New to me 80

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Hey it might be too late now but in some cases I have found that you can save quite a bit of money for bearings going to these guys.((((Motion Industries Inc - 586 Mason Way Medford, OR 97501)))) Best way is to bring the bearing in and they will measure it right there on the spot. Just a suggestion..
 
That's awesome thank you! I think it's too late for this time, but I will keep that information for next time!
 
Thanks gnob, I feel better that I couldn't have saved a few bucks. The first is only a week away, but it'll be a long few days.
 
I know right!?!? That bottom bearing is $30 and the only place that can even order it is the dealer. I called every pays house in town and from the part description nor the part number could they find a listing. With studs, conical washers, lock washers, nuts and the two oil seals I'm still under a hundred bucks though.

There was a part number in the aftermarket I found ("prolly" on MUD) that I used on my 60 series. I believe the angle of the bearings on the outer contact side was a tad different. Seemed to work but I don't have the number.
Since the 60, I've just used OEM on those particular items.
JMTC...there you go.:rolleyes:
:cool:
 
Thanks Russ, I did find a thread but from what I gathered OEM was the only one of proper spec...
 
Oops I forgot to mention that there were only two studs, the other two are gone. Well one gone and the other sheared off. I'm not looking forward to trying to remove the half still in the knuckle housing.
 
Stud was challenging, thank you camoj

ForumRunner_20140128_123320.jpg



ForumRunner_20140128_123331.jpg



ForumRunner_20140128_123342.jpg

ForumRunner_20140128_123320.jpg


ForumRunner_20140128_123331.jpg


ForumRunner_20140128_123342.jpg
 
Getting there, waiting on parts

ForumRunner_20140128_125610.jpg



ForumRunner_20140128_125624.jpg

ForumRunner_20140128_125610.jpg


ForumRunner_20140128_125624.jpg
 
What do you guys think? This is my inner wheel bearing. Spins free and I see no signs of heat damage. But the cage is bent. For seventy five bucks I'm incline to reuse this one....

ForumRunner_20140129_143120.jpg



ForumRunner_20140129_143132.jpg

ForumRunner_20140129_143120.jpg


ForumRunner_20140129_143132.jpg
 
Well I was well on my way to getting finished today, then my buddy came by with a brake problem. If the guts of drum brakes aren't in the right places amazingly parking brake doesn't work. lol

ForumRunner_20140129_175745.jpg



ForumRunner_20140129_175759.jpg

ForumRunner_20140129_175745.jpg


ForumRunner_20140129_175759.jpg
 
Making progress finally. But how much grease in a birf?


ForumRunner_20140130_094458.jpg



ForumRunner_20140130_094507.jpg

More! One whole tube and what was left in two others.



ForumRunner_20140130_094621.jpg

But looking closer to assembled at least.

ForumRunner_20140130_094458.jpg


ForumRunner_20140130_094507.jpg


ForumRunner_20140130_094621.jpg
 
So now that spindle is back on I read fsm and supposed to pack bearings with lithium grease...I used Molly graph for bearings and knuckle. Thoughts?
 
I used to use a Lithium based water proof grease for heavy duty boat trailers. In my 40
 
Thanks Russ, I did find a thread but from what I gathered OEM was the only one of proper spec...



Tru dat! :D
Not sure about moly in the wheel bearings though. Mr. Toyota specified lithium in the wheel bearings for a reason. Good enough for me.
You may have read this or know this, but when you button up the steering arms, it's recomended to use the tap and tighten method so the arm seats up nice and tight. JMTC FWIW!:rolleyes:
Onward boy,
:cool:

p.s. what was your technique for removing the moly from the birf bell?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom