OEM Suspension Refresh & Related Parts

[SoFloGX460]

First post!!!!

Hi All - i've had my GX for about a year now (coming from high horsepower BMW's and Bimmerpost). Purchased my 2011 GX with 186k miles and done the valley plate, radiator, OEM new TRD wheels and Falken Wildpeak AT3 tires, and all other major services/maintenance. It now sits at 200k miles.

For the last few months, i've been chasing balancing issues (road force balanced 3 times in 2 weeks) as my Wildpeaks have developed some High and Low spots in the tires. I'm either going to try and get new warrantied tires through tirerack or have my shop cut them.

With this all being said, the shop has also pointed out that my shocks have started to leak. I am looking to do a suspension refresh, and after reading a lot of threads on here, it will most likely be with new OEM shocks. I have read that the Bilstein5100's (and of the like) ride very rough. I do plan on doing more offroading, but nothing too intense. It's mainly a fun comfy truck that I drive on road trips, to work, etc.

1) Can anyone please confirm if the following P/N are correct for a 2011 without air ride? (front: 48510-69495 and rear: 48530-69566)
2) Can anyone please advise if you also changed the FCLA as well? If so, please provide part number
3) Can you please provide any other parts (and part numbers) that you'd change if doing suspension refresh?

 

[r2m]

First post!!!!

Hi All - i've had my GX for about a year now (coming from high horsepower BMW's and Bimmerpost). Purchased my 2011 GX with 186k miles and done the valley plate, radiator, OEM new TRD wheels and Falken Wildpeak AT3 tires, and all other major services/maintenance. It now sits at 200k miles.

For the last few months, i've been chasing balancing issues (road force balanced 3 times in 2 weeks) as my Wildpeaks have developed some High and Low spots in the tires. I'm either going to try and get new warrantied tires through tirerack or have my shop cut them.

With this all being said, the shop has also pointed out that my shocks have started to leak. I am looking to do a suspension refresh, and after reading a lot of threads on here, it will most likely be with new OEM shocks. I have read that the Bilstein5100's (and of the like) ride very rough. I do plan on doing more offroading, but nothing too intense. It's mainly a fun comfy truck that I drive on road trips, to work, etc.

1) Can anyone please confirm if the following P/N are correct for a 2011 without air ride? (front: 48510-69495 and rear: 48530-69566)
2) Can anyone please advise if you also changed the FCLA as well? If so, please provide part number
3) Can you please provide any other parts (and part numbers) that you'd change if doing suspension refresh?

View attachment 3919454

First, congrats on your now GX!
Second, regarding Bilstein's or any other shock, the shock needs to be the right balance for the weight of the vehicle. Duhh. Not meaning to insult your intelligence, but following through on that thought, those Bilstein5100's would probably ride like a Cadillac there had been more weight on the rig, e.g.: steel bumpers, sliders, etc.
Go to a respected off road shop, preferably one that does a lot of 4Runners and Taco's, and have them make a suggestion for how your vehicle is set up.
I have a 3" suspension lift with very heavy shocks, but with steel bumpers, sliders, skids, winch, roof top tent, and more, my GX rides better than most luxury cars!.
Just something to think about.
And good luck!

 

[SoFloGX460]

First, congrats on your now GX!
Second, regarding Bilstein's or any other shock, the shock needs to be the right balance for the weight of the vehicle. Duhh. Not meaning to insult your intelligence, but following through on that thought, those Bilstein5100's would probably ride like a Cadillac there had been more weight on the rig, e.g.: steel bumpers, sliders, etc.
Go to a respected off road shop, preferably one that does a lot of 4Runners and Taco's, and have them make a suggestion for how your vehicle is set up.
I have a 3" suspension lift with very heavy shocks, but with steel bumpers, sliders, skids, winch, roof top tent, and more, my GX rides better than most luxury cars!.
Just something to think about.
And good luck!

I don’t feel insulted at all. Please explain what you mean!

