Had the #5 Cycl blow out the plug awhile back while driving. Motor shut down and coasted to a parking spot. Towed it home the next day and the motor wouldn't turn over once we checked things out. The spark plug was broken and the coil was damaged as well. Disassembled the front of the motor, pulled the TB, WP, and drivers side head. Replaced head with a rebuilt head, replaced all new TB/WP parts, removed and cleaned the intake, removed and tested starter, checked contactors on starter, tested starter at Oreilley's (tested out good) replaced starter. Put everything back together. The 30A fuse (Starter) in the small sub-box under hood (just to the side of the big box) was blown so we replaced it. All other fuses were good. Checked all related relays as well by swapping with one of my other 100 series LC's. Checked the main fuses on the battery positive terminal. All were good. Tried swapping ECM's (did the #4 & #13 pin jump) still no crank (so original ECM may still be ok). All the instrument cluster and dash lights and gauges work. We can hear the starter relay clicking when trying to start but no current is getting to the starter, its not actuating. Fuel pump and brake booster spins up when trying to start. Not sure what to check next......any ideas? we are dead in the water at this point (still) as to what to check/try next. thanks in advance for any ideas or insights!
No Crank-No Start -2002 LX470
- Thread starter Rokketz
- Start date
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I know this might sound stupid but did you check the immobilizer? maybe its something simple like that
- Thread starter
- #4
the security light goes out too when i put the key in the ignition. So dont think its related to the immobilizer.
Good Day Maybe some one that is real familiar with the 100's may chime in.
Check the wire on the crank sensor down low on (L) side drivers. In front of lower radiator (L) drivers side
This wire is supposed to be wired so wire goes behind not in front. Wire rubs on plastic and shorts. Engine will not run with this short.
There is a similar sensor if I, recall to timing belt under plastic front cover upper (R) driver.
Check the wire on the crank sensor down low on (L) side drivers. In front of lower radiator (L) drivers side
This wire is supposed to be wired so wire goes behind not in front. Wire rubs on plastic and shorts. Engine will not run with this short.
There is a similar sensor if I, recall to timing belt under plastic front cover upper (R) driver.
2001LC
SILVER Star
First you say it will not crank. To be clear: No crank, meaning crankshaft will not turn.
I assume you did spin crank 720 degrees after T-belt install. To check timing marks. So we know, there isn't any interference.
This was the first time starter out, since plug blew out of the head. Correct?
Have you tried shifting to N, when to start. The PNP (transmission lock out) sometime with age, if shift not slammed into park thinks its in gear R or D. Often by shifting to "N" it will start.
Are you sure signal wire housing connector start, click in and locked. So often the lock tabs are busted, so I replace the housing.
Are you sure the hot wire nut is on tight.
Are you sure the start grounds to block bolted down tight.
I once heard what I thought was fuel pump during a no crank. It was on a built rig with newish starter. I kept saying, likely battery issues. But owner & I finally (after about 1 yr) both agreed it was starter. So I replaced starter, all seems fine. But no crank happen again 10 or 20 starts later. It turned out to be a Slee battery cable assemble, was loose at one connection. It was found during no crank, when someone saw sparks. DUH. did I feel bad for replacing a starter.
I assume you did spin crank 720 degrees after T-belt install. To check timing marks. So we know, there isn't any interference.
Was this after no cranking. You then pulled starter out and tested. Reinstalled and still no crank. correct?
This was the first time starter out, since plug blew out of the head. Correct?
Fuel pump only runs when engine is cranking, as crank sensors picks up it spinning crank. So could you be mistake, that fuel pump was running.
Have you tried shifting to N, when to start. The PNP (transmission lock out) sometime with age, if shift not slammed into park thinks its in gear R or D. Often by shifting to "N" it will start.
Are you sure signal wire housing connector start, click in and locked. So often the lock tabs are busted, so I replace the housing.
Are you sure the hot wire nut is on tight.
Are you sure the start grounds to block bolted down tight.
I once heard what I thought was fuel pump during a no crank. It was on a built rig with newish starter. I kept saying, likely battery issues. But owner & I finally (after about 1 yr) both agreed it was starter. So I replaced starter, all seems fine. But no crank happen again 10 or 20 starts later. It turned out to be a Slee battery cable assemble, was loose at one connection. It was found during no crank, when someone saw sparks. DUH. did I feel bad for replacing a starter.
