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Bigtinasoup

Bigtinasoup

Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Threads
2
Messages
13
Location
Hampshire
Hello all.

My first post, and very new to the 70 life. I picked up my 1992 Prado SX 2.4 2LTE yesterday and I am in love!

(1) However. She won't go into 4wd. She will go into diff lock in both 2wd and with 4h and hub lock. Both the lights illuminate and only one of the air valves on the fire wall is doing anything. The one with the blue plug is getting signal but not responding. And it sounds like the valve is stick open.

(2) The steering is very light, is this normal? I'm used to a 90.

(3) The fuel pump resistor mod, what are the "GAINS", and how easy a job is it to do. (also turning up the fuel pump and boost, is that possible?)

Many thanks. I'm so impressed with this car. I was worried about buying her as I've wanted one since I was a child. It is my dream car. And I was concerned it would be a never meet your heroes situation.
I do alot with a military charity, off reading ect. And I want to set my truck up as a solid off reader with not to bad Road handerling. And able to plod about a pay and play day dragging people out of holes. What your you lot advise? Suspension, wheels ect.

Anyway, a long post with alot of questions. Had to get it written down or I would forget.

Many thanks and I hope to get to know you all in the future.

Jack.

(also, why on earth does anyone buy a land-rover when these are an option!!!???)
 
I don't have much time at the moment, and there is so much I could write. Will try to answer your questions quickly. (Edit, ended up writing more than I thought...LOL)

1. Good job finding the dead VSV. This is a common problem. Happens to the 60 series cruisers with vacuum transfer case also. Happened to my LJ78 a couple years ago. Happens to 4runners/HiluxSurf too. Just grab another VSV from a Toyota at the wreckers that has the same connector. Can be any VSV from an emissions system ect. You can buy a new one also. Use Toyodiy or Megazip to find your part numbers. Many places to order from these days. The reason it burns out is the one VSV solenoid has current running through it all the time apparently. Eventually it succumbs.

2. I find the steering light too. Nothing wrong with that I don't think. If the king pin bearings are getting worn out it can cause the vehicle to have a strange 'tracking' feeling while driving. Hopefully that is not what you are experiencing.

3. I've messed a lot with tuning the 2LTE, and my recommendation is not to touch the resistors on the injection pump. I did this for a while and had potentiometer setup etc. What I found is the one that adjusts injection timing is bang on (unless your pump is worn). Advancing it will only cause stress to your engine. The fuel resistor only adds fuel low in the rpm range (before boost kicks in). It makes the throttle too sensitive, reduces fuel economy and carbons up your motor from running too rich.

If you want a little more power, get a manual boost controller and raise the boost up to around 12psi. The computer will automatically add more fuel. If you want substantially more power, intercool the motor, increase exhaust diameter and raise the boost to around 17-18psi (post intercooler). Turn up the spill control valve adjust about 1/3 to 3/4. No more than 3/4 in or you will get a run away motor the next time you rev it. The spill valve adds fuel where the motor is in boost. This is where you want fuel added, as you can still maintain safe AFR ratios. There is more to it, and I've done a write up on how to tune this motor for about 50% more power. As posted above, there are many other ways to improve the motor too. Will share more later when I have time.... In the mean time, please search and read, search and read, search and read. There are some good examples of tuned up LJ78's in the forums, and lots of technical ideas for modifying these trucks.

Congratulations and welcome!
 
Jack,
Yes, that was my first impression too. Soft suspension and less responsive / vague response on the steering.
I’ve learned to love it on the trail and still dislike it on the pavement.
Life is all about trade offs, I guess.

Welcome!
Don
 
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So. I've replaced the little valve and it is clicking and air is moving. Now when you turn the hubs on both the hub lock and 4h lights illuminate.

Also, no noise at all comes from the hubs, so I'm guessing a hub disassemble clean and lube is in order?

Cheers folks, a am really falling in love. Im thinking, subtle winch I'm the bumper, title lift, a roof rack and a set of the steel off road landcruiser wheels.