What lift do you have?

Why not just a new OEM suspension?

 

[rav8]

I don’t feel insulted at all. Please explain what you mean!

What lift do you have?

Why not just a new OEM suspension?

I replaced my OEM with 5100s but kept the stock springs/heights. I also replaced the KDSS/Sway Bar bushings on both axles as they were getting loose and noisy. I also have Firestone airbags for when I tow our travel trailer but rarely pressure them above 10 psi unless towing.

The ride is very good. Welcome to the forum.

 

[SoFloGX460]

Got my OEM suspension refresh quote from dealer… Not really interested in aftermarket as my truck mainly lives on road.

1) Is part list correct? Do I really need to do all of these parts?
2) Am I missing any parts? UCA or FLCA?
3) what else would you do?

 

[r2m]

I don’t feel insulted at all. Please explain what you mean!

What lift do you have?

Why not just a new OEM suspension?

If you go on my build thread: R²M 2013 GX 460 Overland Build
On the first page is a build list of what I had done. Suspension and everything.
So what I alluring to is, what have you done to your vehicle, have you added weight? Any bumpers, drawer system, skids, sliders, maybe a roof top tent?
As you add weight a stock suspension will sag and you'll be bouncing off the bump stops all the time.
The inverse is getting a stiff spring and shock without having a heavy rig, hence a rough ride.
Let's diverse a moment, what are your plans for your GX? If it's truly just to be a Mom's car and kept stock, go with all factory components and call it done.

 

[SoFloGX460]

If you go on my build thread: R²M 2013 GX 460 Overland Build
On the first page is a build list of what I had done. Suspension and everything.
So what I alluring to is, what have you done to your vehicle, have you added weight? Any bumpers, drawer system, skids, sliders, maybe a roof top tent?
As you add weight a stock suspension will sag and you'll be bouncing off the bump stops all the time.
The inverse is getting a stiff spring and shock without having a heavy rig, hence a rough ride.
Let's diverse a moment, what are your plans for your GX? If it's truly just to be a Mom's car and kept stock, go with all factory components and call it done.

Honestly… i’d love to lift and go crazy… but right now - i think it’s just going to be a nice daily (no more weight adding)…

will i go play in the (light) mud, grass, etc? Yes… but not all day. Its def more of a pavement truck for now…

I got rid of my e85 M4 because i kept modding and adding. Just want comfort and stock…

I also talked to my shop - they honestly said to JUST get new OEM shocks. Thoughts on this?

Is there anything related to JUST shocks that i need to get? Something about top hat?

 

[r2m]

Honestly… i’d love to lift and go crazy… but right now - i think it’s just going to be a nice daily (no more weight adding)…

will i go play in the (light) mud, grass, etc? Yes… but not all day. Its def more of a pavement truck for now…

I got rid of my e85 M4 because i kept modding and adding. Just want comfort and stock…

I also talked to my shop - they honestly said to JUST get new OEM shocks. Thoughts on this?

Is there anything related to JUST shocks that i need to get? Something about top hat?

Okay, here's my opinion, and just remember opinions are like belly buttons, everyone's got one.
For me, if in your boots:

• Get a slightly larger All-Terrain tire, just large enough so the spare still fits in the factory location, in the back.
• Get skid plates.
• Remove the side steps and get rock sliders that look like factory side steps and paint them your body color
• Trim up your front and rear bumpers a wee bit for better approach and departure angles. There's a lot of info on that here.
• For what you'll pay for an R&R factory Lexus suspension, you can upgrade to an equal suspension with UCA's that will give you more wheel travel when you do want to play in the muck.

Doing all this will get you a rig that DOES NOT look like a Mom taking their kids to violin lessons or soccer games but maintain it's mostly stock composure. As a Dad, giving it just enough attitude to feel good driving it. Still keeping it's street manners and road trip skills, while giving a little protection and peace of mind if you wonder off the tarmac that you'll not be scraping, denting, tearing something off because you had no protection.

