Newbie to this site. Looking for my first FJ (1 Viewer)

[MtnGoat221]

Hoping to learn more to help in my buying process. Have seen a couple late 70s early 80s FJ40s.
After reading some of the BEST FJs it seems there are pros & cons to all years.
Any helpful advice would be appreciated. Decoding VIN # FJ40******?

 

[reddingcruiser]

Sorry, FJ Cruisers are in another forum. However, if you are looking for an FJ40, a 40 or a Cruiser, you're in the right place. Skip the VIN decoding, there's not much to learn. Just find a solid 40 that suits your style and tolerance for restoration, modification or pain, and go for it. If you want an opinion on a prospective candidate post some pics and the details. Trust me, there is no shortage of opinions here.

 

[reddingcruiser]

On a related note: it is easier to deal with mechanicals than rust. As I have said in other posts, I would rather go completely through the entire drive train than cut out a pile of rust. You're region is infamous for rust, so be careful and look at every shiny Cruiser with a cautious eye. A magnet can be your best friend when looking for a solid rig. Be prepared to crawl under the vehicle with a flashlight. If it's Rhino-lined top and bottom, turn around - quickly. If you can't see the spot welds on the side along the rear wheel tubs you need to ask why, because there is almost a 100% chance there is bondo there. The VIN will get you the year and month of manufacture, otherwise look for the features you want and buy accordingly. If you can't live without factory disk brakes, that puts in at around '76 and newer, If you like the windshield wipers on the bottom, then skip anything about 74 and older. Four speed? late '74 and newer.

 

[brian]

The vin is nothing more than a sequencal number for each unit.
There is no code of construction hidden in it.

 

[umsizi]

On a related note: it is easier to deal with mechanicals than rust. As I have said in other posts, I would rather go completely through the entire drive train than cut out a pile of rust. You're region is infamous for rust, so be careful and look at every shiny Cruiser with a cautious eye. A magnet can be your best friend when looking for a solid rig. Be prepared to crawl under the vehicle with a flashlight. If it's Rhino-lined top and bottom, turn around - quickly. If you can't see the spot welds on the side along the rear wheel tubs you need to ask why, because there is almost a 100% chance there is bondo there. The VIN will get you the year and month of manufacture, otherwise look for the features you want and buy accordingly. If you can't live without factory disk brakes, that puts in at around '76 and newer, If you like the windshield wipers on the bottom, then skip anything about 74 and older. Four speed? late '74 and newer.

Keep in mind that people swap engines. Check the block number and VIN inside the driver’s side door. You can convert VINs and block numbers to the month and year at $OR or CCOT websites.

 

[Living in the Past]

Keep in mind that people swap engines. Check the block number and VIN inside the driver’s side door. You can convert VINs and block numbers to the month and year at $OR or CCOT websites.

After the mid sixties there is nothing on a FJ40 that would have information that would tell if a engine block was original to the vehicle. Up to the mid sixties the engine serial number was on the plaque on the firewall.