Noisy Climate Control Fan

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Oh, never mind, my error. I do see 87165-60020 on Partsouq at listed price $157. But none available. Maybe won't ever be.
 
I thought I would chime in here and give you a break down of my steps to fix this problem. I too had the odd noise from the blower fan. I removed the fan and cleaned it out and was confident this must be the fix as there were several small leaves and pine needles stuck in the blower fan. I also removed the filter and vacuumed out the debris sitting next to the evap coil. Put it all back together and still the noise persisted. Well this confirms a bad fan as the noise is emanating from the fan itself. Ordered a fan and installed it a few days later. Exact same noise. Now I'm researching into the Blower Motor Fan Control module. I pull it out and see it's a PC board inside with a few caps and whatnot. This must be some sort of chip controlled voltage reduction circuitry, maybe a kind of tank circuit? I speculate it's sending pulses of voltage to the fan to control speed (I found the PDF linked above later that pretty much confirmed this), so I start looking for the module. Shocked at the price I conclude this is robbery because my vehicle has an the Lexus badge I start researching the Land Cruiser part. Mine is a 2005 with push button controls for the HVAC and I just needed to confirm the LC had the same setup. Everything I could find it appeared to be the exact same components as the LX. The LX part ending in 60020 is north of $350, the Toyota part I ordered was $146 shipped, and it's the exact same part as far as I can tell. I installed it and the noise is gone and the fan works as expected.

Part number is 8716522050, and here's the eBay link I used: Lexus IS300 GS SC RX LS Land Cruiser OEM Genuine Resistor Blower Motor Control | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/115119811460
Thank you very much for sharing this! Ordered!

I did find the 87165-22050 part locally for $240 (8716522050 - Toyota Hvac blower motor control module. Blower | Roseville Toyota, Roseville CA - https://parts.rosevilletoyota.com/p/48935908/87165-22050.html) but hadn't purchased it yet b/c I haven't been driving the LX due to business travel (I was in Fort Mill for the last 3 weeks coincidentally. Why was your Main Street closed over the weekend? I was too busy to stop and check out what was going on.)

Cheers!
rjones
 
Thank you very much for sharing this! Ordered!

I did find the 87165-22050 part locally for $240 (8716522050 - Toyota Hvac blower motor control module. Blower | Roseville Toyota, Roseville CA - https://parts.rosevilletoyota.com/p/48935908/87165-22050.html) but hadn't purchased it yet b/c I haven't been driving the LX due to business travel (I was in Fort Mill for the last 3 weeks coincidentally. Why was your Main Street closed over the weekend? I was too busy to stop and check out what was going on.)

Cheers!
rjones
Dang, wish I'd known, would have had a beer! Not sure why main street was closed, some party probably. I rarely get down that way, I'm usually in my shop covered in grease under one of the cruisers. No time for social activities!
 
Just a thought about the blower motor resistor replacement. Looking at the picture of the resistor, it seems like it’s a serviceable part. I haven’t had a chance to open one up and check out what kind of chips are installed on the main board of resistor.

But I am 70% sure it’s a bulging capacitor and capacitor do make high pitch noise when they hit the age of fatigue.
My point is, instead of replacing the whole resistor assembly (130$ to 300$ part). Why not open it and replace the faulty capacitor. Best capacitor is around 20 cents. And replacing capacitor with soldering iron is a peace of cake job.
My thought about capacitor is only a guess, it can be a tiny resistor or diode.
 
Just a thought about the blower motor resistor replacement. Looking at the picture of the resistor, it seems like it’s a serviceable part. I haven’t had a chance to open one up and check out what kind of chips are installed on the main board of resistor.

But I am 70% sure it’s a bulging capacitor and capacitor do make high pitch noise when they hit the age of fatigue.
My point is, instead of replacing the whole resistor assembly (130$ to 300$ part). Why not open it and replace the faulty capacitor. Best capacitor is around 20 cents. And replacing capacitor with soldering iron is a peace of cake job.
My thought about capacitor is only a guess, it can be a tiny resistor or diode.
I have little to no EE knowledge and would not even know where to start. If you're offering I'll gladly pay for shipping (both ways) and let you take a crack at it. I'd love to have a spare since the research by @hoser is showing it discontinued.

Cheers,
rj
 
I have little to no EE knowledge and would not even know where to start. If you're offering I'll gladly pay for shipping (both ways) and let you take a crack at it. I'd love to have a spare since the research by @hoser is showing it discontinued.

Cheers,
rj
I would gladly do it but the problem is that I work at remote site in a Mine and I am not home 75% of the time and I don’t want to hold you stranded.
 
I have little to no EE knowledge and would not even know where to start. If you're offering I'll gladly pay for shipping (both ways) and let you take a crack at it. I'd love to have a spare since the research by @hoser is showing it discontinued.
I don't know what the differences are between the LX and LC one... but the LX one is only used on the US and European market. The LC one is used on a lot of different Toyota/Lexus worldwide. There are also 6 different brands for aftermarket models on Rock Auto. It doesn't sound like discontinued will be an issue.
 
