OEM Wheel Weights

[uHu]

Sorry Boys,....
Therefor the heavier the wheel and tire combo, the more fuel it takes to run it and more brakes are required to stop it.
TLC Dan

That is if you look at the wheels on their own.
Now, if those wheels are on the road and not spinning freely; you move, accellerate and brake the whole vehicle, not only the wheels. And it takes just as much effort per gram to move, whether it is rotating or moving in a straight line.
So yes, heavier wheels take more effort, but not as much as your toolbox at the back.

Isn't there a Physics Professor in here, who is used to explaining to all kinds of students? I went only up to college level.

 

[00N8]

18" Tundra 07+ TRD Aluminum Wheels - 36.4 lbs

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

I remember from cycling that 1lbs of rotational mass is similar to 4lbs of fixed or sprung weight. So going from 24lbs alloys to 40 steelies is definitely a difference. It takes moe energy to change velocity, accelerating, braking, lateral forces when turning (only slightly).

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

4) TRD 17x8 Rock Warrior Alloy +50mm offset 24lbs (less weight if you remove the fake beadlock rings. I'll weigh those later)
5) 03-05 LC 18x8. I'm looking for the weight of these wheels. Mine have tires on them still.
6) 16 x 8 steel, 40 lbs

What model and size tire do you have on the 03-05 LC 18x8? We could subtract it from the tire+wheel weight.

 

[spressomon]

I've now got a bare 18" LC wheel...I'll try to get one weighed today. I would expect it to be in line with the newer 18" Tundra alloys.

 

[hoser]

Thx Spresso.

Btw, I was a bit surprised to learn my Tundra alloys were not made in the US but rather Canada.

 

[Manhattan]

There is NO question rotating weight is different, worse, etc. than static weight. As an example of this, I swapped wheels on my mountain bike - cheap, heavy WTBs for expensive, light Mavic Crossmax - the weight reduction was significant - literally dropped just under a pound per wheel. On the very first ride, it was comical - the bike handled VERY differently. It was noticeably "quicker" turning into corners. So much so that it took about an hour to get used to it - I was over turning, e.g. turning in, turing out to correct, etc. This is absolutely attributable to the substantially lower rotating mass.

Braking and acceleration were improved but admittedly it was more difficult to notice... but it was there.

The age-old rule of thumb in cycling is: Body and bike are the same - you might as well loose 5 pounds off your gut and save the $3,000. But weight off the wheels/tires/tubes - now that's worth the money.

 

[lexi4darin]

Inertia is the term many of you are looking for in terms of start/stop extra weight.

 

[uHu]

@bicycle:
You don't turn a car by leaning over.
If you reduce the weight of the bike with 5 % because of lighter wheels, you will notice a better acceleration. That you also get easier handling because of less gyro-forces in action is not comparable to the handling of a 4-wheeled vehicle.

The most important benefit of lighter wheels on a car is: Less unsprung weight - less work for the shock absorbers - and therefore better handling.

 

[spressomon]

The 18"x8" Land Cruiser wheel as shown weighs 27-1/2lbs on a bathroom scale. This is with the center cap, small lead weight and stem.

The same size Tundra wheel I'm running weighed 29lbs without the center cap...

 

[Sandroad]

Here's a good description of the negative effects of increasing wheel weight on handling, braking, acceleration, and gas mileage. There are other articles on this site that go into more details on each of those.

Wheel Tech - Road Wheel Weights Can Affect Your Vehicle's Show...and Go

 

[pfran42]

The 18"x8" Land Cruiser wheel as shown weighs 27-1/2lbs on a bathroom scale. This is with the center cap, small lead weight and stem.

The same size Tundra wheel I'm running weighed 29lbs without the center cap...

Dan, are you thinking about swapping your current setup for these? I'm in the search for a "street" set of wheels to mount Terra Grapplers on. I am torn between the LC 16s as there are more tire size options and prices are considerable cheaper and the 18" LC wheels (like I currently run). I know the 16s are a better bargain but the 18s look so much better in my opinion. Plus, if I decide to go with a BBK, I will have to run 18s.

 

[spressomon]

Paul,

Yeah...I've got to have a wheel sale . I need to dig out and sell a set of 16's and also a set of Tundra 18's. But they have seen a fair amount of rocky trail use...so they're not virgin by any stretch of the imagination.

I picked the ^ set up (thank you OregonLC for letting me know about these) up in Portland and am going to use them for a new AT set-up (too nice to beat up on the trail set).

Not in any hurry to mount the new wheels as I have a little tread life left on my Toyo AT's...and I want to wait to see if Nitto intro's the 285-75R18 in the TG sometime this year apart of their "new sizes to come..." e-mail.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Dan, are you thinking about swapping your current setup for these? I'm in the search for a "street" set of wheels to mount Terra Grapplers on. I am torn between the LC 16s as there are more tire size options and prices are considerable cheaper and the 18" LC wheels (like I currently run). I know the 16s are a better bargain but the 18s look so much better in my opinion. Plus, if I decide to go with a BBK, I will have to run 18s.

The 18"s do look better. That being said, you should buy my extra set of 16s that are in good shape.

 

[Mall Crawler]

4) TRD 17x8 Rock Warrior Alloy +50mm offset 24lbs (less weight if you remove the fake beadlock rings. I'll weigh those later)
snip...

My shop (bathroom) scale indicates the Rock Warrior wheels are 22-lb, minus the outer ring, screws, and center cap... just the wheel.

 

[re_guderian]

Interesting... for a given width and overall diameter (say a 33" 285 tire), it appears that the tires get heavier as rim diameter gets larger. Is this because of typically increased load range counteracting less sidewall rubber resulting in a heavier tire? In general, it seems that 18" wheel and tire combos will weigh more than their comparable (width and diameter) 16" counterparts.

I was removing the tires on my new '04 to do a lift this weekend, and was surprised by how heavy they were, compared to the 16's on my 2000. The '04 has 285/60/18 Nitto TG's.

For example, a 285/65/18 Toyo Open Country AT2 on 18" alloys is 7-8 lbs heavier per corner than a 285/75/16 on 16" OEM Alloys. Throw it on Tundra 18" steelies and you're about 13 lbs heavier per corner (ish).

 

[hoser]

I've noticed this too. My best guess is because the bulk of the tire's sidewall weight is in the steel bead and chafer. Chafer is a stiff, thick piece of rubber encasing the bead. The nylon plies and thin rubber in the sidewall weigh little in comparison.

So, 18" rim tires will have an 18" diameter steel bead and chafer vs a 16" diameter of bead and chafer.

 

[00N8]

Newer TRD wheel - 31.6lbs as pictured with hub cap

 

[Chris Sandstorm FJ]

Newer TRD wheel - 31.6lbs as pictured with hub cap

I have seen these on a few Tundras lately. Do they fit with hub caps no problem on the 100 series?

I would prefer a 17" rim but these do look great.

I wonder if they are uber expensive?

 

[00N8]

Front hub caps don't fit without spacers. I got four bare rims for $350