New to me 80

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Gas...lots of gas
 
I think I have some inner bearings and races used but in good condition if you are in a pinch- Temken can be found and are an OEM equivalent- search for part numbers in the 80's thread or call George/ Orangefj45.
If the cage isn't rubbing don't sweat it.
Buy the big tubs of grease that match the spec of OEM- if you look on the tub it will list the applications, lithium spec'd out for disc brake wheel bearings withstands the higher heat. The moly is more for the higher pressure "rub" in the birfs vs. the high speed rolling of the bearings. Amsoil products are excellent.
Mix the gas with diesel or use all diesel- I've had an excess of stale gas and use it to clean but I don't want to be "that guy". I try to just use straight gas at the final stage of cleaning and don't smoke while I do it. Carb clean blows the grease out of the birf nicely too..
 
I don't want to be "that guy". I try to just use straight gas at the final stage of cleaning and don't smoke while I do it. Carb clean blows the grease out of the birf nicely too..

I know that not smoking thing must be hard on you.:rolleyes: :meh: :D
:cool:
 
Thanks Kief I'm glad I took the time to pull it back apart and repack those "trunion" bearings with the fancy smancy red grease now. Greeting ready to go drop it off the jack stands, torque the lug nuts and go for a test drive.

I did have to clean up the dust shelf I bit more though.

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This was where I had to leave of yesterday when I left for my appointment in Roseburg.

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Get that really really thick grease and just pack it and re-torque. Gotta be good for a while longer, maybe after Mcgrew. ;)
 
Oh geez.... who told you to do it that way?????? :flipoff2:

I usually break down my birfs to clean them before new grease, makes it a lot easier. :cheers:

Great looking work man!!!

But what is your technique? I've heard there's the risk of breaking the thing if not done right or even if done right.
:cool:
 
I dont typically break birfs down. Although i have done it. Following fsm. Nit terribly fun.

I wash good in parts cleaner and pack grease through axle hole and pack with shaft until dirty grease gone
 
Oh I almost forgot to post the build for my HAM radio speaker mounting bracket.


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Short version: HAM requires licensing and CB is open to anyone that can buy a radio.
With licensing requirements we can push more power, resulting in farther, cleaner (less squelch) communications.

CB used to be a licensed band as well but was open to public use years ago. The band is actually one of the longer distance frequencies so with enough power you can actually get out a lot farther on the CB band than the two meter and 440 we use.

But back to topic. Two meter, the band we use most often, has far less traffic and with more amplification of signal, a much cleaner signal.

That may be clear as mud but it's early and I'm still fuzzy. :flipoff2:
 
I somewhat get what you mean. So the majority of you guys use ham's instead huh?

Trying to get everyone on board there. The club will pay for your HAM test ($15) upon passing.

HAM is sooooo much better. :)

They offer the testing in Medford at the VA and GP (forgot the location) every couple months. There is free online practice tests.

There is links somewhere in here to the info. Radio's can be had cheap for a handheld until you install one in your truck (more power for truck installs VS handheld)

There is 7 or 8 of us now on HAM. I hate turning on my CB now.
 
So I finally pulled the exhaust manifold to repair all of the broken studs and get the o2 sensors mounted so they might stop throwing code (although I still think its likely at least one needs replaced). Anyway the manifold came off easy enough. The studs on the other hand were not so cooperative. I did however only need to drill one completely and tap from scratch. I'm most concerned with the three flange holes I needed to re tap, there wasn't much material left so I'm not sure if the threads will hold or not. But worse case I'll just go back to the smaller grade eight bolts and nuts I had been using and wait for Matt to get going on his swap so I can buy his :grinpimp:.

Some of the nuts with pieces of studs. Unfortunately on more than one of these the weld didn't fail, the stud sheared off several times before finally coming all the way out.
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This is the hole I had too actually drill because the stud broke too deep to weld a nut on, and the easy out failed.
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You can see the threads that were still left from the stud even after finally getting most of it out.

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Anyone know what this is and what it does?



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