Nut & Bolt Frame-Off 1978 FJ40 Restoration

[MScruiser]

Ok guys, I could really use some help here; it's time for me to route my rear wiring harness, and I did not take enough pictures when I was disassembling it. I know generally where the loom runs, but I do not know the exact route. Also, I have these four metal clips that I need to know the correct locations of, and I also remember there being several plastic tie downs along the frame rail. Does anyone have any pictures of the correct locations of the loom, clips, and tie downs?

From looking at my pics, I am fairly certain these two clips are correctly positioned. I also believe that another clip goes in the center of the rear crossmember; I still need to account for one more clip though.

Can someone look at their cruiser, and tell me if the loom is supposed to go over this rear bumper gusset (as pictured), or does it go below?

 

[under_psi]

mine still has a lot of the metal ones under it, theyre hard to take pics of tho, you are more than welcome to come refrence. i think yours probably has a little different set up seeing how it is a '78 and mine is a '76....

i also didnt have any of the plastic ones under the truck, that i know of, only the ones inside the engine bay and on fenders......which i am replacing this week when i reinstall mine.....

 

[Bomar]

Don't go the BAT route. This one went cheap

1978 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40

 

[MScruiser]

Don't go the BAT route. This one went cheap

1978 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40

I saw that one a few days ago.

For some reason, imported 40's NEVER fetch big premiums. Especially ones without heaters. Just my $0.02.

 

[MScruiser]

Welding new captive nuts, extracting broken bolts, chasing threads, and grinding welds.

 

[MScruiser]

After 1 application of chemical stripper, followed by a powerwash. Good thing so far, is no "surprises" underneath the undercoating. Actually, there is beautiful paint hiding underneath; I think the coating was applied on top of fresh paint.

I think 1-2 more coats of stripper ought to do the trick.

 

[ntsaint]

Curious, why not just sandblast? Buy some soda media or fine beads...?

 

[dnp]

Curious, why not just sandblast? Buy some soda media or fine beads...?

I'm wondering if blasting will take off a rubberized surface?

 

[MScruiser]

Curious, why not just sandblast? Buy some soda media or fine beads...?

Yes; kinda.

Though it will work, I have to go over the area about 3-4 times as long, so I'm wasting 3-4 tines as much media.

More media = more expensive, and bigger mess

Taking off as much undercoating as I can with the chemical stripper is optimal (and fairly easy). Just apply, wait 15-20 minutes, then wash off.

Once the coating is off and all of the paint has been removed with the stripper, I'll go over the whole thing with the Blaster to get the hard to reach areas, and make everything uniform.

Fun fact: I contacted the local mobile blaster company here in Jackson to get a quote (in case I wanted to get someone else to do the dirty work). The guy told me $1500-$2000.

Yikes.

 

[ntsaint]

Guy here Soda blasted entire body of my truck. $650.

 

[G-Cat]

Dustless Blasting looks quick and easy

Check it

 

[under_psi]

Dustless Blasting looks quick and easy

Check it

what chemical do they use for that?

 

[G-Cat]

On the video it looked like water and media (sand or similar)...but I just watched the video...not really sure.

 

[under_psi]

On the video it looked like water and media (sand or similar)...but I just watched the video...not really sure.

i watched a vid too. but a comment in that thread said "the chemical they use is hard to get out of the nooks & crannies"

 

[MScruiser]

It's baking soda.

Yes, it's extremely difficult to remove the residue, and neutralize it. Not really optimal for car restorations.

 

[MScruiser]

Another treatment with chemical strip.

It's ready to be blasted now.

Before I blast, I'll need to make sure I'll have everything sorted out for the self etching epoxy primer. I'll do some research and figure out what kind of primer is best primer.

 

[G-Cat]

It's baking soda.

Yes, it's extremely difficult to remove the residue, and neutralize it. Not really optimal for car restorations.

See that. I'm just the dummy who tees-up the link...then the guy with brains knocks it out of the park. Very symbiotic relationship and everyone wins in the end.

 

[MScruiser]

So I've been reading threads over at HotRodders, and the general consensus is that for Epoxy Primers, SPI is the winner, hands-down. Pricey stuff though. Supposedly much better than PPG, which is what I have always heard was the best.

I'll contact them this week and get the skinny on what I'll need besides the epoxy and activator.

I'll now flip the truck right side up again, and get to work removing paint from the rest of the body, along with any other welding and grinding that needs to be done. Once the majority of the easy-to-reach stuff is off, I'll plan on blasting the entire truck. I'll then hit the underside with epoxy primer, allow to dry, and then hit everything else with the primer. At that stage, I'll be able to start on filler and block/sanding.

 

[MScruiser]

More welding and grinding.

 

[MScruiser]

Been buzzing the panels with a polycarbonate sanding disk; I love this thing!

Outer panels are 95% done

Don't you love it when there is absolutely ZERO rust hiding underneath the paint?!

Once I have the paint in my hands, I'll begin sandblasting to make things uniform and get the paint out of the nooks and crannies.