Lift kit suggestions anyone?

Jack.
 
Bigtinasoup said:
(2) The steering is very light, is this normal? I'm used to a 90.
Click to expand...

Landrover steering is terrible. The steering on your LJ71 will be less maintenance. The Dobinson suspension kit is considered the best for these, they were the first to offer an aftermarket kit (over 30 years ago). Their heavy duty kit is the best and may improve the steering by lifting the rear a small amount.
You can also experiment with tyre pressure to improve the feel of the steering. Ive always liked a little more pressure in the front than the rear unless I'm carrying a full load.
 
So, I tried to encourage the hubs with a hide face. I encouraged them to much and cracked my front passanger auto hub cover.

What a tool! So anyone got any for sale!
 
My front hubs work flawlessly (so far!) and make no noise whatsoever. Probably the best way to test them is to push the button and then crawl underneath and try to spin the front driveshaft.

On my last LJ78 one hub would be slow to engage every once in a while, and there would be a slight grinding noise if I tried to drive before it engaged.
 
The motors have burnt out. Help!!!!


Is there a relay? I can't find one. I also need motors. Cheers.
 
Bigtinasoup said:
The hub motors are both burnt out. So how do I get one and how do I replace it?

HELP!!!

Cheers.
Click to expand...

Tons of threads on this, so do some reading. Basically, the most common thing is people break the hub brushes off when they service the hubs or brake rotors. Or in some cases the brushes just wear right out because of improper maintenance with the right grease etc. So one option is to try to fit some new brushes. This is pretty technically advanced, because you can't just buy the right ones, so if you're new to mechanics it might not be the best option. Another option is to buy some adapters and switch to manual hubs. This is probably the best option, but will cost you a bit. You can also source the spindle and hub from another land cruiser that came with manual hubs and put it onto yours. All these options have been well covered on ih8mud, so just search.
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
Tons of threads on this, so do some reading. Basically, the most common thing is people break the hub brushes off when they service the hubs or brake rotors. Or in some cases the brushes just wear right out because of improper maintenance with the right grease etc. So one option is to try to fit some new brushes. This is pretty technically advanced, because you can't just buy the right ones, so if you're new to mechanics it might not be the best option. Another option is to buy some adapters and switch to manual hubs. This is probably the best option, but will cost you a bit. You can also source the spindle and hub from another land cruiser that came with manual hubs and put it onto yours. All these options have been well covered on ih8mud, so just search.
Click to expand...

I can do the mechanical stuff, not the computer stuff. I can't seem to find the part number for the motors.
 
Bigtinasoup said:
I can do the mechanical stuff, not the computer stuff. I can't seem to find the part number for the motors.
Click to expand...

Why do you think you need the motors? In most cases, it's the brushes in the hub (that contact the slip rings on the spindle) that are the problem. When the motors don't get power because of broken or worn brushes, they won't work. What I did with mine was found some motor brushes that were a similar size. I machined them in a manual mill to the right size and installed them. Has worked great in the five years since. You could just file the brushes to size too.

If you search, there is a front axle .pdf section from the Toyota manual I uploaded a while back that includes the section on electric hubs and how to take them apart, test them and service them. If you can't find it, I'll search also. This question comes up from 1990+ 70 series owners about every four months.

EDIT: I searched for you. Here is the .pdf instructions. Have a read so you understand what you're getting into: https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/rm183e_sa-pdf.1289363/

The way most people damage the e-hubs is by not retaining the brushes when the put it together. The brushes get smushed sideways and thats the end of them.
 
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The shop canalbalized one of the small motors and the gears that may be the difference between riding home and walking home are not worthy of a Timex watch. The ones on my 77 Series currently work but they don't give you that warm and fuzzy feeling when you're off road. Installing manual hubs is probably still the best option in my opinion.
 
The motors were the wrong colour. I'm buying a set of manual hubs as I need her reliable for off road lessons.
 
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