No Power to Idle Control Solenoid - Electrical Issue - Battery Cables Crossed (1 Viewer)

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Apr 8, 2019
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Location
Raleigh, NC
So long story short, in a rush I replaced battery in my FJ60, and accidentally criss-crossed cables (neg to pos, pos to neg). Quickly realized my error and connected cables properly. Since then, my truck won't idle w/o foot on gas. Figured out that there was no power going to idle control solenoid (fuel cutoff) on carb and if I hot wire solenoid to battery, truck runs and idles fine - until I wan't to shut it off, of course.

I'm also noticing the temp control switch and/or blower motor is not working. Had a blown fuse for dome light, replaced that but no other blown fuses. Radio also not getting power.

Have tried to bypass emissions control computer by grounding solenoid to carb screw but that doesn't work. Have also swapped fusible links but no change.

I've got 0.6 volts going to idle control solenoid with key in on position.

Any ideas?
 
I did the same thing, and have the same problem. For a while, it would idle well (and heater fan works) until the carb blower fan sensor closed (when engine warmed up). Plus, that blower fan got ruined, so it's been yanked for now. I tried pulling that blower fan's relay, no change. Might be a short in the sensor relay, if I can figure out which that is, I'll pull it too.

I wonder if a relay got fried, and can only deliver .6 volts for you (I think mine is delivering zero).
 
Sorry to hear you've got the same issues. I first replaced voltage regulator on alternator but that didn't change anything. I checked all of the fuses and circuit breakers under dash. I reset the heater circuit breaker but not sure it had actually been tripped. I had swapped battery fusible links after crossing battery cables thinking I had fried it, but I ended up putting my old one back on and that seemed to solve all of my issues. Not sure if I just got lucky somewhere or if my spare fusible link is bad. Also unplugged the emissions computer for a short while.

Is your alternator charging properly? Mine wasn't that's why I was thinking I had fried something with alternator first.
 
I fried my fusible link, had it repaired. And fried the alternator and voltage regulator, replaced.

I have zero volts to the carb fuel solenoid with key on warm, and hit or miss when cold. Emissions controller looks good, no bad connections anyway. (took it apart and checked all the connector solder joints (same with the other big relay next to it).

I think I have a flakey relay, going to pull all of them and test.
 
Have you checked the 'Engine Fuse' in the fuse panel?
 
Have you checked the 'Engine Fuse' in the fuse panel?
Yeah, but I'll check again. It's something bad on that circuit. I still need to pull the cooling fan relay. Before it was 100% tied to the cooling fan sensor closing, and the heater and all gauge lights would go dark, so I thought the cooling fan circuit had a short in it. Now, they are both intermittent independently. Something's seriously fubared.

I'm just going to start opening every damn thing up, find the burned wire(s) or relay(s).
 
Fixed it! Bad corrosion on #3 contact on an M3 relay. (I think the charge relay, not sure, don't have a year specific diagram any more.)

[edit] Fixed temporarily. Next time I started it, back to old ways. This is killing my soul. Usually I can figure this stuff out easily.
 
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I’ve been thinking about this and on an Fj60 there just aren’t too many things that could get damaged by battery connected backwards. Voltage reg maybe. Maybe alternator. Fuses unlikely. There just isn’t that much in a 60 the relies on electricity to run. Really can only be an ignition. Component, a small ground wire that burned up, or a relay. Still I’d really have to look at the wiring diagrams to get a feel for which circuits would suffer from reversed polarity.

my votes is to go through your ignition components.
 
Had the same issue pop up this weekend.
I replaced my battery cables/grounds with the very nice kit from @Fourrunner. When I went to fire it back up, the blower motor nor the AC would work, and when I pushed the choke in, the engine died.
A little research revealed that the largest of the 3 legs of the fusible link controls those items.
I pulled the FL and checked it for continuity. The 2 smaller legs were fine but the larger leg was loose and open when I wiggled it. Apparently, it was corroded and partially broke when I manipulated it to change the cables.
Soldering the wire/pin solved the issue but I ordered a new FL to be safe.
 

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