Newbie doing knuckles (1 Viewer)

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Where did you mount the breather and what size rubber and brand? Pics are very helpful.
I used this kit from Marlin crawler it comes with everything you need. I ran the front up to the top of the firewall. The rear I added about an extra foot of fuel line to the hose that comes in the kit and ran it into the fuel door beside the gas cap.
 
I used this kit from Marlin crawler it comes with everything you need. I ran the front up to the top of the firewall. The rear I added about an extra foot of fuel line to the hose that comes in the kit and ran it into the fuel door beside the gas cap.
Thanks I think I can build for cheep I have lots of 1/4 hose from work and will grab a cheep fuel filter and clamps.
 
lots of cardboard, gloves, paper towels, seriously a lot of paper towels and patience. Like 3-4 rolls this is a messy job. I wouldn't wear anything you plan to wear outside the garage again.
 
lots of cardboard, gloves, paper towels, seriously a lot of paper towels and patience. Like 3-4 rolls this is a messy job. I wouldn't wear anything you plan to wear outside the garage again.
I got some garage clothes for sure. Still waiting on a couple parts and fluids ordering online is taking a bit, understandably so maybe two weeks I’ll get this handled. In the process of selling my other rig fj80. Hope that sells fast enough so I can blow some money after baseline stuff on a 4” lift and rack. Thinking Ironman local company and a bowfin rack.
 
I did mine this past weekend. Was not as bad as i expected. used a little over half of the very big blue shoptowel roles, far amount of gloves, hit the dollar store up for turkey pans, and plastic containers for sorting and cleaning. I got diesel and 5 gallons of simple green already, tried both, found simple green cleaned better but if you do that, you have to be sure to clean that off really well with brake cleaner before you start regreasing things backup. first one went slow. second one went fast. it was all the cleaning that took the most time. Prepacked the joints really well and prefilled most of the housing before installing the axel so i didn't have to work so hard to work the grease to the back with everything in the way. I had been waiting to do the front rotors and new pads until this job, so did that, and went ahead and installed new springs all the way around and did swaybar bushings. will be doing the other bushings later probably next week.

spatula from dollar store for getting the grease out and using less towels--- i really didn't get very greasy until i was sitting over the bucket cleaning the individual parts.
froze my bearing races to ease install-- was pretty easy
noticed that whoever was in there last (stealership according to paperwork) used a screwdriver to drive the bearing nuts in and out, same thing for all the cone washers etc. I guess if it was still in decent shape after all the miles after that slack job, you can probably feel really good about torquing to the right specs etc.
 
So I got some more parts just waiting on knuckle studs and nut huggers, while I was waiting I threw the cdl switch in and did the 7 pin mod. Easy job except for the dam wood kit they put in! It is already bubbling everywhere and as soon a i touched it it bubbled there to. Besides that 🍌 banana job.

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CDL switch and 7pin mod ? What is that for ?
 
So I tackled driver side yesterday knuckle was birfield soup, cleaned it all up, put in a cruiser outfitters seal kit with new koyo bearings, the kit is top notch. I used witts end seal driver to set the inner axle seal back 2mm nice tool. Bought a harbor freight race driver set for 30$ It’s a nice set for the few times I’ll use it. All in all it was a easy job torqued everything to spec. Installed new pads and rotors from power stop. I have used them for years and had no problems. I also used witts end nut huggers which give me a little piece of mind and a little bling while it’s still fresh.

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The one thing I could not find was a spec on the torque spec on new knuckle studs so I used blue loc tight and went with 20ft lbs. hopefully that’s enough please let me know if I am to light or heavy on the torque.
 
It allows you to manually control your locking center differential.
There is a bunch of threads on this it makes it so you can lock you diff in high range instead of having to shift into low to lock your diff than your front and rear lockers.
 
The one thing I could not find was a spec on the torque spec on new knuckle studs so I used blue loc tight and went with 20ft lbs. hopefully that’s enough please let me know if I am to light or heavy on the torque.

Hub studs are 26 ft. lbs, knuckle studs, the 4 within the nut huggers, are 71 ft. lbs.
 
Hub studs are 26 ft. lbs, knuckle studs, the 4 within the nut huggers, are 71 ft. lbs.
The fsm says nuts are 71 but does not list studs 71 would barry the shank that the cone washers sit on into the threads?
 
The fsm says nuts are 71 but does not list studs 71 would barry the shank that the cone washers sit on into the threads?
There is no torque spec for these knuckle studs. There has been huge debate on this. Some claim that a stud has no torque associated with it because it is the NUT that sets the tension in the bolt. For me, I didn't want a chance in hell of those falling out while I'm driving again. Some were concerned I would damage the threads in the ball by pushing the shoulder of the stud into it.

I have had zero loosening in 82K miles since I put it back together.

I chose to torque mine to I think 40 LB-FT and I used RED Loctite because I know the PO of mine hit a guardrail at some point and sheared off more than one of the studs. I caught it when only one was remaining and it was 3 threads from falling out. I torqued the nuts and cones (DRY) to 71 LB-FT and all is golden.
 
The fsm says nuts are 71 but does not list studs 71 would barry the shank that the cone washers sit on into the threads?
My bad, I did not read his question correctly !

The nuts are indeed 71 and I don’t believe there is a torque spec for the studs. My apologies...
 
Got the passenger side torn down definitely someone else worked on this side lots of bearing grease in the birf and different wheel bearing grease in the wheel bearing. Assembly tomorrow hopefully if the little ones give me enough time.

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Looking good! So glad to see this truck getting the love and attention. It had the knuckles worked on individually but never got the full Monty even though the club lined up for a volunteer rebuild for pizza and beer but eividntly the confidence lay in the Firestone guy vs some group of LC nuts. :lol:

after that early moment it has been mostly serviced by Renaissance auto. Nothing like doing it yourself and knowing it’s right now.
 
So got it all back together and am reading mixed thoughts on diff fluid, filled it with fsm spec 2.6 quarts but it never overflowed. Some are saying fill till it comes out fill plug others say fsm others say 3.5 quarts what do you guys think??
 
So got it all back together and am reading mixed thoughts on diff fluid, filled it with fsm spec 2.6 quarts but it never overflowed. Some are saying fill till it comes out fill plug others say fsm others say 3.5 quarts what do you guys think??
Fill it until it’s at the level of the fill hole while the truck is on a flat surface.
 

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