Be liberal with grease. I use about 35 Oz. of moly for the birf and knuckle on each side. It ends up as 5 14oz tubes needed.
Newbie doing knuckles (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Fj80oregon
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Fj80oregon
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Running 33 BFG don’t think that warrants ARP studs. Once things open back up (Covid) I’ll grab the harbor fright race set. Do I need the nut huggers I will never rock crawl just some nasty log roads and occasion sloppy mud trails hunting,scouting.Have an extra inner axle seal or two. You’re bound to screw ne up the first time installing
I like the cheap Harbor Freight seal installation tool.
Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set, 10-Piece
Amazing deals on this 10Pc Bearing Race And Seal Driver Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.www.harborfreight.com
And if your running large tires consider some upgrades like ARP hub and knuckle studs. And this 80 Series Nut Hugger- Toyota Solid Axle Knuckle
And now would be the time to do the front brakes if they need it.
Any recommendation besides a bucket of diesel for parts cleaner?
Brake cleaner, mineral spirits, acetone, Everclear, brake cleaner.
They're a great idea.
Some of the hard core or severely OCD guys are now running them.
Some of the rest of us, before these were invented, use RED locktite (God forbid!!!) to install them as well as torquing in the studs (no spec and heavily debated subject)
Do you HAVE to, no.
Hence the term:
Lube your shaft and check your nuts. Regularly.
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Need no, but good idea even with 33’s. I’ll be installing them next time I service my knuckles. I always use blue loctite and only find them loose once in a while when I check.
Fj80oregon
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Diesel is cheep and works great just get a bucket with a lid from depot an
So do I need arp or just new ones with red lock tite and the nut huggers?
just got a bunch of parts from witts end should have added to save on shipping.
Just get stock studs and the nut huggersDiesel is cheep and works great just get a bucket with a lid from depot an
So do I need arp or just new ones with red lock tite and the nut huggers?
Yea I know, I was replying to the other guy.Diesel is cheep and works great just get a bucket with a lid from depot an
So do I need arp or just new ones with red lock tite and the nut huggers?
Fj80oregon
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My bad didn’t mean to send the diesel comment.
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Stock studs and blue loctite will be fine. Red is pretty aggressive. Nut huggers would be an upgrade.
The main thing it to get in the habit of inspecting them. Failures suck.
The main thing it to get in the habit of inspecting them. Failures suck.
Fj80oregon
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- #32
But
What's so important about doing the brakes at this point? Just because you have to take the rotors/calipers off? I was planning on doing my brakes soon and knuckles in the future.Have an extra inner axle seal or two. You’re bound to screw ne up the first time installing
I like the cheap Harbor Freight seal installation tool.
Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set, 10-Piece
Amazing deals on this 10Pc Bearing Race And Seal Driver Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
And if your running large tires consider some upgrades like ARP hub and knuckle studs. And this 80 Series Nut Hugger- Toyota Solid Axle Knuckle
And now would be the time to do the front brakes if they need it.
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- www.durangomagazine.com
It’s not required by any means. But if you’ve got everything torn down I wouldn’t skip the brakes if they were nearing the end of their service life. Or take the opportunity to upgrade (different debate) if you’re running large tires.
Fj80oregon
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So I got some more parts just waiting on knuckle studs and nut huggers, while I was waiting I threw the cdl switch in and did the 7 pin mod. Easy job except for the dam wood kit they put in! It is already bubbling everywhere and as soon a i touched it it bubbled there to. Besides that 
banana job.
banana job.
Well there are a lot of options on what you can mess with as some have said. I went all oem on everything that came apart whether it needed replacing or not, except for the nitro axles.New brakes and rotors and steel lines too when i couldn't get the old calipers rebuilt.
I did red locktite and they haven't moved in 5 years , not surprising haha.
Also i had read way back when that one reason you can get seepage from axle to knuckle is clogged breather mechanics.
My breather up front was mass seized and i ripped it out and made my own that now sits on the firewall...The pressure and the clogged breather can push gear oil outward you see?
Have fun she is a messy joy!
I did red locktite and they haven't moved in 5 years , not surprising haha.
Also i had read way back when that one reason you can get seepage from axle to knuckle is clogged breather mechanics.
My breather up front was mass seized and i ripped it out and made my own that now sits on the firewall...The pressure and the clogged breather can push gear oil outward you see?
Have fun she is a messy joy!
Fj80oregon
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Fj80oregon
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Where did you mount the breather and what size rubber and brand? Pics are very helpful.
Well now then there..no brand cuz i made my own.
Run some appropriate good hose with a cheep fuel filter on the end, one of the tiny old school ones..
I ran it with various rubberized hose clamps and mounted it on the firewall next to the booster, up high.
Its not convenient to post pictures as i am one of those who has always refused to own an electronic tether ,cough, i mean cellphone.Never had one as i know what people were like before them.
I am with you in principle tho bud , should be easy to search out.
Run some appropriate good hose with a cheep fuel filter on the end, one of the tiny old school ones..
I ran it with various rubberized hose clamps and mounted it on the firewall next to the booster, up high.
Its not convenient to post pictures as i am one of those who has always refused to own an electronic tether ,cough, i mean cellphone.Never had one as i know what people were like before them.
I am with you in principle tho bud , should be easy to search out.
About 5ft of 1/4" fuel line hose, 3 or 4 hose clamps, and a Wix 1/4" inline fuel filter.
Get two of the rubber coated holding clamps (teardrop looking clamps) and drape the hose up over the booster. Try not to get the hose too short, leave a droop in it by the axle so you have full suspension flex without ripping it off.
Keep the filter in the vertical section up by the booster. Then about a 12" long tail section of hose to go over the booster and point down. Then secure it at the top of the arc and at the tail end. The loop over keeps an air bubble unit if you go deep.
