Noise When going over Bumps (1 Viewer)

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It's all good, i understand the resentment. I mean, i can't expect to sign onto a landcruiser forum and think people are going to embrace the fact we would possibly trade it for a cayenne. To everyone else, thanks for the input. We haven't found out what it is yet since it has had the noise for a while and nothing has really changed
 
jmd, check to see if your e-brake engages properly. The annoying sound i used to have was coming from the e-brake apparatus in the rear wheels that needed replacing. Thus, my e-brake wasn't working as it should've been.
 
^ If my e-brake is still working, would it be the issue? because the e-brake is used maybe every other day and works fine
 
i am getting a "loose" noise upfront DS. I think i might have toasted my shock when i forgot to put tension on my t-bar after indexing it and then lowering the jack......doh
 
Ok thanks for the help, really appreciate it. I think the thing with this truck is that there are so many metal pieces and screws and bolts that it is bound to have little noises coming from underneath and things going wrong over time, that and the rust do not make a good combination, but this truck still rides great.
 
When I had my 98 TLC change shocks I had to bring it back because I had the noise like you have mentioned. Found out to be the shock bolt on the RR. tighten it and it is all good. Hope that helps.
 
My 2000 makes the same noise. I just spent 4 days driving wash board dirt roads and the rattle/clank is consistent when the suspension is being jounced around. For a time I convinced myself it was rocks bouncing around the inside of my rims but after a while dismissed that idea.

My 2000 is bone stock, 111k miles and has no ride issues. I took a peak underneath last summer when I first noticed the noise but found nothing obvious. I will take a more indepth look soon...
 
I also got the "clunk" sound. The bushes on sway bars are a bit worn (after 270k km including quite some bad roads). But it proved, that the real issue is the upper mount of the rear shocks. I can even move the shocks with my bare hand so I suspect that not only the rubber "washers" on the top mount are worn out, but I might even have problems with widened holes on the upper shock mounts.
As my shocks have 150k km, I've decided to replace the rear shocks, as the upper bolt is frozen and I don't believe I will be able to turn it without damaging the shock.
Has anyone had similar problems? What is the best way to repair the hole on the upper mount if it proves to be too big? Perhaps widening it a bit more and make bushes for the upper mount to meet the new hole diameter?
And how to deal with it in the future? Straps limiting the travel would be nice. But it seems like a lot of work. Has anyone done something similar?

Regards
Samo
 
I do have a similar problem on my '98 VX100 Diesel. After many visits to the stealer's in South Africa and no solution to the problem, I traced the noise to the parking brake shoes in the rear wheel hubs. The noise is nothing serous as the parking brake is only used during parking brake operation.

You can easily test the problem by driving slowly with open windows and engaging the parking brake click by click. If the noise filters out by engaging the parking brake while driving slowly you will know that this is the cause of the noise.

Hope it help

Regards

Johann
 
I also got the "clunk" sound. The bushes on sway bars are a bit worn (after 270k km including quite some bad roads). But it proved, that the real issue is the upper mount of the rear shocks. I can even move the shocks with my bare hand so I suspect that not only the rubber "washers" on the top mount are worn out, but I might even have problems with widened holes on the upper shock mounts.
As my shocks have 150k km, I've decided to replace the rear shocks, as the upper bolt is frozen and I don't believe I will be able to turn it without damaging the shock.
Has anyone had similar problems? What is the best way to repair the hole on the upper mount if it proves to be too big? Perhaps widening it a bit more and make bushes for the upper mount to meet the new hole diameter?
And how to deal with it in the future? Straps limiting the travel would be nice. But it seems like a lot of work. Has anyone done something similar?

Regards
Samo

When you say that you can move the rear shocks w/ your bare hand, do you mean wiggle it.. or rotate it? Either way, lay your worries to rest, because the rear upper shock mount should be sandwiched by a plate (top and bottom... special metal washers?). However, most likely the rubber bushings are shot.

... on the other hand, I only worked on AHC shocks... I'm assuming the assembly is similar to standat shocks assembly.
I'f I'm wrong, please let us know.

Also... when I swapped out my AHC rear shocks, I took off the rear sway bar end links too. The bushing were so loose, I could remove it by hand. there was about 1mm play in them. I'm definitely going to replace them... You might want to check yours...

Good luck!
 
I do have a similar problem on my '98 VX100 Diesel. After many visits to the stealer's in South Africa and no solution to the problem, I traced the noise to the parking brake shoes in the rear wheel hubs. The noise is nothing serous as the parking brake is only used during parking brake operation.

You can easily test the problem by driving slowly with open windows and engaging the parking brake click by click. If the noise filters out by engaging the parking brake while driving slowly you will know that this is the cause of the noise.

