Newbie and 1986 FJ60

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KT88

KT88

Joined
Nov 4, 2009
Threads
6
Messages
34
Location
Charlotte, NC
Hey, guys! I'm new to the FJ60 world as well as to the IH8MUD forum, so I thought I'd introduce myself.

My real name is Don and I live in Mint Hill, just east of Charlotte. A friend of mine from work just sold me her 1986 FJ60 for very little money (some mystery is required, you know) but it has not been running for about a year.

I'm thinking about just yanking out the 2F and rebuilding it, so I did get started taking things apart, bagging and tagging the bolts, etc, but I thought I'd ask here if there was any way to check to see if a non-running engine was salvageable without having to do a full rebuild. Any tips\tricks\suggestions will be appreciated greatly.

There are photos of the process to date, but I have only a few available as they're still on my friend's flash drive, but I'll put up what I have. My goal is to rebuild the FJ60 to as close to stock as is reasonable as I want to use it on the road, at the beach and maybe some light off-roading. I may change out the 4 speed tranny for a 5, maybe a mild lift and maybe some upgraded seats.

I may reach out to you guys for advice on good machine shops in Charlotte, good places to buy a bull bar and roof rack as well as solicit specific technical tips on this build. I'm looking forward to getting this jewel on the road and meeting you guys out on the trails.

Cheers

Don
front_side_smaller.webp
 
Welcome, hope you've already had the official ih8mud salute...:flipoff2:

We are lucky to have a wealth of resources in this club and I'm sure one of them will chime in to give you way more input that I could. I'm just starting to learn about my 2F. I've got an '85 2F in my FJ45.

I'd guess that doing a compression test before you tear it down would be valuable. But, like I said, others will have much more to offer than I. Good luck...:beer:
 
Thanks for the welcome, guys; I'm looking forward to getting involved. The engine did not come with an alternator nor did it come with an AC Compressor, so is it possible to do a compression test "manually?" Or, can I just plug in a battery to see if it will turn over? The odom is showing 248k miles and there was no oil showing on the dip stick and very little coolant.

I don't want to do any more damage to it, but any and all suggestions are welcome! I'm ready to rebuild, but my budget warrants a calm and cool approach! :)

Thanks for the salute! I feel like one of the gang already!!:flipoff2:
 
Welcome, Don. add a couple qts of oil and see if it shows up on the dip stick. you don't need and alternator to do the compression test, just a good battery. Pull all the spark plugs then put the gauge one at a time and crank the motor. they should all be within 10% of each other. If more then that put a few drops of oil in the cylinder and see if that helps bring the compression up.

good luck and post up we will try to help.

Eric
 
Welcome Don, what exactly does the engine do when you try to start it.
Before that though make sure all fluid levels are ok. Fill up the crank case and the coolant and check both diffs, the tranny and the t-case.
Compression tests are easy to do just pull one plug at a time and hook the tester up. It is hard to kill these engines so most likely it isn't anything major wrong with it.

Also glad to see i'm not the only one with a primered fender in the club anymore.
 
I pulled mine out of a field. It needed a charge to the battery and a new starter and it started right up. You don't need the compressor (its own belt if I remember correctly) or the Alternator (same I believe). Mine was out of oil for some reason as well when I picked it up. I filled her up put a battery in and it started on the first crank...no don't expect to get lucky becuase I had a 3FE but it shouldn't be to hard. Make sure to get some starter fluid or a little gas down the carb the first time helps as well.

I have faithin in this one that you are going to score a running rig by the end of the weekend.
 
Sounds like you started to take the motor apart already? If so, then I guess just keep moving in that direction for a full rebuild. If you have not, then I would take time first to see if you can get it running as is!!

Either way, they are a cool ride!!
 
DON, welcome aboard.

Nice start you got there. You might want to read through this thread that was up recently on the natl'l forum that has some other suggestions. Waking one of these beasts from a long slumber shouldnt take much more than half an hour if nothing is really wrong.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...8-yrs-what-should-i-use-cyl-before-statr.html

Depending on how far youve gotten with the teardown you could just see if you cant get it going before carrying on. As mentioned if still intact, try the compression test (autozone rents alot of these tools if convenient). If youve already gotten the head off, then just do a visual on the cylinders and piston heads. If it looks good you may decide to go ahead and have the head rebuilt (or at least a valve job) new headgasket, manifold gasket, reasemble and go.

