ntsaint's FJ40 search and build

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Replace the TRE's and streighten out the tie rod and sleeve it with some iron pipe. RDB conversion for sure. Not hard at all and no more $ than bringing back the old drum set up. Worst pard is having the ID of the Chevy rotors opened up to fit the Cruiser axle flange. Let me know if you want to go this route and I'll turn some for ya.
 
Thx guys. Def going to order a new TRE set and probably pickup a used tie rod while I'm at it. Seems like a good time to do that.

As for the brakes, no time before I get the truck put back together, but i do like the idea of the disc conversion on the rear. I found this (along with instructions) on JT Outfitters' site, I'm assuming I could handle this, doesn't look too tough, and the price doesn't seem too bad either:

Rear Disc Brake Kit Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ55 e-80 - JTOutfitters


What are you guys doing for the front rotors, etc? My fronts are pretty rough looking too...

As soon as i get the truck back together and moved (ugh), I'll start in on the brakes. That way the rig will be known-good from the frame down...
 
Napa etc ought to be able to get you front rotors.
 
PM me and I'll walk you through how to pull these parts together yourself for a little less $$. You will need to hit a auto salvage yard, your local parts store, find someone to bore the rotors (me ;) ), and be prepared to flare a few brake lines. It's a snap.
 
wanabecruisen said:
PM me and I'll walk you through how to pull these parts together yourself for a little less $$. You will need to hit a auto salvage yard, your local parts store, find someone to bore the rotors (me ;) ), and be prepared to flare a few brake lines. It's a snap.
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You just got an audience with the Pope, Ntsaint.
 
wanabecruisen said:
PM me and I'll walk you through how to pull these parts together yourself for a little less $$. You will need to hit a auto salvage yard, your local parts store, find someone to bore the rotors (me ;) ), and be prepared to flare a few brake lines. It's a snap.
Click to expand...

Awesome, and will do. Thanks.

It will be a few weeks though, going to get everything mounted back up first.

Will probably go ahead and pull all the old drum components before i do that though.

I've read where you can cut the rear drum backing plate off with a sawzall instead of pulling the axle? Or do i need to go ahead and drain the diff, pull the axle, and replace the seal while i'm in there?


Just adding this for my future reference: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/152126-rear-disc-brakes.html
 
Rear axle seals are not common to go bad. Leave it all together until you strip it apart for discs. Honestly, I have driven thousands of miles with just front brakes on a 40.

When you do the rear discs, drain the 3rd and pull the axles. It will be a good time to inspect it all and maybe add an Aussie locker in the rear. Even with super light wheeling they are a nice addition.
 
wngrog said:
Rear axle seals are not common to go bad. Leave it all together until you strip it apart for discs. Honestly, I have driven thousands of miles with just front brakes on a 40.

When you do the rear discs, drain the 3rd and pull the axles. It will be a good time to inspect it all and maybe add an Aussie locker in the rear. Even with super light wheeling they are a nice addition.
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Exactly right. Plus we are going to cut up one of those backing plates to make the two little shims we will need to properly mount the RDB brackets. Pulling the rear axles is a one bananna job and a good opportunity to check things out and add some traction.
 
Sounds good. Should be ready in a few weeks.

Today has been slow...marine clean...wire brush..rinse...repeat. Slowly but surely the axles are shaping up.

Had to squeeze the Hundy in to one of the pics, she had her first bath of the spring earlier today.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

image-4034400456.webp


image-2710028285.webp
 
Awesome.....
 
Finished up the engine at lunch...got her all taped off and sprayed down. Left the transfer case alone, even though it was a little dirty.

Good thing is...no more smurf blue!

1st is before, last is after.

Should have the axles painted and ready in th next few days.

before.webp


Engine1.webp


Engine2.webp
 
It may be just me, but having a "clean" slate to work with sure makes everything better.

It just kills me to see someone do a $10,000 engine swap into a dirty ass engine compartment.

I would love to do something like you are doing. It is within my skill set, I just need to find the right truck to do it. I just don't have the patience for a long-term project.
 
I agree...I'm so OCD about that type stuff that there's no way i was gonna stop once i got down to the frame. I want it to be clean and right once i start building back up.

In fact, it's killing me right now that the block needs a little touch up...but I'm way to uneducated about all this to take it down further and clean/paint. It's just gonna have to stay. I'm going to settle for getting the valve cover blasted and powdercoated black.

I'm also a no-patience type guy, but I am really enjoying this slow process. It's definitely solved my 'free time' issue...and I was lucky to find this truck...was exactly what I needed. Thanks again Rob.
 
Looking great!


Hey nolen you can rebuild mine
 
looking good!

did i miss the color you plan on painting yo 40?
 
lenross1 said:
looking good!

did i miss the color you plan on painting yo 40?
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Thx. No, still on the fence. Dune beige or an olive are my two top choices. The old smurf blue is growing on me too.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
Yeah that's a cool color. The first 40 I saw/road in was blue
 
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