oem oz sub tanks

[NMuzj100]

seems like this is a feature that you'd really need to use only on very long trips in the boonies. But how often does one do this in the US -unlike our Aussie friends?

I disagree. I think that the fuel tank on the 100 is undersized for the size of the vehicle and the V8's economy. My Camry has close to double the "Range". With the 100 I have to fuel much more often than my other vehicles. The subtank should have been an available option in the US or just made standard.

I want to keep the spare where it is so the rather complicated (and pricey) subtank looks to be the best option.

 

[alia176]

Havng a 13 gallon extra gas is a very nice insurance indeed. My biggest thing is that when fully loaded I get around 12 mpg and I have to fill up quite frequently on long trips. Having the second tank just makes it nicer not to have to fill up as often. But, the fillups are quite pricey however

You can have three five gallon jerry cans ontop/around/inside your vehicle or you can simply have a $400 dual tank system. On my previous vehicle, I used to travel with dual NATO gas cans and stored them inside. NATO tanks are very tight so fumes weren't an issue. Then I had to build a tire carrier with a gas tank attachment. Then I put them on the roof rack. Filling and transferring fuel were a PITA at times but it got me by.

Do we NEED it? Nope.
Do we WANT it? Hell ya!!

Ali

I was not saying that there is no point in having extra gas. Just that the complications of the OEM extra tank seem out of proportion to the benefits compared to having a couple of cans, given how rarely you'd really need it...

 

[informationjunky]

---

Hey, someone mentioned shipping stuff from Australia. There is a Toyota dealer a few miles from me. If there is some little part you need for the tank setup, PM me and I'll throw it in the mail for you.

By the way I highly recommend the sub-fuel tank. Even just for daily driving, you can go far enough between fillups that you sort of forget how thirsty these cars are!

David

That was me, I e-mailed you what I had found and a big question.

 

[Hltoppr]

Here's my solution....The bottom stays bolted to the roof rack when not in use, so I can still fit in the 7' garage...

-H-

 

[dclee]

Also, subtanks are safer. Especially on the OEM tank, which is tucked up above the frame rails. With Jerry cans, if you put them on the roof, they are inconvenient. If you put them on the rear, they are dangerous. Not that they are going to explode if rear-ended, like in the movies or with Pintos, but there are plenty of cases of them being ruptured in an accident and then the gas is ignited by some spark source (of which there could be plenty in an auto accident). Actually, this is a problem with many rear-mounted MAIN tanks as well.

My $0.02,

 

[george_tlc]

The subtank or aux tank is definitely the way to go if you want to add simple/safe and wife-friendly range to your vehicle. The factory subtank isn't that large, but for most places in the US it adds a sufficient safety margin to your range that you don't have to cut an adventure short because the main tank warning light is glaring at you..

I've had mine installed for quite a few years now and the way I look at it is that the time spent preparing for the install has paid off in ease of use since then. The install itself was really just an easy single day, but that's because of all the prep work before hand.

And - by documenting the process I've hopefully made it a lot easier for others.

cheers,
george.

 

[cruiserdan]

It is important to acknowledge George's write-up. His pioneering effort has made the trip down tank road a whole bunch easier.

to George.


D-

 

[clownmidget]

Indeed George deserves many thanks from anyone in the US that has pondered this, but probably just as much for showing many of us it even existed. I'd also thank Ron (aka paradisecruiser) too since his photos help alot with those folks that have some "mix" of 80 & 105 hardware.

I've had mine installed for one year now and have not had any issues at all with it. I use it almost every tank for the reasons folks identified above - if it's there and you are doing something it is just too easy to hit that button and continue on. In my book this is the slickest mod out there once it's completed but definitely not as sorted out as opening a box and bolting it on.

Cheers again to George!

Mike R.

 

[Steve-O]

I was a little confused, it seems we were talking about the long range auxillary tank and the oem sub tank at one time. Just so people dont get confused, they are very different. We should be getting more factory sub tanks in soon (like 2 months) and hopfully they will have the filler neck issue worked out. We have been going back and forth about what exactly we need from down under. Apperantly a lot of these parts are becoming harder to get. A lot of times they send the 105 neck (which Dan got), and more recentely they have been leaving out the sending unit (which Dan didnt get) Just so you know Dan, I found out some great info this morning, and hopfully should have a line on the sender for you. As for the neck, the aussies are having a tough time getting the 80 still. I have seen the 105 work, but......

Thanks, Steve.

 

[cruiserdan]

I test-fitted my tank over the weekend and it clears my hitch quite nicely. It also appears that I can make the 105 neck work. The main challenge is the outlet angles. The 80 neck outlets exit parallel to the ground and the 105 neck outlets exit at two different angles neither of which is "correct" for an 80. The front comes out at about a 45 and the rear points almost straight down. It also appears that the 105 neck is not a tall as the 80 neck which may give me enough room to transition both outlets to get them parallel to the ground before they have to pass over the top of the frame rail. I have yet to cut my stock neck off so I am "winging" it at the moment.

The plus side to the 105 necks is it seems to be easier to get a "nice" one and they are Petrol as opposed to diesel so they have the fuel nozzle restrictor in place. This is important for folks who must pass a visual inspection during an emissions test.

Thank you Steve, I am glad to hear about the sender as that has me hung-up at the moment.

