Oem snorkel install. (1 Viewer)

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Full disclosure: This is my method. May not work for you.


So after searching a bit and not finding exceptional resources I went ahead and said, "f*** it" slammed a beer and started taping.

I started by using the assembled snorkel as a base template. I marked potential drill points in pencil.

1. Overall taping.JPG


At this point I had to decide, from which direction I would work. I decided to work from top to bottom. I drilled the first hole and prepped with por15. I decided on M8 nutserts and used a 27/64" drill bit (you could use a slightly larger bit for an M8 nutsert, but for me this was ideal because it required slight pressure to fully insert the nutsert prior to crimping it).

2. first hole.JPG


3. first nutsert.JPG


As you can see the nutsert is placed just before the curve towards the windshield (measures provided below). I then bolted the bracket to this nutsert and re measured my initial marking. I did not get any bit walk when drilling the first hole. Even still I decided to keep the bracket in place to prevent bit walk on the second hole. As you can see below, work well for me.

4. top braket.JPG


Also that is the moon, so its time for sleep. A few days of rain and family business prevented me from pressing. I did have to reapply tape and decided to remake tentative marks. I bolted the snorkel in place with the a-pillar braket, did my mark ups and pressed. Again I installed the upper sections nutsert, secured it. Validated the lower sections marking (still no bit walk). For the upper and lower section bolts I could not use the in-place snorkel as a guide like I did with the a-pillar braket using my chosen bit size. you could use a smaller one and step it up for finishing but I fear tearing the sheet metal.

5. mapping lower section.JPG


continued in next post...
 
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10. inside fender of fwd section.JPG
Finalized nutserts for the upper and lower section. If you didn't notice before, I removed the Land Cruiser Badge. More on this later.

6. lower nutserts.JPG


Next I affixed the snorkel to template out the forward bolts. At this point I identified about a 0.5cm push forward from original markings. Not a big deal functionally. Aesthetically I would have preferred the forward bolts from the snorkel be congruent with the aft fender mirror bolts. More on this later.

7. mapping fwd section.JPG


8. mapping fwd section off measure.JPG


I marked new drill points and pressed. For the forward sections nutserts are not the way to go. You have to bolt through the fender and plumbing in three points. The forward two bolts are exposed and the third is covered by the outer snorkel plumbing.

In anycase, the point is, there is a section of double skin fender which I suspect is purposefully reinforced for the factory snorkel. on the back side, you can see that I'm about 1cm off from center laterally and about .5cm off from center vertically.

9. double skin.JPG


10. inside fender of fwd section.JPG


continued in next post.
 
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I'm not going to go into detail about assembly, the point of this post is templating and drilling. Here is the final installed product. I do still need to plumb to the airbox. more on that later.

11. final.JPG


If I could do this all over again, I would:
- Drill 1 hole in the forward section dead center in that reinforced section picture above.
- Secure the snorkel forward.
- Template the A-pillar top hole, nutsert, secure at the top.
- Template the lower section aft mount hole, nutsert, secure.
- Template the remaining forward, top and upper section points, nutsert/hole.
DONE.

I would do my best to ensure its aesthetically pleasing. The current install is functional as intended, but there are somethings that bother me.... such is life. Its a 70 Series after all.
 
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NOTE: When "nutsert" is referenced, measurement is to center bore of nutsert (i.e. where your punch hole should be placed.

NOTE: measurement photos may not reflect the exact measured value due to angle of camera. Its just me, so take it easy.

CAUTION: Be careful not to drill into the frame of windshield frame or right side window frame.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A-PILLAR BRACKET MOUNT POINTS

- Base of A-pillar to top nutsert: 56cm
- A-pillar nutserts: 6.1cm

12. top section from base of a-pillar.JPG


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
UPPER SECTION MOUNT POINT

- Top of Fender to Nutsert: 10.4cm
- Aft edge of fender to Nutsert: 29.4cm

13. lower section from top fender.JPG


14. lower section from aft fender.JPG


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LOWER SECTION AFT MOUNT POINT

- Bottom of fender to nutsert: 1.3cm
- Aft edge of fender to nutsert: 17.2cm

15. lower section from bottom of fender.JPG


16. lower section from aft fender.JPG
 
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NOTE: When "bolt" is referenced, measurement is to center bore of bolt hole (i.e. where your punch should be placed.

