Oil change check list (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 31, 2020
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Location
Pearland Texas USA
Preparing to do my first oil change on my "new to me" 2011. Looking for tips and pointers.

Land Cruiser details:
200 Series, 2011, 5.7 liter, Texas USA
All factory original, one owner. Purchased used in November 2020
50,000 miles (So basically new).
Excellent condition in, out and under. Got lucky on this find! I'm a very proud pappa.

My experience:
Previously owned a 2002 4Runner, 2006 Tundra, 2006 Sequoia. Changed oil on all and did my own maintenance. Never had any issues with any of those previous Yodas. I have some mechanical experience working on cars, doing it since I was a kid, 45 years old now. My dad was a diesel mechanic.

Working on getting tools and materials together now. This is what I have so far:
(1) Toyota oil - 0W-20 (Owner's manual calls for 7.9 quarts with filter)
(2) Toyota filter - got both TRD and Toyota standard filter for 5.7l
(3) Filter removal tool for 5.7l
(4) Ratchets and sockets
(5) Oil collection pan
(6) Oil filter draining tool

After I get this first one behind me, I'm looking to do some upgrades to make it a little easier on future changes.

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You can add to the list - grease the drive shafts.
 
You could also add the easy drain valve for the oil pan and custom filter housing to make future changes easier. They should be back in stock soon. This would make the tools you just bought useless though. Billet Oil Cap for filter - https://jowettperformance.com/products/coming-soon-billet-oil-cap-for-filter

 
You could also add the easy drain valve for the oil pan and custom filter housing to make future changes easier. They should be back in stock soon. This would make the tools you just bought useless though. Billet Oil Cap for filter - https://jowettperformance.com/products/coming-soon-billet-oil-cap-for-filter

Yes. I've been looking at those items. The Jowett oil cap is still out of stock. I think it's worth buying if you plan on always changing your own oil. I can always store the items I got now for emergencies if I have to revert back to the original set-up. Great advice, thanks.

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Get a handful of drain plug gaskets. Toyota uses a plastic lined aluminum washer that seals better than copper ones.

I got that drain hose and hated it. Very slow, and the oil clings to it making cleaning that part necessary or you have a mess wherever you store it. Whereas you just toss the drain tool that comes with the new filter, but there is a small trick to using it and not making a mess.

The trick: after you remove the filter cap drain plug, take that old oring and snap it into the groove on the drain tool, then insert it. Don’t insert the drain tool with the oring already in the groove on the filter housing cap. It’ll take firm pressure to insert.. I use both thumbs. Then just use a screwdriver in the end to pry it out after it is done draining. Done this way there will be very little mess, it drains super quick, and you just throw away all the messy stuff.
 
Don’t get filters on amazon. Too many fakes.
Yes, this ^. They're pretty much just as cheap to buy directly from the dealer or from Walmart, and then you're guaranteed to avoid knockoffs.

Also, @CruiserEd2011, I bought the exact same oil filter drain tool that you listed. It worked fine, as intended, but I don't think I'll use it again. I just don't like keeping tools around that will have a tendency to leak used car oil everywhere after their first use (i.e., while in storage). I think the plastic drain tool that comes "free" with each Toyota filter is sufficient.

Instead of getting the Jowett filter housing and easy drain plug, I just purchased the equivalent EZ-drain plug (parent company) directly from Amazon, but with a nub to make it easier to connect a hose to it if I feel like it:
Amazon product ASIN B00HTV2M90
I just don't see the Jowett housing as being necessary, and if for some reason I ever need someone else to change my oil, they wouldn't know what to do with the Jowett housing. The stock filter housing works fine. I actually swapped out my plastic filter housing for Toyota's aluminum version.
 
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But yeah, otherwise your list looks correct. A couple other notes:
  1. To drain the oil pan, there is a small access panel on the passenger side.
  2. To drain and replace the filter, you have to remove the entire driver's side half of the skid plate.

Here's some pics from when I added the EZ-drain and aluminum housing a couple weeks ago:
Oil change today.

Swapped the plastic filter holder with aluminum. Had to move the inner the old center filter support to the new housing, since the new one is too short (shorter one intended for Venza).

Also replaced oil drain bolt with EZ drain valve. Still had reasonable clearance between valve and skid plate.

