NST Spec Body Lift Kit (2 Viewers)

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I’m very interested in this as well!

Being semi local (Livingston) would you be interested in helping install?
 
Tanaman said:
I’m very interested in this as well!

Being semi local (Livingston) would you be interested in helping install?
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Shoot me a message and we can communicate about it 👍🏼
 
I'm in, just debating on which size kit. Seeing lots of folks going with the 1", any particular reason everyone is choosing 1" over 1.5"?
 
teejnut said:
I'm in, just debating on which size kit. Seeing lots of folks going with the 1", any particular reason everyone is choosing 1" over 1.5"?
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I am trying to be patient for the 1.5". My rationale for this is that with my 35s, I touch on full stuff in the rear. I figure that the 1" will get me just right with 35s. However I would like to go 37s for my next tire.
 
Whew, backfilled the OEM rear bumper cover install instructions.

TeCKis300 said:

Rear Bumper​

The rear bumper is trickier.

The upper part ties into the bodywork that moves up with the BL, but is also supported and floating on the frame that hasn't moved. So spacers need to be added to the step portion of the bumper.

The lower part of the rear bumper does tie into frame on a long bracket. This bracket just needs to be tweaked upwards.

Adding step supports​


@nwfl4runner gets credit as I borrowed the idea of using starboard, aka cutting board, aka HPDE. Cheap and easily cut with a jigsaw.

There is in internal plastic bracket on the bumper cover underneath the exterior step façade. It can be separated from the bumper skin by undoing the proximity sensors and a series of snaps. Goal is to remove this, and screw in some spacers to this bracket so that is floats at the right height of the new BL.

View attachment 3608014

Note the witness marks on the frame and plastic bracket and foam tape. The idea is to add blocks to these key areas as support to standoff this internal plastic bracket. Note the HPDE cannot be easily glued or bonded. VHB might do, but I found it more straightforward to mechanically screw these blocks to the internal bracket. I used small tapered brass screws to avoid rust.

Here's the pattern I used and works well. The plastic bracket is upside down here. I used 2-4 screw for each block. Sorry I didn't grab a picture but relative to this picture, they come from underneath through the plastic bracket into the blocks.
View attachment 3608008

There is also this ledge on the frame that needs a support. For this, I bolted HPDE to the frame. There's two large existing holes . With some larger screws and fender washers, these can be located and secured to the frame.

I added foam tape back to the areas where stock had it, but applied to tape to the frame as it sticks better to metal (than HPDE).

View attachment 3608552

Under Bracket​


This long underneath bracket has 2 attachment points to the frame and 4 attachment points to the bumper skin. One halfway to each side and two near the hitch. This bracket needs to be tweaked to move the bumper skin attachment points by the height of the BL. There's enough room for the side points, but the hitch point may not have height for a full 1".

Start by measuring the height of the points where they are relative to the frame. Goal is to bend it up by the amount needed until you get to the measured difference. To allow the play necessary to bend the metal bracket flatter, you'll want to slot/oval out the frame attachment holes of the bracket inward.

View attachment 3608565

Rear Bumper Cover​

Cut the thin center bridge of the bumper cover for clearance. I used tie wraps to secure these tow points to the supporting bracket when installing.

The plastic black hitch cover will also need a couple tabs cut but otherwise should clean up the look nicely. I no longer use the color matched hitch cover to YMMV getting that back on.

View attachment 3608579
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1713283531434.png
 
That Trim-Lok trim that looks promising is this one… about 1 1/4” tall…
IMG_7477.jpeg
IMG_7476.jpeg
 
Great news! For those that aren't aware, there is a company who will compensate for a body lift on our 200 Series sliders. Take a look at White Knuckle Off Road. On their website, they show a 1" body lift option in the drop down menu. I emailed and asked them about a 1.5" body lift option as well. Check out their response below.

