Was the head R/R recently as in just before this problem started?
Build Off to a Good Start. My '74 40 Series
- Thread starter TwelveGravity
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- #242
I have never had the head off in the 1.5 years I have owned it. When I bought it from the PO, he stated the engine was rebuilt 10 +/- years ago. He had hardly driven it at all since.
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- #243
It doesn't look like that port goes down to the head gasket, it channels over toward cyl 5. A paperclip stops about 3/4" in, but I bent a hook on the end of the paperclip and can catch the edge of the port.
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- #245
Here's another angle.
If you do an image search, you will see the teardrop shaped hole that delivers the oil from the cam journal galley to the head bolt. A circuitous route for sure.
Thinking about this for a minute more, you’re going to need a full head service. That head is going to smoke like a mofo once it actually has oil if the seals and guides have been run dry that long.
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- #248
Thanks for the recommendation Mark.Thinking about this for a minute more, you’re going to need a full head service. That head is going to smoke like a mofo once it actually has oil if the seals and guides have been run dry that long.
So get a 100' roll of 3/8 poly rope. Put a cylinder at bottom dead center, feed in the rope threw a spark plug hole, don't put it all in. Pull on the fan blade in order to put some compression on the rope. Compress the valve springs, remove the keepers - now wiggle the valve stems and see how loose they are. No oil for very long they will be very loose.
PSA: I sell head gasket sets.
This is how you change the valve seals without pulling the head. Did it on the 3FE. There's also a way to do it with shop air pressurizing the cylinder and holding the valves up, but I like the rope trick better as there's less to go wrong. If you pull the head for a HG replacement, obviously you can skip the rope part and just do it on the bench.
But better safe than sorry. If anything some of the squeaking could have been valve stems on guides. Ugh.
Tried to get caught up here so I'm sorry if I missed this if it was already talked about...
FWIW I had my 2F rebuilt I wasn't getting oil to the rocker assembly. I was worried about the head gasket being installed the wrong way. From my research if the head gasket is on the wrong way you'll have extra overhang at the front of the block. If the edge of the head gasket falls inline with the block/head then it might be installed correctly...I'll let other chime in if this is a good check or not. In fact the gasket sticks out far enough that I think interferes with the water pump, again I'll let others chime in if this is indeed true.
I did find my issue and it had to do with the rocker shaft support with the oil port was in the wrong spot. I feel like given the amount of time you have been driving around this is probably lined up correctly but maybe it's clogged since you mentioned you found some weird debris?
FWIW I had my 2F rebuilt I wasn't getting oil to the rocker assembly. I was worried about the head gasket being installed the wrong way. From my research if the head gasket is on the wrong way you'll have extra overhang at the front of the block. If the edge of the head gasket falls inline with the block/head then it might be installed correctly...I'll let other chime in if this is a good check or not. In fact the gasket sticks out far enough that I think interferes with the water pump, again I'll let others chime in if this is indeed true.
I did find my issue and it had to do with the rocker shaft support with the oil port was in the wrong spot. I feel like given the amount of time you have been driving around this is probably lined up correctly but maybe it's clogged since you mentioned you found some weird debris?
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- #254
I could not feel any substantial gasket overhang at the end of the block. I did remove the mount you have pictured here, this was the first thing I checked to make sure a solid (non port) was installed. It was correct, but even after that, I ran the drill and didn't get any oil flow up to that point, directly out of the head.
Have you already aligned the oiling holes in the camshaft with the holes in the cam bearings?
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- #256
I have not. Thanks for the knowledge share. I'll look more into this next time I'm in the garage.
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- #257
Just read more of @bdawg23 top end lack of oil issue. As soon as I make some time I will align the oiling holes in the camshaft with the holes in the cam bearings by putting Cyl 3 or Cyl 4 at TDC and run the drill to see if the oil pump is putting out. If I get oil at this point, I'll disassemble the rocker assembly and mounts to make sure all those holes are aligned.
I have a video as well if it helps
hopefully you can get this figured out!
Not that you want to but you ca drop the oil pan without removing the engine.
Also something random, if you remove the oil filter and turn the pump does oil come out? This helped me confirm the oil pump was working.
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- #259
Today I put Cyl #4 at TDC, ran the oil pump and did not get any oil to the galley. I removed the headbolt between cylinders 4 and 5.
This angle gives a clear look at the port where the oil would flow. I ran the oil pump again to see if I would get oil into the head bolt cavity.
This angle gives a clear look at the port where the oil would flow. I ran the oil pump again to see if I would get oil into the head bolt cavity.
Curious what others would say here, if the engine is cranked with the starter would that also push oil up through the oil passages? Just wondering if that is a more sure fire way to know if oil is actually flowing? Maybe remove the plugs to reduce the load on the starter?