Hope it help

Regards

Johann

I had the same exact noise as the threadstarter described. It did it more on the menial little imperfections in the road, washboards, etc. It turned out to be exactly what you posted here Johann. Same thing was happening on my buddy's 80 series too. I will be taking it apart again this weekend to see about remedying the noise.
 
I've had the Koni shocks. With these shocks you can't use the OEM washers - you can only have the top and the bottom Koni washer but nothing in the middle. Now I've changed the rear shocks (I have the KYB now - it's cheap, but I can replace them for this price more often ;) ) and now I again have the OEM washers arround the rubbers. The noise is gone.

Regards
Samo

When you say that you can move the rear shocks w/ your bare hand, do you mean wiggle it.. or rotate it? Either way, lay your worries to rest, because the rear upper shock mount should be sandwiched by a plate (top and bottom... special metal washers?). However, most likely the rubber bushings are shot.

... on the other hand, I only worked on AHC shocks... I'm assuming the assembly is similar to standat shocks assembly.
I'f I'm wrong, please let us know.

Also... when I swapped out my AHC rear shocks, I took off the rear sway bar end links too. The bushing were so loose, I could remove it by hand. there was about 1mm play in them. I'm definitely going to replace them... You might want to check yours...

Good luck!
 
dont know if you have an ome lift with shocks, but the ome shocks are notorious for an agonizing SQEAK over ever pothole/ bump! Really annoying, something you just have to get used to.... Soon to be getting fox shoxs. hopefully that will be easier on the ears...



:cheers:
 
I know it has been almost a year since i started this thread, but just this weekend brought the lx to my dads friend ho is a mechanic and the noise was from the shock bolts. We also got a new muffler from resonator back, new U joints, and new brakes and rotors all round for only 800 dollars, its like the car is brand new again. Its so quiet on startup, i forgot it sounded like that. We have decided on keeping the lx for another 2 years then trading it in on what ever is on the market when we do. Sorry, i don't post here much, on club lexus much more often. If anyone here thinks their 100 series accelerating not as smooth as before, check your u joints, big difference
 
I know it has been almost a year since i started this thread, but just this weekend brought the lx to my dads friend ho is a mechanic and the noise was from the shock bolts. We also got a new muffler from resonator back, new U joints, and new brakes and rotors all round for only 800 dollars, its like the car is brand new again. Its so quiet on startup, i forgot it sounded like that. We have decided on keeping the lx for another 2 years then trading it in on what ever is on the market when we do. Sorry, i don't post here much, on club lexus much more often. If anyone here thinks their 100 series accelerating not as smooth as before, check your u joints, big difference

I know this symptom ALL too well. Along with rough acceleration, if you let this problem go on for too long, you will also feel BIG TIME vibration through the floor and a loud drone sound throughout the cabin. And if anyone like the dealer tells you its your tires or your front wheel hub assembly, tell them I said they're on crack, and if they insist its your wheel hub assembly, make them show you exactly the parts and what its malfunction is. If they resist, direct yourself to the service and parts director and make them show you. If however you were fooled the first time, and actually let them keep the truck overnight, and are still hesitant to believe their diagnosis, the day of the pick up of your vehicle, test drive it first to make sure the symptoms you brought it in for are truly gone, before you pay.
 
I know it has been almost a year since i started this thread, but just this weekend brought the lx to my dads friend ho is a mechanic and the noise was from the shock bolts. We also got a new muffler from resonator back, new U joints, and new brakes and rotors all round for only 800 dollars, its like the car is brand new again. Its so quiet on startup, i forgot it sounded like that. We have decided on keeping the lx for another 2 years then trading it in on what ever is on the market when we do. Sorry, i don't post here much, on club lexus much more often. If anyone here thinks their 100 series accelerating not as smooth as before, check your u joints, big difference

I know this symptom ALL too well. Along with rough acceleration, if you let this problem go on for too long, you will also feel BIG TIME vibration through the floor and a loud drone sound throughout the cabin. And if anyone like the dealer tells you its your tires or your front wheel hub assembly, tell them I said they're on crack, and if they insist its your wheel hub assembly, make them show you exactly the parts and what its malfunction is. If they resist, direct yourself to the service and parts director and make them show you. If however you were fooled the first time, and actually let them keep the truck overnight, and are still hesitant to believe their diagnosis, the day of the pick up of your vehicle, test drive it first to make sure the symptoms you brought it in for are truly gone, before you pay.

Can someone specify which part of the U-Joints you're referring to? I assume not the whole propeller shaft.

Are you referring to one of these parts?
- YOKE, FRONT PROPELLER SHAFT UNIVERSAL J0INT FLANGE (37315-35070)
- YOKE SUB-ASSY, FR PROPELLER SHAFT UNIVERSAL J0INT SLEEVE (37302-60080)
- SPIDER KIT, FRONT PROPELLER SHAFT UNIVERSAL JOINT (04371-60070)
 

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