OEM subtank install

[pkelly72]

I've started my subtank install and just wanted to document some of my failures so far so others might not have to deal with my issues:


1. Rivnuts
Cyclosteve and I, installed the most rear rivenuts. No issues really just watch your eyes for falling hot razor sharp metal that comes from drilling these holes. For the forward most rivnuts, we actually just drilled holes and went through the cross member. Good luck getting rivnuts in there. I'm sure it's possible but it would be a complete pain. Drilling and using bolts worked well.

2. Tank straps.
They are marked with a R and an L. Make sure you put them on the correct side. They are a different length and shape. I put mine on the wrong side and now I need to wait until I get someone to help hold a wrench while I take out the nut!

3. George's ECU
When I turn my switch around and look at the back of it, it doesn't look like this
Go to the switch and ECU diagram: http://web.archive.org/web/20101230184545/http://www.bajaoverland.com/auxtankinstall.php

My switch has pins 5-10 on top and 1-4 on the bottom. I have to flip it upside down to get this look. When I do, I'm not sure which pins are which? I just used the two upper right pins as my backlight. It's confusing to me but I have a caveman mind. I wired it all up and did a test and no lights no pump nothing. I'll try it again soon after I relax for a bit. Pictures to follow.

I'll post up where I got my fill tube and fittings shortly. Also, I went with a NAPA pump.

 

[lp2k]

Did u get this kit from SW?


I'm on the wait list. My intention is to work with my mechanic on having this installed

 

[pkelly72]

Yes. It's a good deal.

 

[lp2k]

I agree, so are you trying to locate the rest of the parts that el mariachi used on his build for the 2nd tank ?

 

[pkelly72]

Negative. Using georg's ecu and napa fuel pump. I've got 95% of all parts just missing one fitting.

 

[pkelly72]

I got the wiring to work, I think. Pushed switch and it lights up and pump comes on. I can't believe. For the love of Crom, it worked.

 

[lp2k]

post some pics!!

 

[pkelly72]

I will. I saw your question on the Chris's subtank thread, spend some time going through the other installs that have been done. Go to the FAQ and look at romers. All your questions will be answered there.

And yes, you will need George's ecu and no, you don't need an OEM wiring harness, you just need to run some wires and make your own.

 

[pkelly72]

Correction, you will need George's ecu if you are not going to do an OEM set up which is much harder.

 

[alia176]

For the forward most rivnuts, we actually just drilled holes and went through the cross member. Good luck getting rivnuts in there. I'm sure it's possible but it would be a complete pain. Drilling and using bolts worked well.

I know of one or two other fellas who simply drilled larger holes right through the floor boards and access this area this way. IIRC, when I did mine, the driver side cross member spot allowed the use of a typical rivnut installing tool but the passenger side was a PITA. I basically followed George's method on this one.

Send a PM to George with your ECU questions. He's a helpful Aussie.

Anyway, just some more info in case it helps out others.

Did your NAPA fuel pump have a built in check valve? If so, please post up the p/n and a cost for others to use.

Caution: folks, do NOT cheese out on the rivnut installation. Do everything you can, to use the best quality rivnuts and perform a "best in class" installation. One of my buddy's subtank dropped from the abuse his 80 received on Death Valley washboards. It was repaired quite easily by another very capable 80 owner on the trail.

 

[pkelly72]

We also drilled through the floorboard. I'll post pics later. This made it much easier and thanks

 

[djsixbillion]

If the Napa pump doesn't have a check valve, you will definitely want to add one. I went high tech and put in a solenoid valve that basically does the same thing, preventing fuel siphoning from one tank to the other when the pump isn't running.

Good job so far!

 

[pkelly72]

Just ordered the last fitting. Went with a T - 1/2x1/2x3/8. This will allow me to T into the main tank vent line (1/2") from the 3/8" pump line. Glass filled black nylon, fuel rated.

 

[alia176]

I've often thought about having means to fill up a gas container sitting on the ground from the sub tank. This is for emergencies when someone is running out of gas and needs couple of gallons to finish out the trail. Not sure why I never followed through!

Just a 3 way with a gate valve and a barbed fitting is all you'd need I think My vision was to place a gas container under the rear cargo area, slip the fuel hose temp to the barbed fitting (no need for a clamp), open up the gate valve and transfer some fuel by using gravity from the subtank. Assuming of course, there's fuel left in the subtank!

I guess one could get all fancy and place the T after the pump and using a longer hose, you can transfer fuel directly into the stranded rig!

 

[pkelly72]

I have thought about the same but in this case, why not just unplug the pump hose from the barbed fitting and push fuel to the cans?

 

[icorradoi]

Why did you decide to use the NAPA pump instead of the OEM?

You still using the OEM solenoid?

Thanks for posting your failings, better than learning from my own.

 

[pkelly72]

I did use the napa pump. I'll post pics and part numbers later.

 

[pkelly72]

I did use the napa pump. I'll post pics and part numbers later.

More to follow.

 

[pkelly72]

About $60.

 

[gofast]

So where did you locate the pump?

I have a SOR "Kit" with no pump. Thought I'd go external and bolt a fuel pump to the frame - this might work?