No gas in float after rebuild...here's why

[cps432]

I’m going to hijack this thread a little bit. My bowl isn’t draining and things are running fine. I rebuilt my carb with a Napa kit about two years ago and the plunger boot is already completely shredded and pumping gas out the top of the plunger.

Question, is this a problem for anyone else? Ethanol gas tearing up the rubber? Is the plunger seal bad? I REALLY do not want to rebuild the whole thing. Does someone supply just the plunger and boot? Or should I be digging deeper to find other issues? I don’t mind taking the top off just to change the plunger.

 

[FirstFJ60]

Well...it starts with a little time and a few pumps. I dont know if the precisely adjusting the lowered position helped or going back and spraying everything out.

 

[Spike Strip]

I’m going to hijack this thread a little bit. My bowl isn’t draining and things are running fine. I rebuilt my carb with a Napa kit about two years ago and the plunger boot is already completely shredded and pumping gas out the top of the plunger.

Question, is this a problem for anyone else? Ethanol gas tearing up the rubber? Is the plunger seal bad? I REALLY do not want to rebuild the whole thing. Does someone supply just the plunger and boot? Or should I be digging deeper to find other issues? I don’t mind taking the top off just to change the plunger.

Most of those generic zip kits from chain auto parts stores are junk. The rubber bits are very low quality, and the Accel pump is low-quality chi-com rubber and wears quickly and allows fuel past the seal.

The accelerator boot is avail from Mr T and will last. The Accel pump is avail too and is leather. I think cityracer lists both on his webstore.

In the future, buy a NAPCO kit only available from overseas: Japanese made and comes with leather pump and metal ring gaskets instead of fiber and even has an inlet screen on the needle and seat, like the OE.

 

[g-man]

Well...it starts with a little time and a few pumps. I dont know if the precisely adjusting the lowered position helped or going back and spraying everything out.

"with a little time" ...does this mean several attempts at turning the key? Turning the key an motor over (cranking the motor) several times will pump fuel back into the carb bowl.

 

[g-man]

Did you resolve the issue of the bowl draining?

 

[FirstFJ60]

"with a little time" ...does this mean several attempts at turning the key? Turning the key an motor over (cranking the motor) several times will pump fuel back into the carb bowl.

Yes...several attempts at turning the key. Before it was setting, it didn't take that many attempts to crank. Prior to the last time, no matter how many times I attempted it would not crank. I do the procedure of cranking it over 5 times, then pulling choke and pushing gas pedal ( 3 fast down and 3 up slow).... wait 20-30 sec and crank.

I hope I have resolved it... with the adjustments it the gas is perfect in the sight window and it does crank. My idle mixture screw was bent but I'm receiving another. It shouldn't make a difference since it worked prior to the sitting of Osiris. I followed your advise when took off the carb and put gas in the bowl (the last time I took it off) the gas remained in the bowl for 2 days with no leaks.

 

[FirstFJ60]

Well..it wasnt starting and im one not to give up. I was reading everything I could find on this forum. I happen find something what a procedure OSS recommended to do. I did it and Viola it worked on a cold start (35°F) and sitting more than 24 hours. Thanks OSS and Gman...Im smiling.

Heres what he said to do

 

[cps432]

Well..it wasnt starting and im one not to give up. I was reading everything I could find on this forum. I happen find something what a procedure OSS recommended to do. I did it and Viola it worked on a cold start (35°F) and sitting more than 24 hours. Thanks OSS and Gman...Im smiling.

Heres what he said to do

View attachment 2562697

Glad you figured it out! That’s a common thing with carbureted engines. I drove an old 66 ford stepside in highschool and that was the procedure every time I drove it no matter what. Sometimes my 60 behaves the same way. Shortcomings of antique technologies. They have their perks and plenty of drawbacks but carbs are a brilliant solution to a complex problem.

 

[FirstFJ60]

Well...it seems Osiris didnt feel OSS starting technique would work at the time. So, the carb is off again because Im not getting any fuel in the carb even though Im getting fuel pressure from line. I just rebuilt carb about 2 weeks and Carb dipped every part of the carb and it was clean. I just open up the carb and its all green and disgusting...what causes this in this short period of time?

