NST Spec Body Lift Kit (1 Viewer)

[lx4dp]

Need this kit as I'm doing 35's for a street set up but would like to have a 36-37's setup for off road trips. I'll just push sensors to align for the type of trip necessary.

Let me know how to get on the list.

 

[MTKID]

Need this kit as I'm doing 35's for a street set up but would like to have a 36-37's setup for off road trips. I'll just push sensors to align for the type of trip necessary.

Let me know how to get on the list.

I like your plans. I had planned on doing the same thing, except 37’s for the street and my 40’s for trail days, but once I had the 40’s on I couldn’t bring myself to take them off

For anything above 35’s, I’d recommend the 1.5” body lift. You should probably still trim the front fenders up some if you want to be able to hit ledges and drop off of ledges without any interference. Some haven’t trimmed and had a dynamic event off-road cause the tire to hit the fender. It is of course up to you, but I would hate someone to expect it to clear and have damage when it doesn’t.

Wheel offset plays a big part of this too. It’s a fine line to tuck the tire inside the fender well instead of hitting the underside.

The sensors can be kept in a small lift/adjusted position. At least that’s what I would recommend because it will effect alignment and it would be unfortunate to wear out tires if it wasn’t aligned correctly for one or the other adjustment position.

I wouldn’t max out the sensors myself. Maybe 1/2 or 3/4 to max would be a good rule of thumb, IMO. That should allow good ride quality and still provide good articulation with enough droop. Although each vehicle is a little different so you may play with it a little. Then when you’re happy with it, have it aligned in Normal height with the sensors left in that position. This also means your CV’s aren’t maxed out when in High, off-road, and they should survive a little longer, especially with heavier 36”-37” tires likely on there.

You’ll need to do the body mount chop and follow a similar amount removed as I showed in a previous post in order to clear 37’s. Since you have an LX, the KDSS isn’t a concern but you’ll want to still be careful how close the tire comes to the swaybar. I have removed my front swaybar and a few others have done the same, and the AHC seems to compensate pretty well on-road, with a notable improvement off-road. Leave the rear on. It will flex well still. Address the pinch seam like others have as well.

I bet you’ll find the LX handles 37’s surprisingly well, so you may end up leaving them on for longer and longer after each trip

I sent you a message about getting on the list

 

[Cruiserhead05]

All done.

Getting a little closer thanks to @OTRAMM

(34.6 x 11.5)

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All done. Quick before and after.

Before: sensor lift, black rhino Madagascar +25 wheels with 275/55/20 (31.9”)

After: sensor lift +1” body lift, 285/65/20 (34.6”)

Very pleased. Everything is better; stance, ride quality, etc. 8-speed is not impacted by tire change.

 

[Cruiserhead05]

Few additional pics. All in normal mode.

 

[lx4dp]

Brandon, looks fantastic. I've got a '21 and I may switch to those 20's. Ironically I reached out to Black Rhino about 2 weeks ago and they were no help at all. I'm not sure why they couldn't help me but I was inquiring about 20x9.5's.

Also, based on your photo there may be a small typo/edit to your post. New Toyo's were to be 285 / 65 / R20? Based on the Toyo site that's more true 34.6".

Looks fantastic! And I'll be stalking your posts for more pics of the rig.

 

[Cruiserhead05]

Brandon, looks fantastic. I've got a '21 and I may switch to those 20's. Ironically I reached out to Black Rhino about 2 weeks ago and they were no help at all. I'm not sure why they couldn't help me but I was inquiring about 20x9.5's.

Also, based on your photo there may be a small typo/edit to your post. New Toyo's were to be 285 / 65 / R20? Based on the Toyo site that's more true 34.6".

Looks fantastic! And I'll be stalking your posts for more pics of the rig.

You’re absolutely right, and I even posted tire pics earlier. I’ve updated the post.

I was originally going to do 17” wheels but glad I stuck with the 20’s. The ‘16+ body lines work better with larger wheels IMO, unless the bumpers are cut off.

Pics never do it justice but it’s much different now with the extra height and tire size.

Here is suspension in high mode.

 

[lx4dp]

You’re absolutely right, and I even posted tire pics earlier. I’ve updated the post.

I was originally going to do 17” wheels but glad I stuck with the 20’s. The ‘16+ body lines work better with larger wheels IMO, unless the bumpers are cut off.

Pics never do it justice but it’s much different now with the extra height and tire size.

Here is suspension in high mode.

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Totally agree about the +'16 bodies. This pic in Hi is ... unnnnha!

Also, when/where did you source the Black Rhino wheels. I noticed they're out of stock everywhere for the Madagascar. When I inquired about a different wheel they offered in 9.5, they said it was no longer being made.

 

[lx4dp]

Totally agree about the +'16 bodies. This pic in Hi is ... unnnnha!

Also, when/where did you source the Black Rhino wheels. I noticed they're out of stock everywhere for the Madagascar. When I inquired about a different wheel they offered in 9.5, they said it was no longer being made.

Side note on colors for the +'16, I really, really wanted the Atomic. It's so great in person.

 

[Cruiserhead05]

Totally agree about the +'16 bodies. This pic in Hi is ... unnnnha!

Also, when/where did you source the Black Rhino wheels. I noticed they're out of stock everywhere for the Madagascar. When I inquired about a different wheel they offered in 9.5, they said it was no longer being made.

They were on the truck when I bought it. I’ve found a few websites that had one or two left in stock but that’s it. Stinks they quit making them.

 

[lx4dp]

How many hours was your experience with the 1” BL, and, any challenges in particular?

 

[Cruiserhead05]

How many hours was your experience with the 1” BL, and, any challenges in particular?

@OTRAMM did the work. I believe it was roughly 12-15 hours of labor.

I know the radiator brackets were tricky and the front bumper took some time to get it right. I'm not sure if the '16+ front bumper is any different in terms of mounting points behind the plastic vs the older LX's but the final product looked as if no BL was installed.

 

[OTRAMM]

I ended up just tweaking tabs to line up the front bumper. I didn't have to move brackets like earlier in the thread. I just rolled the lower ones forward as needed. Took a few go rounds to make everything happy.

 

[Killacaviar]

Thanks @MTKID, excited to get to work.

 

[tbisaacs]

Thanks @MTKID, excited to get to work.

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The last time you’ll ever clear that garage door lol.

 

[Killacaviar]

The last time you’ll ever clear that garage door lol.

let’s hope not! lol

 

[teejnut]

Thanks @MTKID, excited to get to work.

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Is this the 1.5" kit?

 

[YellowJacket]

I ended up just tweaking tabs to line up the front bumper. I didn't have to move brackets like earlier in the thread. I just rolled the lower ones forward as needed. Took a few go rounds to make everything happy.

@OTRAMM can you confirm how many hours the 1” body lift for the 200 Series took you and is there any chance you videoed it?

 

[Killacaviar]

@OTRAMM can you confirm how many hours the 1” body lift for the 200 Series took you and is there any chance you videoed it?

I just got the interior torn out and accessed every body bolt. I loosened everything (all 8 mounts), removed the 9th bolt and all driver side bolts, swapped the 3rd and 1st body bolts, installed spacer #1, dropped the radiator, installed the drop brackets to the radiator all in 3 hours.

If you I wasn’t going to rechop my body mounts I could be done in 6-7 hours.

Its going easier than expected, nothing seized or broken yet…

 

[Killacaviar]

Is this the 1.5" kit?

It is

 

[MTKID]

Thanks @MTKID, excited to get to work.

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Nice trailer!