NOTE: measurement photos may not reflect the exact measured value due to angle of camera. Its just me, so take it easy.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FORWARD UPPER BOLT

- Aft fender to bolt: 87.2cm
- Bottom of fender to bolt: 7.2cm

18. top fwd section from aft fender.JPG


19. fwd section from bottom fender.JPG


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FORWARD LOWER BOLT

- Aft of fender to bolt: 87.7cm
- Bottom of fender to bolt: 3.3cm

17. lower fwd section from aft fender.JPG


19. fwd section from bottom fender.JPG



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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The final step, for me, was having my filter canister modified by a local shop. The intake tube was cut off and flipped. The aft mounting bracket was moved counter-clockwise about 4 inches. The forward mounting bracket was moved clockwise about ½ inch and slightly bent. Finally, the mounting bracket for the auxiliary power terminals was shifted counter clockwise by about 3 inches.

Snorkle can.jpg
 
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looks good! nice work mate.

Are you willing to cut the rectangular section for the rubber adapter to the air filter canister as well?

In my case I had a little help and used my old man's troopy as template for installation in my BJ74.
 
looks good! nice work mate.

Are you willing to cut the rectangular section for the rubber adapter to the air filter canister as well?

In my case I had a little help and used my old man's troopy as template for installation in my BJ74.

I’m not quite sure what you mean? Do you have a photo reference?
 
It’s certainly not sealed but I’ve got a plan for that. That said, I’d be comfortable with water going over the hood so long as proper driving technique was used and I didn’t stop in water above the overfender (below the intake plumbing). More to come, I’m considering a few options and looking at what others have done.
 
Looks good!

Hows the water intrusion mitigation? I hear opposing reports of the OEM snorkel's ability for water submersion like aftermarket snorkels. Just curious as my incoming Troopy has an OEM snorkel.
The Safari Snorkels and other brands are probably a better bet than OEM for water submersion. The downside is that I don’t think they have the same bolt pattern as the OEM.
 
Divemedic thanks for being so thorough in your details.
 
The combination of Safari Snorkel and fender mounted mirrors creates some unique challenges. The leading edge of the snorkel has to be heated (carefully) and reshaped (carefully) to avoid the mirror mounts. The Safari Snorkel also requires an adapter (fortunately fabricated by Odd Iron Off Road) that connects the snorkel and airbox. OEM appears to be less of a hassle.
image.jpeg
 
I’m not quite sure what you mean? Do you have a photo reference?

Sorry I didn't expressed myself correctly; I meant the hole in the fender which connects the horizontal section of the snorkel to the air filter canister through a rubber hose.
 
I think I’m tracking @BJ74PE ... there are three bolt holes total that need to be drilled where the plumbing passes through the fender. Templating for the forward two holes are mentioned above.

I used the metal plate that goes between the “rubber inner-fender hose” and the inside of the fender wall to template the third hole and the fender cut out. I assumed this would be apparent for anyone installing an oem snorkel, and did not speak to that above. Thank you for raising the question. My apologies.
 
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looks good! nice work mate.

Are you willing to cut the rectangular section for the rubber adapter to the air filter canister as well?

In my case I had a little help and used my old man's troopy as template for installation in my BJ74.

This is how mine is set up on the FJ73. Air canister and washer bottle are different too for those equipped with factory OEM snorkels but I guess most people know this already.
 
The OEM snorkel is really only an anti dust snorkel but you can silicon the join to water proof it. But you may need to check this every few seasons to make sure the silicon hasnt detached itself.
The one piece aftermarket snorkels are a better investment for the long term if you are serious about crossing water.
 
Bump, measurements added. @cruiseroutfit

Solid, thanks!

I'm still torn on using these OEM variants vs a Safari. Both are here, both will work, the Safari has the cleaner-sealed install but the OE is just neat :cool:

Decisions... :D
 

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