Be careful sticking hands up around oil filter with engine running as fan is not far away.

If no leaks and after wiping and looking with flashlight all seems good...I put filter wrench on and give a 1/4 turn to snug up...recheck for leaks.

I let run while I bolt back up skid plate access port.....note mileage and date when changed and start cleaning up tools and dispose of empty containers and such.

Done.
 
No need to punch a hole in the filter. That's overly complicated.

A rubber mallet and a flat-head screwdriver accomplishes this in about 3 seconds. Punch the hole in the end of the filter, not on the side. It puts less torque on the threaded fitting the filter screws onto.
 
The crankcase is vented...You are kidding yourself if you believe by removing the oil cap produces faster drains.:rolleyes:

You're probably right. And the vent path pulls filtered air. But, I've always had the habit of pulling the cap first, just makes my tiny OCD brain feel better.
 
I think we should run a comparison. One with oil cap off and the others ON. See which finishes first? No?

You're probably right. And the vent path pulls filtered air. But, I've always had the habit of pulling the cap first, just makes my tiny OCD brain feel better.
 
I remove the filter while the oil is draining from the oil pan (after most of it has drained). I find that when I crack the filter, more oil suddenly exits the oil pan (this is with the fill cap removed, using two oil pans). I'd recommend two oil pans, as you can also drain both front/rear diff fluids at the same time.
 
The crankcase is vented...You are kidding yourself if you believe by removing the oil cap produces faster drains.:rolleyes:
LOL maybe so but that is way I was taught and see no reason to stop....also is good reminder that oil is draining from vehicle so nobody decides to start it up and move it. LOL
 
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