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Yes, this ^. They're pretty much just as cheap to buy directly from the dealer or from Walmart, and then you're guaranteed to avoid knockoffs.

Also, @CruiserEd2011, I bought the exact same oil filter drain tool that you listed. It worked fine, as intended, but I don't think I'll use it again. I just don't like keeping tools around that will have a tendency to leak used car oil everywhere after their first use (i.e., while in storage). I think the plastic drain tool that comes "free" with each Toyota filter is sufficient.

Instead of getting the Jowett filter housing and easy drain plug, I just purchased the equivalent EZ-drain plug (parent company) directly from Amazon, but with a nub to make it easier to connect a hose to it if I feel like it:
Amazon product ASIN B00HTV2M90
I just don't see the Jowett housing as being necessary, and if for some reason I ever need someone else to change my oil, they wouldn't know what to do with the Jowett housing. The stock filter housing works fine. I actually swapped out my plastic filter housing for Toyota's aluminum version.
Great advice, thank you. Do you have the aluminum filter housing stock number? I got my oil filters, oil pan drain plug and drain plug gasket from McGeorge Toyota in Virginia. I buy most parts online and found this dealer has the best prices. Have to pay for shipping, but it's worth knowing I'm getting genuine parts. I looked up the aluminum housings that I thought would fit my 5.7L but when I put it in my cart it said it's not a match for a 2011 Land Cruiser...

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The aluminum housing is a factory part for the Venza and fits the land cruiser like it was made for it.
 
The aluminum housing is a factory part for the Venza and fits the land cruiser like it was made for it.

I too purchased a Venza housing but have not yet installed it on my LX. I believe that you have to swap out the inside part (perforated tube) to make it work.
 
I too purchased a Venza housing but have not yet installed it on my LX. I believe that you have to swap out the inside part (perforated tube) to make it work.
Correct, you need to swap the perforated tube from your land cruiser filter housing to the Venza filter housing.
 
Yes, that's the correct part number. I purchased 15620-31060, it will show as "not compatible". You just have to swap out the center part like the others said. You do that by bending the 2 little tabs up (tabs are on the inside, near the bottom, part of the perforated tube) with a flathead screwdriver so that you can push the entire perforated tube down and turn it to release and remove it. Then do the opposite to place the old perforated tube into the new housing (and bend the tabs back down to keep it in place).
 
Any thoughts on the TRD oil filter versus the regular Toyota filter? I ordered them both because I wasn't sure if the TRD comes with orings/gaskets and filter drain tool. It seems the TRD would hold up better just by the construction looks of it...

Is anyone using the TRD filter in their 200?
 
I've used the TRD filter for many years. As you said, it seems to be better quality. It's more costy, but not exorbitant.
 
The synthetic media is supposed to do a better job as well, but I’m not sure that it makes a realistic difference.

But I still use them.. not like they break the bank.
 
Good info on the Venza metal filter housing, I'l have to put that on the list.
 
I do my own oil changes and always pause before tightening that oil sump drain bolt so as to not over-tighten or strip it.
So I was looking at the EZ oil drain plug information; seriously considering getting one first for the oil pan.
Then I stumbled on to the write-up below.
It looks like both the Fumoto and EZ Oil drain valves have their threaded end protruding into the oil pan.
This supposedly prevents all the oil from draining causing a sludge build-up and the leaving of metal fragments in the oil pan.
Any thoughts on this?
REF:
Warning -- Oil Drain Valves (EZ-Drain & Fumoto)
 
I do my own oil changes and always pause before tightening that oil sump drain bolt so as to not over-tighten or strip it.
So I was looking at the EZ oil drain plug information; seriously considering getting one first for the oil pan.
Then I stumbled on to the write-up below.
It looks like both the Fumoto and EZ Oil drain valves have their threaded end protruding into the oil pan.
This supposedly prevents all the oil from draining causing a sludge build-up and the leaving of metal fragments in the oil pan.
Any thoughts on this?
REF:
Warning -- Oil Drain Valves (EZ-Drain & Fumoto)
Yep. That, and the remote but increased risk of snapping the whole thing off on a rock compared to the regular hex drain plug are why I avoid them. With some nitrile gloves and a couple shop towels there is practically zero mess anyway.
 

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