The third screenshot is from Slee's website showing the sliders I currently have installed on my 200 Series. They've only been installed maybe 2 years and I've loved them, but I'll need to sell them once I have the body lift in hand. If anyone knows someone that would be interested, let me know. I'd even be willing to bring these sliders to LCDC and save the new owner a bunch in shipping.
IMG_1203.jpeg
IMG_1202.jpeg
IMG_1205.jpeg
 
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Website is up, but don’t judge me. I know I need to improve it still and add a lot more & better photos. I just need to start somewhere.

nstspec.com

NST Spec

nstspec.com nstspec.com
 
MTKID said:
With this in mind, I very carefully and slowly raised Jason’s vehicle (also an 08’ LX) that we installed the 1.5” kit on last week. I had two solutions sitting on the shelf if needed. However, the cap never started to pull down, and I was able to insert the spacer, and lower the driver’s side successfully. I am confident both his and mine are safe to drive and we did not need to insert any aftermarket part or steering linkage from another vehicle.
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Do you have a pic of this?
 
teejnut said:
Do you have a pic of this?
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This is what his steering looked like after completion…
IMG_7355.jpeg
IMG_7354.jpeg

Torque spec on the intermediate shaft bolt is 26lb ft if I remember correctly. Then paint applied.
 
teejnut said:
Has anyone taken apart the shaft to see how far it extends?
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No, and I’m not sure how easily it comes apart. I can share what mine looks like later this weekend. I can even remove the electrical tape on my cap that pulled down and photograph the exposed splines behind that but this doesn’t provide any exact information about the total length of that shaft. And that part is crazy expensive to order just to disassemble. Possibly a wrecked vehicle could be found to pull that from 🤔
 
MTKID said:
No, and I’m not sure how easily it comes apart. I can share what mine looks like later this weekend. I can even remove the electrical tape on my cap that pulled down and photograph the exposed splines behind that but this doesn’t provide any exact information about the total length of that shaft. And that part is crazy expensive to order just to disassemble. Possibly a wrecked vehicle could be found to pull that from 🤔
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26lb-ft is what I see in the FSM.

1713568070166.png


I believe this is the part, at least for my 2013 LX570. https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=4520360141
Edit: N/m the part that stretches out is the "steering actuator assembly" https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=4524060100
 
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How do we lock into the intro price?
 
teejnut said:
How do we lock into the intro price?
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I’ve sent out links to anyone on my list of initial requests for the 1” version. I haven’t started the 1.5” except one person that wants to have one set aside for me to help install next month.
 
tbisaacs said:
Support Indy vendors. Pay full price 😀
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I want as many of these out in the world and the response has been wonderful, so I’m going to open up the intro pricing for 1” to 15 kits instead of just 10 and 1.5” to 10 kits instead of 5. The laser engraving will match that number.

Thank you again so much for the response and support!

Also, I have ordered the small 1.75” diameter spacers to place under the cargo area. These will have a small 3m tab of sticky trim tape attached to it for you to use and included with all the 1” kits. Just clean the top surface of the crossmember and apply that spacer. It won’t make contact constantly, only under a heavy cargo load.

IMG_7497.jpeg


I also want everyone in these first kits to please share any issues, tips to improve the kits going forward and any installation tips. I’m happy to make constant improvements to the extent that I can.

For example, I ordered 3 3/4” diameter spacers for the four main cab body mounts in the 1” size because this diameter better matches the size of the rubber body mount under it, however I noticed some light rub marks on Jason’s rubber body mounts behind his new front 37” tires. Instead of complicating things with a perfectly matched spacer that then also touches a 37” tire, I want to make it easier for people to run 37’s so I ordered more 3.5” diameter material for all the 1” kits. I will keep these 3 3/4” on the shelf in case another vehicle platform uses a larger size. Also, I will be working on a replacement rubber body mount for that location that will allow an even more significant body mount chop and a smaller or different shape body mount.

I moved my body mounts back on the frame but that’s a lot more work than is necessary just for 37’s.
 
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