I just built a 2f on a budget but its no 350 and it will cost you around 1200-1500 if your doing alot of work yourself, more like 3 if you drop it off at a shop. Id go for a valve job and gaskets and have fun.

Look at the the front axle to see if the knuckles are weeping indicating a rebuild soon. And then browse around and get familiar with the truck as you do some preventative maint.

As for the build,
5 speed might be difficult, without a spendy adapter or even spendier japanese transmission.
Youll want a lift. Especially if you hang out with us :D NOT even for wheeling's sake, but improve the ride and saftey aspect and it will keep that overhang off any trails if you do venture.

Check out the for sale section in the sticky section as well as the recommended shops in your area thread. see ya on the trails, or better yet head out the farm for the meet n greet in Early February.

jason
 
In my best "Slingblade" voice, "Ain't got no gas in it, mmmm". :flipoff2: Welcome!!

As others have said, check compression first, go from there with spark and fuel. More specifics will follow once you get some compression numbers.

:beer: R
 
WElcome! Keep your eyes peeled here on the boards or post up in the wanted section. bull bars and lifts come up for sale If you want to pull the trigger on a new ARB hit up 4wheelparts and ask for aaron. They will match any price.

There some great cruiser mechanics if you ever need to ask questions on the engine down in Fort Mill. I think the biz is called J &M Automotive but Its really called Toyota Techs and they know cruisers better than anyone around here without a doubt!
 
She runs!!

Guys, thanks for the welcome and for the words of encouragement. I did put in a battery today, added some started fluid and turned the key...and she ran! I am really impressed with how well it sounded! She ran for about 30 seconds, but she ran!

There are several problems that I noticed immediately:
1. Oil was leaking out of the head, from just behind piston 5: I"ve seen this on the site and it seems to be a known issue, with the fix being to tap a hex screw into the hole.

2. There is some kind of "shadetree" fix on the steering gear
that looks really unsafe. (see photo). I'm not going to drive it this way, so if anyone can point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it greatly.

3. The ignition key doesn't "spring back" from start into run - I'm presuming that is a missing spring, but it was getting late and I didn't have time to really inspect it. When I turned the key, it stayed int he "Start" position and the starter continued to run, so I put it back in the "Run" position and all was right in the world.

4. I need to change the fuel filters, add some fresh gas and replace some of the cracked vacuum lines on the carb.

It did only take about an hour to get all that done! Very cool and very encouraging!

I really appreciate the help and I'll keep you guys posted on how things progress! I may make it out to the farm in Feb (thanks for the invitation) but I may have to take my daily driver!
FJ60-10.webp
 
Looks like the steering stabilizer to me, but I'm no 60 guy. I've seen posts where people don't run them if you have powersteer, but throw a new one on. You should be all right, just don't take any bumps too fast, you're arms are going to be taking the jarring motion, rather than the stabilizer.....
 
KT88 said:
3. The ignition key doesn't "spring back" from start into run - I'm presuming that is a missing spring, but it was getting late and I didn't have time to really inspect it. When I turned the key, it stayed int he "Start" position and the starter continued to run, so I put it back in the "Run" position and all was right in the world.
Click to expand...

I have this EXACT same problem on my newly acquired FJ40. I think in my case it is a miswired ignition switch. The previous owner was 'hotwiring' the truck to start it. I rewired the ignition how I thought was correct but like you the starter continues to turn until you turn the key back to the left one notch.

When I find a fix, I'll let you know...

Congrats on getting it running. Feels great and really doesn't take much to get these motors to run :bounce:.
 
CONGRATULATIONS. It is always pretty easy on these things. I was working for a few days on a fj in Colombia that had been sitting 6+ years and I couldn't get it to run more than 15+ seconds either. Turned out I had to clean and rebuild the carb. If you've had fuel sitting in there for years it could have gummed up your float and jets. You may be able to get away with some new fuel, fuel cleaner, and a quick carb clean without full disassebly.

I had a similar problem but on my 40 with the key. Mine was worse though becuase I could turn it back and take the key and and the starter would keep turning until the truck turned on and then it would turn off. There is probably a fix on the 40 or 60 tech board somewhere for it. My guess it is on the starter seleniod (I think there is another fuse/switch before power is sent to the starter seleniod), or more than likely a new ignition tumbler in this case.

As far as the steering you are fine. That is just the steering stabalizer. A little hodgepodge but they were probably having problems with it slipping on the bar. It won't effect the safety of driving the rig any. You have a real score there. I hope we get to see it at the farm.
 
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