 

[rav8]

Honestly… i’d love to lift and go crazy… but right now - i think it’s just going to be a nice daily (no more weight adding)…

will i go play in the (light) mud, grass, etc? Yes… but not all day. Its def more of a pavement truck for now…

I got rid of my e85 M4 because i kept modding and adding. Just want comfort and stock…

I also talked to my shop - they honestly said to JUST get new OEM shocks. Thoughts on this?

Is there anything related to JUST shocks that i need to get? Something about top hat?

There is truth to what @r2m is saying. Folks that have off-road opportunities nearby often regret keeping their suspension stock.

I get that you want to keep it on road mostly. I would recommend choosing your damper (Bilstein, Gabriel, KYB, Monroe, Tokico) that claims to offer the best ride. I believe Tokico made the originals but parts dealers sometimes substitute via alternative vendors with the same part number, which makes things confusing.

The hat is a wear item. I replace mine any time I replace the shock/strut. They range from Aussie Tax to OE Equivalent, just make sure you have your quantity right.

As for your list...you are not likely to get an answer without sending someone payment for the research (and I actually enjoy doing that stuff). It is missing some stuff if you are looking to replace everything suspension related. My recommendation would be to start with dampers and hats, then get it aligned.

A good alignment shop will check your rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, etc. If those items are shot, most will recommend replacement before the alignment. A bad shop will align it, tell you that you have bad parts and that you'll need another alignment after replacement.

I would not expect it to drive like new after you've done all this work but I will say that nearing 150K on my 2010, it is still the finest driving car overall that I've ever owned.

 

[r2m]

One more point to keep in mind, ride comfort is a personal thing. What may be a rough ride to you could be Caddy smooth to someone who has only ever had a truck, and vise-versa.

 

[Rednexus]

My (general) comments are listed below:

1. $2200 is not a bad price for all new, OEM suspension parts. You can probably beat that price if you order the same parts from either a local Toyota dealer (many of whom have 15% off sales on holiday weekends) or from Partsouq, where they might be 40% cheaper.
2. With 200K on the rig, IMO you should replace all suspension control arms. The rubber bushings are going to be pretty worn out and I'm betting several are torn. This includes the front UCAs and LCAs, as well as the same in the rear (plus the panhard bar). I've had good luck with aftermarket Moog LCAs in the front, but have ripped bushings in Moog LCAs in the rear. I'd go OEM if you can for all of the control arms. Aftermarket quality is just too hit or miss.
3. Since you are looking to replace the shocks and springs, I'd consider a buying a bundled lift kit with springs, shocks, and front UCAs. This will perform better than the stock suspension and might save a little bit of money as well, if you can catch it on a 4th of July/Labor Day weekend sale. I'd suggest an Ironman FCP kit (which I have) or a Dobinsons kit.
4. I would also replace the front and rear sway bar end links, front outer tie rod ends, and KDSS/sway bar bushings. The end links and tie rod ends can be found cheaply on Partsouq (555 components, which are made in Japan aftermarkets that are close to identical to OEM Toyota), or, at quite a bit higher of a price, from your local NAPA. You could also get OEM parts from your dealer. You can go OEM for the bushings.

For reference, I replaced all of these parts on my rig in 2021, using an Ironman Foam Cell Pro lift kit (with aftermarket UCAs) and all Moog control arms (lowers in teh front, all 4 in the area) and Moog sway bar end links and tie rod ends. It cost me around $3,200 in parts and I DIY'd the work in a weekend. The rig drove (and still drives) like brand new.

In the 4 years since the install, I've replaced the tie rod ends and sway bar end links with 555 parts (due to Moog being junk) and will replace the rear lower control arms with aftermarket arms, since the OE-style rear arms are weak and one has a ripped bushing. Had I skipped the Moog parts, it would have been around $3,500-$4K in parts. But, I have a rig that still drives like brand new .