no spark from coil (1 Viewer)

[60 toy ota]

Hi all,

I'm more of a 60's guy so pardon my lack of knowledge on the wiring of an 80. I just finished rebuilding my dads 1fz (97 LX) which blew a HG. engine still ran when parked. post rebuild, engine cranks but doesn't even try to start. checked the distributor and it's aligned, put a timing light on the coil and no flash. Here's what I know:

Fuel pump pumps, which means the Circuit opening relay is working.
power at the EFI relay and IGN fuse.
Check engine light comes on, which tells me that connections at the ECU are secure.
I checked the 4-wire connector at the distributor and it's secure.
testing the connector for the coil, I got 12V on the B-R wire which is good, but during cranking the B-W wire stayed open. To my knowledge that wire should be switching between open and ground during cranking.

the symptoms seem to point to either a grounding issue or a harness connector that's poorly connected. The only grounds I undid were at the engine hook, upper intake and by the DS engine mount, which are all nice and tight. All connections are secure to my knowledge.

Any of you guys familiar enough with the ignition system to know where to go from here?
Thanks,
Drew

 

[Rifleman]

Since it was running before you rebuilt the engine, I'd go back over all the engine harness connectors, and grounds, and make sure you didn't forget to reconnect one. Or check for one that may have a poor connection. I'd get my wiring service manual out, make a punch list of all the engine harness connectors, and grounds, then check them off the list one by one.

 

[Granite Grinder]

Or fusible links?

 

[ppc]

The distributor may not be aligned to TDC on the compression stroke but on the exhaust instead, Are you sure the cams were installed properly?

 

[60 toy ota]

yeah I quadruple-double checked before I put the VC back on, cam lobes on number 1 were up and all. Plus the cams/dist. being off wouldn't explain no spark at the coil, would it?

 

[BILT4ME]

Do you have a CEL with the key in the RUN position?

 

[60 toy ota]

Do you have a CEL with the key in the RUN position?

Check engine light comes on, which tells me that connections at the ECU are secure.

*in the run position*

 

[BILT4ME]

*in the run position*

Sorry. I missed that.

Start working down this list:
Emergency Troubleshooting Procedures - FAQ Item (Recommend Keeping Copy in Truck)

 

[BILT4ME]

Take a look here. See post #12 from @jonheld
Turns over, no spark

Also read the resolution on that particular thread. Could be a resolution.

 

[60 toy ota]

Good news and bad news...

First off, thanks everybody for the tips. This morning I went out and checked ecu-b fuse, it was good and had power. Dis/re connected the crank position sensor, good. opened up the glove box and checked all the computer connections...all good. Then I took out the yellow top battery that was having issues (I had it jumped to a good spare battery as well as a starter pack...it would crank slow but seemingly ok. I had attributed the slow cranking to the block being painted by the machine shop where the big ground bolts in by the mount). I put the spare in instead (didn't even tighten the terminals) and jumped it to the running 60. Turned the key, it cranked super strong then Started right up as if it had a million times. Totally stoked about it. Super smooth idle, no lights, no leaks. Of everything I did, I think the only thing that made a difference was giving it more cranking power. Note to self, the 80 is sensitive to that kind of thing.

Now for the bad news.

Lots of white smoke out the exhaust, like lots. Looked like a train. smells like coolant. I gave it a minute to see if it just had to burn something off, but it never let up so i shut it off. Now I did have one head bolt in the middle that either yielded at our shortly after the 1st 90 as opposed to the second. Don't think the HG would blow that quikly/easily though, so I'm ready to rule that out. Don't think coolant is mixing with the oil (i.e. bad seal at the oil cooler) cause 1 I replaced all seals and 2 I don't think a brand new combustion chamber would allow for that much oil/coolant to get in.

Is it possible to get coolant in the intake by routing lines incorrectly? The hardline at the water pump wraps around the front and I have it going back into the head by the phh, I assume this is correct? You'd never tell by listening to the engine that anything was wrong.

I apologize for not having a video but I honestly didn't expect it to start and this all took place just hours before I left for a new semester of school. I can have my dad take one if that would be helpful. lastly, you guys tell me how you like your forum. Am I better off taking this issue to a new thread or do I keep going on a tangent with the no spark thread?
Thanks as always.

 

[60 toy ota]

There's also a ticking noise that's new, but it seems to be coming from the front like an accessory or something so I'm not quite as concerned about that, plus I didn't set the distributor anywhere particular so that could be related...just want to put that or there in case it's a clue

 

[60 toy ota]

Obligatory videos. My dad ran a block test and the color stayed the same, phew. My latest hypothesis is either that:
1. Coolant getting in EGR system. Don't know how it would, but that egr pipe is right next to the phh. Or
2, and more likely, coolant got pushed into the exhaust when the hg blew and didn't evaporate (both of these scenarios make since considering the nature of the blow). The exhaust is clear for about 5 seconds then gets progressively more white, which would just be old coolant evaporating in the pipe from the heat of the engine. It also lingers for a little after the engine is off. What say ye?

 

[60 toy ota]

My hunch was right. Dad drilled a small hole before the muffler and drained 1/8 cup (if I heard him right), Kept getting cleaner the longer he ran it. Ps fluid took care of the ticking.

Thank you all for your collective knowledge and happy new year!