Partsouq today for my 06 LC.
1697214615797.png
 
Partsouq today for my 06 LC.
View attachment 3454799
From the Foreign Service article, the module appears to be a pulse width modulation (PWM) motor speed controller. These are common for DC motor and light power control.
The speed is controlled by adjusting the timing or width of the pulses of voltage. The figure in the article shows just this, intermittent pulses.
These can be purchased on ebay or other printed circuit sites very cheaply. I am not recommending that kludge, but I don't see why it would not work.
But it seems that this part sort of comes and goes regarding availability and price.

Thanks for all this information. Mine has a slight squeal noticeable at low speeds, so I will test the motor on the bench to know which part to replace.

Regarding cleaning, I I found that some spray cleaner, then wait a bit then hold the assembly under a hot water faucet , with the motor side UP, and the water will wash almost all the dirt off. Then in the sun for a bit to dry, or some hot air. I have also done the Q tip on a nice day.
 
Bought an OEM from eBay, here’s our thread on it. Took me 2 attempts, first got damaged.

 
Bought an OEM from eBay, here’s our thread on it. Took me 2 attempts, first got damaged.

Thanks, I went the Ebay route after digging through threads and finding that exact thread. I wish they also sold the plastic cage because I've tried getting that off before and was unsuccessful. Hopefully I'll get it off this time.
 
FYI: I did this very recently: Use a small pick to move the tab GENTLY on top of the cage unit and use like 14 mm wrenches on opposite ends to go between the cage and the black blower body and pry it up (Do NOT tap the metal rod).
You can also clean the AC evaporator at this same time.
Before the initial removal, ignition on and move the blend door to 65 F (to keep the heater core door closed)
Remove the cabin filters if equipped.
Using a blow nozzle with a soft extension hose, apply pressurized air from the opening of blower motor. I cleaned the evaporator on all my vehicles this way. You can check for any deposits on the evap core by using a inspection mirror before and after.

Once all done and installed, run the blower on full blast with vents directed to the floor/legs so to flush out any loose debris from the HVAC unit.

I do have an extra blower motor with the cage pulled from a rolled LC 100 (2000) incase anyone needs one.
 
I just got done doing this on my new to me LX. I noticed after using my windshield wiper fluid that the AC would smell like wiper fluid for a few days. I assumed there was crap somewhere in the HVAC system that was either soaking up the windshield wiper fluid or blocking a drain somewhere.

I took off the front windshield cowl and the only thing stuck down there was a razor blade from whoever replaced the windshield for the previous owner and maybe a few small leaves. I pulled the AC blower out and I could see that there had been some fluid inside the fan area when it was running at some point in time. There was a nice spray line around the circumference of the interior of the AC blower enclosure.

When I looked directly up into the AC blowhole without the fan and the AC was set to outside air, I could see straight up to where it seems the water from the cowl drains into. Is this normal? It seems like if leaves and debris can get in relatively easily water could too. I'd rather not have a bunch of water come in when I'm driving in the rain, but if that's how it's supposed to look and people aren't getting their feet wet every time it rains I'm not going to stress about it.
 
I just got done doing this on my new to me LX. I noticed after using my windshield wiper fluid that the AC would smell like wiper fluid for a few days. I assumed there was crap somewhere in the HVAC system that was either soaking up the windshield wiper fluid or blocking a drain somewhere.

I took off the front windshield cowl and the only thing stuck down there was a razor blade from whoever replaced the windshield for the previous owner and maybe a few small leaves. I pulled the AC blower out and I could see that there had been some fluid inside the fan area when it was running at some point in time. There was a nice spray line around the circumference of the interior of the AC blower enclosure.

When I looked directly up into the AC blowhole without the fan and the AC was set to outside air, I could see straight up to where it seems the water from the cowl drains into. Is this normal? It seems like if leaves and debris can get in relatively easily water could too. I'd rather not have a bunch of water come in when I'm driving in the rain, but if that's how it's supposed to look and people aren't getting their feet wet every time it rains I'm not going to stress about it.
Nomal!

The area under cowling, is a water drain trough. The fresh air intake tube, stick up above trough about 1". If water level gets above that ~1", it can run into HVAC air tube. Which blower sit directly below. Not the greatest system, but works. To keep water from overflowing. We must keep fender cavity, between door & fender cleaned out of leaves.

Still leaves, dust, hair, debris etc. will flow/blow into HVAC. For this reason. HVAC filter are a must, to keep core clean. All LX470 have them, but only some LC. Very good idea to upgrade to the HVAC faceplate, with filter door.
 
Nomal!

The area under cowling, is a water drain trough. The fresh air intake tube, stick up above trough about 1". If water level gets above that ~1", it can run into HVAC air tube. Which blower sit directly below. Not the greatest system, but works. To keep water from overflowing. We must keep fender cavity, between door & fender cleaned out of leaves.

Still leaves, dust, hair, debris etc. will flow/blow into HVAC. For this reason. HVAC filter are a must, to keep core clean. All LX470 have them, but only some LC. Very good idea to upgrade to the HVAC faceplate, with filter door.
Thank you! That does make sense. I appreciate the info
 

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