OEM subtank install

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Cut out the old filler tube tonight and installed the dual filler with hose. Also moved the straps to the correct side as well.

The cutting the old filler tube was tough. We did it with a hack saw. It was stressful because we were afraid of sparks. I'm a firefighter and I should know better but we went for it. No issues.

The new filler hose, 1 5/8" has metal throughout and was a pain to cut and fit into place. I planned on finishing tonight but just ran out of time.

I still need to mount the tank, measure the lengths of filler hose, attach a few wires and grounds and finish the plumbing. I would guess its 1-2 more hours and finished.
 
I notice there has been a running discussion of rivnut installation. I did the OEM sub tank install a year or two ago.

Around our house we call it erector-set-metal, but I think it's called perforated metal at Lowes or home depot. There is "L" angle or strip, with rows of pre-drilled holes & slots. (you see this square tube used for parking lot sign posts, they can bolt the sign anywhere). Parking lot sign posts are solid, pick something at the hardware store that is about as thick as the body sheet metal.

When you buy your Rivnuts they come in a bag of 10-12, you only need 2-4 for this install, that leaves plenty to practice !

Drill out some of the the pre drilled holes to the correct diameter, then practic installing rivnuts, where you can see both sides. Over compress a few, under compress a few put 'em in a row side-by-side to compare. Put a tourque wrench on a few and see what it will really take to spin one. Practice till you can do a few in a row spot-on.

At the end of the day you will only be out a few bucks more, and you will know Exactly how things should feel game-time when the bottom of the hole is blind. ( I probably have pics of my practice runs somewhere if this process is not clear)
 
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I notice there has been a running discussion of rivnut installation. I did the OEM sub tank install a year or two ago. Around our house we call it erector-set-metal, but I think it's called perforated metal at Lowes or home depot. This is "L" angle or strip, with rows of pre-drilled holes & slots. (you see this square tube used for parking lot sign posts, they can bolt the sign anywhere) When you buy your Rivnuts they come in a bag of 10-12, you only need 2-4 for this install, that leaves plenty to practice ! Drill out some of the the pre drilled holes to the correct diameter, then practic installing rivnuts, where you can see both sides. Over compress a few, under compress a few put 'em in a row side-by-side to compare. Put a tourque wrench on a few and see what it will really take to spin one. Practice till you can do a few in a row spot-on. At the end of the day you will only be out a few bucks more, and you will know Exactly how things should feel game-time when the bottom of the hole is blind. ( I probably have pics of my practice runs somewhere if this process is not clear)

Solid advice. Lucky for me, my rivnuts are in thanks to cyclosteve. We drilled through the body on the front two. We only used 2 rivnuts for the ones closest to the rear. See pics.
 
I think i went the same route. Not sure what diameter saw/drill you used in floor, but lowes/home depot has plastic plugs that sealed real well for me. Snapped them in temporarily intending to go back later and seat them with caulk. Numerous water crossings here in AK, and never a leak.
 
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There's something strange happening. When I ground the sending units white/black wire to the chassis, the system won't work. When it's not grounded it will work.

Any ideas?
 
I'm an idiot. I realized last night at 2:33am that the system won't turn on while grounded because the tank is EMPTY! George's ECU was working just like it should and I did wire it correctly.

What a waste of time.
 
I've taken the install as far as I can by myself, at least for today.

-All wiring is done and connected.
-Filler neck has been cut out and removed with dual neck installed.
-Hoses have been installed on main tank and vent line to dual filler neck.
-Hoses for subtank have been measured and cut.

What needs to happen?
-Connect subtank filler hose and vent hose to dual filler neck.
-Cut main tanks 1/2 vent line and install T
-Install 3/8" line from NAPA pump to T
-Fill and test system

Helpful tips:

Have at least 4 different colored 16 Gauge wires for install
Have old toyota plugs with pigtails for easy wiring*
Study how to solder on youtube if you don't know what your doing like me
Plenty of shrink wrap, electrical tape, wiring wrap, and patience
*I didn't and had to buy new -- They are $6/ea X 6 for the project.
Have several new blades for your hacksaw and take your time cutting that filler neck
 
I've taken the install as far as I can by myself, at least for today.

-All wiring is done and connected.
-Filler neck has been cut out and removed with dual neck installed.
-Hoses have been installed on main tank and vent line to dual filler neck.
-Hoses for subtank have been measured and cut.

What needs to happen?
-Connect subtank filler hose and vent hose to dual filler neck.
-Cut main tanks 1/2 vent line and install T
-Install 3/8" line from NAPA pump to T
-Fill and test system

Helpful tips:

Have at least 4 different colored 16 Gauge wires for install
Have old toyota plugs with pigtails for easy wiring*
Study how to solder on youtube if you don't know what your doing like me
Plenty of shrink wrap, electrical tape, wiring wrap, and patience
*I didn't and had to buy new -- They are $6/ea X 6 for the project.
Have several new blades for your hacksaw and take your time cutting that filler neck

I used a five wire ribbon made for trailer light wiring between the ecu and the sub tank pump and sending unit. I think they were 16g iirc.
 
That was smart. I wish I would have thought of that. Instead, I made a wiring harness and ran wire the entire length from sending into to ecu. There were a few splices but not many. All soldered, heat shrinked, electrical taped and wire wrapped. It sucked.
 
Hack saw blades to cut the filler neck ......?
I used a sawzall, thinking... How stupid is this going to look in the newspaper tomorrow....!!!
 
Hack saw blades to cut the filler neck ......? I used a sawzall, thinking... How stupid is this going to look in the newspaper tomorrow....!!!

Believe me, I wanted to sawzall that thing bad. I kept on thinking "I'm a firefighter and how will this look if I burn my house down." Each stroke was painful an deliberate. It took about 40 minutes to cut that thin metal with 3 blades. I hated every minute of it. At one point I was about to get the sawzall out but I just couldn't do it.
 
Believe me, I wanted to sawzall that thing bad. I kept on thinking "I'm a firefighter and how will this look if I burn my house down." Each stroke was painful an deliberate. It took about 40 minutes to cut that thin metal with 3 blades. I hated every minute of it. At one point I was about to get the sawzall out but I just couldn't do it.

LOL, I think I felt the same way when this pipe was cut. My paranoia was on high alert as well :D
 
I just used my plasma cutter...




j/k

cheers,
george.
 
I'm happy to report that the tank is in and fully works. No issues. No leaks. George's ecu works as advertised.

Thanks to everyone for the help. Also. I have 1 spare nylon T 1/2x1/2 x3/8 ID. Perfect for the napa pump. Just pay shipping.
 
For the next guy

Use an angle grinder for the gas filler hose!!!!! If you want to workout your arm by all means use a hacksaw!!!! :grinpimp:
 
Angle grinder?

Sparks?

Gasoline?

Boom?
 

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