 

[cps432]

Well...it seems Osiris didnt feel OSS starting technique would work at the time. So, the carb is off again because Im not getting any fuel in the carb even though Im getting fuel pressure from line. I just rebuilt carb about 2 weeks and Carb dipped every part of the carb and it was clean. I just open up the carb and its all green and disgusting...what causes this in this short period of time?
View attachment 2566865
View attachment 2566866

Wtf is wrong with your truck my brother?! That looks like acidic corrosion of some kind. Maybe salt water? I don’t know. I’ve seen brass corrode like that but that’s crazy. Damn.

 

[Spike Strip]

Well, the only way brass gets that green patina is Water, Oxygen, and CO2 ...

ETOH in Gasoline attracts H2O

But yours seems excessive in such a short time.

If you're not getting fuel into the float bowl and your pump is good and there are no restrictions, it's need/seat or something around there. Make sure you can blow thru the Air Horn where the Needle/Seat threads in.

 

[FirstFJ60]

Wtf is wrong with your truck my brother?! That looks like acidic corrosion of some kind. Maybe salt water? I don’t know. I’ve seen brass corrode like that but that’s crazy. Damn.

I have no idea. My truck ran great...then have almost of year of sitting and troubles began of getting it started. It will start after I put the carb on then it will not run and gas will drain from bowl. Thanks you both CPS432 and Spike Strip for the information. I'm going to do a ultrasonic clean then make sure everything is dried out and rebuild it again with a Keyser Carb kit. I'm just lost..

 

[Michael Hanson]

You did drain,clean the tank and fuel lines after it sat so long? Mike

 

[FirstFJ60]

You did drain,clean the tank and fuel lines after it sat so long? Mike

No, I did not. I did put fresh gas in the tank. I only changed the fuel filter which is clear. So, its the gas that making it turn color?

 

[cps432]

No, I did not. I did put fresh gas in the tank. I only changed the fuel filter which is clear. So, its the gas that making it turn color?

I bet your fuel tank is full of water from condensation my man. Drain it. Check for rust. Maybe disconnect your send and return lines and blow them out with air. Let that tank dry out for a few days. Try it again. Change the filter. Change the rubber lines.

 

[g-man]

Make sure you can blow thru the Air Horn where the Needle/Seat threads in.

This^^^ with the horn/ top section off the carb, move the float level (figure 6-68) and blow thru the fuel connection ...it should be sealed or tight ..no air gets thru

Then with the horn upright and the float hanging down (as in a low fuel in the bowl senario) (figure 6-69) blow thru again...now air should easily move through the needle valve and seat.

 

[FirstFJ60]

I bet your fuel tank is full of water from condensation my man. Drain it. Check for rust. Maybe disconnect your send and return lines and blow them out with air. Let that tank dry out for a few days. Try it again. Change the filter. Change the rubber lines.

Ok....i will do after snow melts. It just snowed here in va beach...hasnt snowed since Jan 2017. Anyway, If there is rust in the tank... should I use a dilution of muriatic acid, rinse very well, then let it air out? How much PSI should i use to blow.out the lines? Where is a good place to buy the rubber lines and how many feet should I get? Thanks guys

 

[FirstFJ60]

This^^^ with the horn/ top section off the carb, move the float level (figure 6-68) and blow thru the fuel connection ...it should be sealed or tight ..no air gets thru

Then with the horn upright and the float hanging down (as in a low fuel in the bowl senario) (figure 6-69) blow thru again...now air should easily move through the needle valve and seat.

View attachment 2567668

Good idea will do

 

[cps432]

Ok....i will do after snow melts. It just snowed here in va beach...hasnt snowed since Jan 2017. Anyway, If there is rust in the tank... should I use a dilution of muriatic acid, rinse very well, then let it air out? How much PSI should i use to blow.out the lines? Where is a good place to buy the rubber lines and how many feet should I get? Thanks guys

Enough psi to blow chit out the hard lines. You can get generic fuel hose from any of the standard parts stores. I’m not certain how many feet you need. Probably 10-15??
If you dump the tank and find hella rust you may want to drop the tank and have it serviced professionally. I couldn’t tell you how to fix it because that’s over my pay grade.

 

[cps432]

Eastwood.com has quite the selection for rust solutions. Tons of how to videos as well. Personally, I would just get a new tank if it was bad enough.