Newbie and 1986 FJ60

[KT88]

Thanks, guys; I'll try the 5/16 x 24 tap this week to plug the oil galley. Should this be a "bottom" tap or a "plug" tap?

I'll check the compression once I get the "bleeding" to stop.

 

[southerncruiser62]

Plug Tap, and be sure to be careful doing it and if head is still attached to motor run a shop vac whlie drilling and tapping to suck out all metal shavings.

 

[shinton]

That picture just looks like a steering stabilizer and looks "ok" to me? I suspect that other bump with the hole through it would be for a factory version of the same thing.

Chances are this was just an after market kit and they are using the saddle looking things to hold it in place. Even if it is moving, you are getting "some" stabilization, which is better than none.

I would like to see a picture of the other end of that, to see if you can move it closer and use that stock mounting place instead?

Or the shock might fully extend that far.....or you might can pick up a stock replacement that bolts in both STOCK mounting locations just fine!

Very cool to hear you got it running before rebuilding. Honestly I would just keep working on cleaning it up, possibly rebuild the carb, but otherwise there is a good chance that motor is fine!

NOT MINE, but you mentioned a tranny earlier in thread...seems like a good price to me?

http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80378

Fj 60 4spd tranny was working when pulled.

$50.00

Pj 336-909-2076

 

[KT88]

Oil Galley plug FIXED!

Hey, guys; sorry for the delay in posting, but I've been wicked sick (nasty stuff going around here in Charlotte) and am now getting back up to speed on things.

Last weekend, when I was snowed in, I tapped the Oil Galley hole, applied the plug (with Red thread lock) and it works! No more oil leak.

Thank you guys very much for the help! I'm now focusing on the fuel system as it seems that it's not getting any fuel (it will run for as long as there is starting fluid in the carb, about 15 - 20 seconds). I will have a look at the compression this weekend and will post up the numbers (and some pictures!).

Again, thanks guys for the help; this stuff is addictive!

 

[southerncruiser62]

first place I would start is the fuel pump, your site glass on the carb should be about half full most of the time, even when shutting the vehicle off, if theres none in it then you have a issue getting fuel to the carb. Sounds like the issue. Keeps us posted.

 

[KT88]

Compression numbers and Carb

Thanks, Greg. I did take the hard line out of the carb to see if any fuel was getting in (there was fuel in the sight glass) and yup, gas was pumping everywhere when I turned the key. Do you think it's time for a rebuild or is there something a bit simpler to do first? If it is time for a rebuild (the engine sat for at least a year without starting before I got it) can you recommend a carb rebuild kit? Do I need an OEM kit or would NAPA have something?

Also, I did get the wet compression numbers over the weekend and here they are, in PSI:

C1 = 95
C2 = 94
C3 = 96
C4 = 55
C5 = 99
C6 = 40

Looks like 4 & 6 are way out. Any ideas? Rings?

Thanks

Don

 

[S4Cruiser]

I have heard others having luck with the Napa kits, not sure which one you would need though. I took the easy route and sent mine to JimC for a rebuild.

Those compression numbers are low and you're right 4 and 6 are way out.

Did you do the test with all of the plugs removed or just the one you were testing for compression. I think all need to be removed.

If those readings are accurate then looks like a rebuild is definitely in the near future.

 

[KT88]

Update on FJ60 Rebuild

Hey, guys; sorry for the looooong silence between posts: life has been getting in the way of my rebuild. I do have an update, with some photographs.

I did manage to settle into a new place that has a garage, so I'm taking the opportunity to pull the engine and start the teardown process and get this to the machine shop.

I think I've uploaded 2 photo's (still not used to this; I plan on providing photo's as we go along). The first photo is a shot of the cylinder head and you'll notice a great number of burned valves; it's a mess. I pulled the heads a few days ago and my heart sank when I saw the extent of the burn. I will be having these heads rebuilt, if they're rebuild-able. I'm not sure what causes damage of this magnitude and would welcome any thoughts.

The second photo is of the side of the engine, showing the lifters - particularly, the BROKEN lifters! Again, my heart sank. I'm not sure what the heck happened to cause that, but I'm really hoping that there is no adverse effect on the block. I guess I won't really know until we Magniflux.

She came apart well; only 1 broken bolt (lifter cover) and a stripped nut (water pump). Pulling the head bolts has given me a new respect for working out!

A few questions: Can anyone suggest a machinist in the Charlotte area who specializes/understands 2F engines? Also, I need to purchase a 46mm socket - can anyone recommend a brand? I've seen the ones at HF and frankly, they don't seem to be worth the money - I'm leaning towards Sears Craftsman (as my already weak budget can't bear a Snap-on)

The carb WILL be going out to JimC for a rebuild once money flows back into my bank account.

Thanks for the help guys; more pic's to follow as the rebuild continues.

 

[lt1fire]

Sent you a PM. We are having a meeting at mountain island lake this week.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Wow, those lifters are toast! Definitely time for a rebuild.

As for large sockets, I've had good luck with Craftsman. I have their 54mm socket ( 2 1/8" I think? ) and it works great.

 

[KT88]

Yeah, seems quite catastrophic! Once I get the crank shaft out, I'll have a look at the "other end" of those lifters. I've been leaning towards the Craftsman, but it's good to hear positive feedback.

Here's a shot of the top of the block - I have a question about the brass "head gasket alignment rings." Shall I take those out before I take the block to the machine shop and if so, how? They're really attached well!

Thanks

Don