No Power to Idle Control Solenoid - Electrical Issue - Battery Cables Crossed (1 Viewer)

Joined
Apr 8, 2019
Messages
24
Location
Raleigh, NC
So long story short, in a rush I replaced battery in my FJ60, and accidentally criss-crossed cables (neg to pos, pos to neg). Quickly realized my error and connected cables properly. Since then, my truck won't idle w/o foot on gas. Figured out that there was no power going to idle control solenoid (fuel cutoff) on carb and if I hot wire solenoid to battery, truck runs and idles fine - until I wan't to shut it off, of course.

I'm also noticing the temp control switch and/or blower motor is not working. Had a blown fuse for dome light, replaced that but no other blown fuses. Radio also not getting power.

Have tried to bypass emissions control computer by grounding solenoid to carb screw but that doesn't work. Have also swapped fusible links but no change.

I've got 0.6 volts going to idle control solenoid with key in on position.

Any ideas?
 
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Messages
40
Location
Spokane, WA
 
I did the same thing, and have the same problem. For a while, it would idle well (and heater fan works) until the carb blower fan sensor closed (when engine warmed up). Plus, that blower fan got ruined, so it's been yanked for now. I tried pulling that blower fan's relay, no change. Might be a short in the sensor relay, if I can figure out which that is, I'll pull it too.

I wonder if a relay got fried, and can only deliver .6 volts for you (I think mine is delivering zero).
 
Joined
Apr 8, 2019
Messages
24
Location
Raleigh, NC
Sorry to hear you've got the same issues. I first replaced voltage regulator on alternator but that didn't change anything. I checked all of the fuses and circuit breakers under dash. I reset the heater circuit breaker but not sure it had actually been tripped. I had swapped battery fusible links after crossing battery cables thinking I had fried it, but I ended up putting my old one back on and that seemed to solve all of my issues. Not sure if I just got lucky somewhere or if my spare fusible link is bad. Also unplugged the emissions computer for a short while.

Is your alternator charging properly? Mine wasn't that's why I was thinking I had fried something with alternator first.
 
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Messages
40
Location
Spokane, WA
 
I fried my fusible link, had it repaired. And fried the alternator and voltage regulator, replaced.

I have zero volts to the carb fuel solenoid with key on warm, and hit or miss when cold. Emissions controller looks good, no bad connections anyway. (took it apart and checked all the connector solder joints (same with the other big relay next to it).

I think I have a flakey relay, going to pull all of them and test.
 
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Messages
40
Location
Spokane, WA
 
Have you checked the 'Engine Fuse' in the fuse panel?
Yeah, but I'll check again. It's something bad on that circuit. I still need to pull the cooling fan relay. Before it was 100% tied to the cooling fan sensor closing, and the heater and all gauge lights would go dark, so I thought the cooling fan circuit had a short in it. Now, they are both intermittent independently. Something's seriously fubared.

I'm just going to start opening every damn thing up, find the burned wire(s) or relay(s).
 
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Messages
40
Location
Spokane, WA
 
Fixed it! Bad corrosion on #3 contact on an M3 relay. (I think the charge relay, not sure, don't have a year specific diagram any more.)

[edit] Fixed temporarily. Next time I started it, back to old ways. This is killing my soul. Usually I can figure this stuff out easily.
 
Last edited:

Seth S

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Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
3,675
Location
Vermont
 
I’ve been thinking about this and on an Fj60 there just aren’t too many things that could get damaged by battery connected backwards. Voltage reg maybe. Maybe alternator. Fuses unlikely. There just isn’t that much in a 60 the relies on electricity to run. Really can only be an ignition. Component, a small ground wire that burned up, or a relay. Still I’d really have to look at the wiring diagrams to get a feel for which circuits would suffer from reversed polarity.

my votes is to go through your ignition components.
 

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