D-

 

[Darwood]

So Steve,

How different is the long range auxillary tank install vs the oem install? Are parts still an issue with the long range tank like the oem tanks?

 

[OZCAL]

---I am pretty sure the standard setup on the OZ oem sub-fuel tank provides that the fuel in the sub-fuel tank is pumped to the main tank when the sub-fuel switch is engaged. I don't think you can "switch tanks". I'll try to see if this is confirmed in my owner's manual tomorrow, but in any case my experience is that when I engage the sub-fuel switch, the needle on the sub-fuel display goes down quickly while the needle on the main tank display comes up quickly. Thus, gas is mixed - which wouldn't help in your Mexico scenario.


David

---More information: I just checked my owner's manual (it's morning here) and there are two entries for the sub-fuel switch, one which describes a transfer from the sub tank to the main tank, and one which merely says to engage the sub tank when the main tank is dry. I infer that the gas is not mixed in the latter setup, which would help in the Mexico situation. The switches are subtly but clearly different in the two setups.

I will take a picture of the manual tonight and try to post it so everyone can see what I'm reading.

Hope I'm helpin' more than hurtin'.

David

 

[cruiserdan]

Thank you David.

I am also curious if the owner's manual has a suggested filling procedure, IE is it recommended that one tank be filled before the other. The flapper does not completely seal off and some fuel leakage appears unavoidable between tanks during filling.

D-

 

[hobbes]

Does the sub-tank allow for the "raised factory spare tire" mod many of us have done?

CDan, am I reading you correctly in that the 105 is a gasoline filler neck, and the 80 would be a diesel filler neck? I missed that one in my readings. That would be a problem for me. I wonder if there is some sort of snap-in insert that would pass inspection to allow for an 80 filler neck to work.

 

[dclee]

---More information: I just checked my owner's manual (it's morning here) and there are two entries for the sub-fuel switch, one which describes a transfer from the sub tank to the main tank, and one which merely says to engage the sub tank when the main tank is dry. I infer that the gas is not mixed in the latter setup, which would help in the Mexico situation. The switches are subtly but clearly different in the two setups.

I know in OZ the petrol (that's GAS to us) subtanks used a fuel transfer scheme, but the diesel (that's OIL BURNER to us) subtanks had a fuel pump integrated into the sender assembly (i.e. in the tank itself, not a separate fuel pump plumbed in somewhere upstream) and pumped directly forward to the fuel rail. Getting a diesel tank and using it in a gas application might be the best of all worlds (I had one, but sold it with my `97 truck- regretting that one...).

 

[dclee]

Does the sub-tank allow for the "raised factory spare tire" mod many of us have done?

CDan, am I reading you correctly in that the 105 is a gasoline filler neck, and the 80 would be a diesel filler neck? I missed that one in my readings. That would be a problem for me. I wonder if there is some sort of snap-in insert that would pass inspection to allow for an 80 filler neck to work.

I don't think you can do the raised spare thing, but I could be wrong.

105 or 80 doesn't relate to diesel vs. petrol. The 105 and 80 have different fill necks, but within each truck's "family" the fill neck is the same regardless of whether the truck is a petrol or diesel. For example, the FZJ80 (petrol 80) and the HDJ80 (diesel 80) both use the same dual fill neck. But that fill neck is different from the one used in the both the FZJ105 (petrol) and HDJ105 (diesel).

 

[dclee]

The plus side to the 105 necks is it seems to be easier to get a "nice" one and they are Petrol as opposed to diesel so they have the fuel nozzle restrictor in place. This is important for folks who must pass a visual inspection during an emissions test.

Dan -

Can you elaborate a bit more on this? What is this part? What does it look like? How do I tell if I have it, and more importantly, how can I retrofit if needed? I ask because I believe my fill neck came off a diesel truck. I haven't installed it yet, so now would be the time to do any mods necessary...

TIA,

 

[cruiserdan]

Derek,

The petrol necks have a restrictor plate with a little spring-loaded door thingy that prohibits a leaded fuel or a diesel fuel (same diameter) nozzle from being inserted into the neck. Unleaded fuel nozzles are smaller in diameter. I believe that there are actually 4 possible necks one would encounter, petrol and diesel 80 and petrol and diesel 105. The restrictor is required on unleaded fuel vehicles and is looked for during visual system inspections during emissions tests. It seems a bit out-dated as I can't remember the last leaded gas pump I saw. But none-the-less the statute stands.

 

[cruiserdan]

Does the sub-tank allow for the "raised factory spare tire" mod many of us have done?

The carrier would need to be returned to it's original position. The thank sits directly above the carrier crossmember and the tank has a relieved area to clear the top of the hoist where the crank handle goes in.

 

[hobbes]

When I bought my GN, the PO had removed the fuel neck restriction (he had the taken the car to Germany, so he said). The inspection station in Ohio failed the car and said before they'd pass it I'd need to produce receipts for a new fuel tank and several other things related to the fuel system(I might still have the list in my filing records). I believe the total estimate they gave me was around $1000 if they did it. They put the results in the state computer system. I fixed the problem when I moved a couple weeks later to Florida (with no emission testings), though I did eventually replace the fuel tank. It's a stupid rule since leaded fuel has not been available, that I know of, in forever. But with any EPA rule, stupid or not, they can cost a bunch of money if you're not in specs.

This mod has been on my wish list since I bought my 80. Maybe I'll get off my butt and do it when the next tanks come in...