(Not Mine) Repost - Amazing Bussman RTMR with Metri-Pack 280s (1 Viewer)

[Dissent]

I came across this guys post from his Tacoma build and I swear he was reading my mind today back in 2015. His blog is called Bodenzord.com. This is one if the most amazing and thorough write ups I've come across regarding a Bussman Fuse/Relay install. His configuration has 10x mini fuses and 5x mini relays with 2x 12V busses in the RTMR chassis. I'm in deep monkey love with these posts and will be copying them nearly to a tee. The thoroughness and explanation of how things work, detailed parts lists and up close and personal pure wire porn imagery made for some great reading. I'm beginning this very build to revamp my electrical system and this is a must read for others considering this option.

Enjoy!

DIY Bussmann RTMR Fuse Block, Part 1 – Introduction | Bodenzord

This is Part 1 in a series of tutorials that will show you how to build a Bussmann RTMR fuse/relay block. If you're not familiar with this product, it's a simple waterproof enclosure that allows you to connect accessories on your vehicle through relays and/or fuses.

www.bodenzord.com

 

[scottryana]

Great writeup I did the exact same thing but used carbon fiber as a mount instead of aluminum, used the same Bussman block even. His writeup is incredibly detailed. I wish I had something like that to follow when I did mine I had to just fumble through it myself. Lol

 

[thatcabledude]

Bless the man that made that write up. I had it bookmarked when I did my swap. Saved me a fair amount of time I’m sure

 

[Mixelplix]

Fantastic write up.

I wish I had these resources when I began wiring.

 

[cme4lyt]

I too stumbled on this a while back; this is definitely the ‘gold standard’ of DIY tutorials.

 

[NLXTACY]

That exact thread is what convinced me to go Metri-pack on all my wiring and why it’s the default for my own products. Four years later and I don’t regret the decision.

 

[Douglas S]

I think the solid state controllers (switchpros, etc.) is the way things are going, but those Bussman RTMR's are really nice. I do wish there were higher current rated micro relays available for some items.

 

[SHREDwagon]

I think the solid state controllers (switchpros, etc.) is the way things are going, but those Bussman RTMR's are really nice.

Ideally one would use an RTMR with the Switch Pros as there's only one input. Will be trying this on the second install.

A solid state controller with an input for each switch would be the answer. SPOD has Switch-Pros beat in this regard and might be worth the extra for some.

 

[Dissent]

There are up to 50A relays in the 280 form factor although you'd need a second housing to accommodate the total amperage rating.

 

[Douglas S]

Ideally one would use an RTMR with the Switch Pros as there's only one input. Will be trying this on the second install.

A solid state controller with an input for each switch would be the answer. SPOD has Switch-Pros beat in this regard and might be worth the extra for some.

SPOD is not solid state, just a well packaged switch panel and relay/fuse housing.

Racepak and a couple of other companies also make solid state PDM's, but be prepared to spend if you want one. Racepak is $1800USD.

 

[NLXTACY]

SPOD is not solid state, just a well packaged switch panel and relay/fuse housing.

I haven't checked but even the Bantam?

 

[Douglas S]

I haven't checked but even the Bantam?

Didn't see that one, looks like it is.

 

[SHREDwagon]

Didn't see that one, looks like it is.

The advantage being: if one needs reverse lights to activate with an R input as well as having the option to override for anytime on, a front lightbar and high beam input. etc. Can't do this with Switch-Pro's as the single input is usually reserved for dimming, but can with the latest SPOD (for more $). Also needs to use relays with the Switch-Pro's for negative switching (toggling hi/lo on quality LED lights), etc

Either way, I'll always use an RTMR. But this time substitute the Authors recommended Weatherpack connectors with Deutsch / Amphenol on the panel bottom. Less bulky.

 

[Dissent]

I was also surprised at the bulk under the RTMR on his post. I'd consolidate that down to about 3x connectors with greater pin counts. That plug density on the Deutsch connectors is much better when you start dealing with 4-6 pin connectors. May have to re-weigh my Metri-pack vs. Deutsch argument. When I was going toward Deutsch originally, I liked the solid pins far more than the stamped pins because they looked far more sturdy but I don't know if it really matters for my "mostly always plugged together" use case.

I just revamped my new headlights and relay/fuse setup, cursing my lack of a fully built RTMR the entire time. Going to have to move this up the chain and get to it before the heat gets here.

 

[thatcabledude]

IMO, any type of connector under the panel is ridiculous. Waste of time and materials and also looks like crap. Also takes up room. Build it like an OEM panel.

If for some reason you just HAVE to unplug something it takes a matter of seconds to de-pin a lead.

 

[Willard]

This could not have come at a better time. I am gearing up to install a second fuse panel into the 60 for accessories and running it off my 2nd battery.

I have been looking into a better option to standard bluesea fuel panel. This fits the bill perfectly.

Thanks for posing this

 

[RFB]

Ive run that bussman block for ALL my accesories and its mounted right where cruise control used to be its been dusted, submerged and baked and never a failure at all. they are sweet.

 

[alia176]

That guy's OCD puts mine to shame, holy schmoly! What a nice write up. I've thought about going this route and updating my circuits from 14 years ago but given that I haven't had a single failure, i'm not prioritizing this project. But, the OCD side of me REALLY wants to go this sexy route.

 

[Dissent]

That guy's OCD puts mine to shame, holy schmoly! What a nice write up. I've thought about going this route and updating my circuits from 14 years ago but given that I haven't had a single failure, i'm not prioritizing this project. But, the OCD side of me REALLY wants to go this sexy route.

That's about where I am, 7 years and it's all working fine under the hood but it's all on the battery box. After pulling it to replace power steering stuff, it was apparent that I had added layers over time and it could be done much cleaner to consolidate and provide service ability along with integrating the new 7" headlights and grille setup. Of course then I'll have to redo the back panel wall and that's a bit more involved but I'm really looking forward to it all. It's a sickness.

 

[alia176]

Yup, it's a sickness and I totally resemble that sentimentality