New to me ‘66 40 (2 Viewers)

[Living in the Past]

This weekend I drained the fluid from the axles. The front axle however was pretty nasty. Not sure why the fluid was gray, if just from really being really old, or if there was some contaminate in it. Looks like water droplets but it was just air bubbles.

Probably from condensation.

Could also be from grease in the knuckles. These early Land Cruisers do not have seals just bronze bushings.

 

[Oregon FJ40]

This weekend I got the wiring done for the new wipers. Turned them on and immediately popped the fuses. Will trouble shoot that later.

I got the soft top sold and freed up some funds for new axles. Bought a set of ‘76 axles which I will get stripped and new bearings and seals before putting them under the rig. Will also do a rear disc conversion so I don’t have to run a dual channel brake system.

Also got the hard top “on,” I say that figurative as it will not seat all the way down. Anyone know if there is a trick to getting the top to settle down?

 

[Drake2]

Today I got the soft top removed so I can start prepping to put the hard top on with a new seal kit. Unfortunately, multiple screws are either broken off, of the internal but has spun off and I can’t get the bolts out. That includes one of the bolts that holds a mount for the soft top. Guess I’ll be pulling the dremel and doing some cutting. Also picked up some stainless bolts to get the roll bar put back in. Definitely a homemade one by the PO but will suffice for now.

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Keep in mind that many SS bolts are not rated for loads. For mounting any safety equipment you will want to use either Grade 5 or Grade 8 in imperial units or 8.8/10.9/12.9 in metric. Checks the heads for markings and make sure what your using is adequate for the purpose.

 

[Oregon FJ40]

Keep in mind that many SS bolts are not rated for loads. For mounting any safety equipment you will want to use either Grade 5 or Grade 8 in imperial units or 8.8/10.9/12.9 in metric. Checks the heads for markings and make sure what your using is adequate for the purpose.

Thanks for the tip, did not know that. Previous bolts were pretty rusted and needing replacement. Will be sure to get good bolts in there.

 

[offrd63]

Unless the PO replaced the headlight buckets with something that isn't OEM, the chrome rings are not stock and not necessary. You still have the 4 holes for the OEM bezel to make it look like a proper FJ40.

I have the same rings on my 63. They havn't been changed. It matches the chrome spear. There are other little bits of chrome around the signal light indicators Also stock. The ash tray has a chrome ring. All Stock

 

[offrd63]

It doesn't look like you got an answer to the wiper question. I've got a '67 and looked into replacing the tired wipers and even started to install a pair of marine units with stainless covers. Look like a very close match... except the wiring is backwards from what we have. The switch goes through the ground wire on the new one and through the hot wire on the old ones... I think I have that straight- but in any event it didn't work with the existing wiring setup, so I ended up repairing what I had. But it would've been nice to make the new ones work because they didn't act like they were about to keel over with exhaustion like the old ones.

I ended up trying these wiper motors too. It's been a while but I believe the trick was change from switching the hot wire to switching the ground wire, leaving the hot always connected. I hope that makes sense . I mad notes on my schematic I'll check it.
Yes, that's how I did it too. If you just use 2 new motors it doesn't matter if it's backwards

 

[Drake2]

Thanks for the tip, did not know that. Previous bolts were pretty rusted and needing replacement. Will be sure to get good bolts in there.

 

[Oregon FJ40]

I ended up trying these wiper motors too. It's been a while but I believe the trick was change from switching the hot wire to switching the ground wire, leaving the hot always connected. I hope that makes sense . I mad notes on my schematic I'll check it.
Yes, that's how I did it too. If you just use 2 new motors it doesn't matter if it's backwards

I did leave the hot always connected, through the fuse of course, the ground wires completing the circuit, and the park wire through the switch. I used jumper wires and had the system working prior to install so I know they work. Apparently switched something around somewhere....

 

[offrd63]

Our wiring is probably the same color code. If you don't figure it out pm me and we can compare notes

 

[daner]

A couple random thoughts:

I’m curious to see what your plans are for a master cylinder if you go with disc brakes.

Can’t wait to see the yellow paint disappear!

Also-I’m beginning to think you intentionally titled this thread (..66 FJ) to agitate those who feel the need to correct others (“it is not an FJ!!!”).
I like it.

 

[pjohnson]

I don’t have to run a dual channel brake system

I strongly suggest you reconsider this for safety. A single circuit brake system fails entirely if there is any leak or failure in the system. That means ZERO brakes. This is the reason manufacturers stopped designing brake systems this way in 1967 and they became mandated by 1972.

Your hardtop may not be seating all the way due to obstructions in the B-pillar from bolts, garbage, dirt, etc. I think there may have been some differences in length of the hard top post throughout the years also.

 

[Krondor]

Along with the safety concept, it is really easy to run a dual channel brake system with or without a brake booster. Without a brake booster, you do not have to do any cutting/modifications, there are bolt on brackets that you can purchase. If not for your safety, think of others. You have a heavy steel vehicle that could lose brakes at upwards of 60 MPH, without air bags or any safety buckling points.

 

[Oregon FJ40]

A couple random thoughts:

I’m curious to see what your plans are for a master cylinder if you go with disc brakes.

Can’t wait to see the yellow paint disappear!

Also-I’m beginning to think you intentionally titled this thread (..66 FJ) to agitate those who feel the need to correct others (“it is not an FJ!!!”).
I like it.

I have not researched the master cylinder issue much yet and I frankly don't know much about it. I did not grow up working on cars, just now got into it in my 40s now that I have the means for the toys. As stated by PJohnson and Krondor above, apparently dual channel is the way to go. Based on limited reading on the subject so far, I thought that was only necessary due different pressures needed for disc front and drum rear. Apparently not the case at all. I will go disc all the way around specifically for safety (police officer by trade and I know what happens to bodies in bad crashes) and want to make sure the system in adequate. I'd be super appreciative for any advice on what the best systems are for the master cylinder..

As stated I got a set of '76 axles I'll get all prettied up before I put them underneath the rig. Current plan is a SOR disc conversion for the rear, but it is only single piston calipers, so might due more digging for options. But maybe for a rear axle, single pistons might be sufficient.

Yellow paint has got to go...so awful. But that is last priority, want to get drive train all taken care of so might be a couple years of ripe banana color.

And as far as thread title, I wish I could take credit for intentionally stirring the pot, as I so love to do. I thought I had referred to the vehicle correctly when I typed it. Apparently it was a cardinal sin as through I had purposely turned a bezel upside-down, all while kicking a puppy and drinking whisky with crushed ice in it.

 

[Krondor]

I just put in a new FZJ80 master cylinder along with a city racer dual diaphragm booster and wilwood proportioning valve to go with my all around disc brakes. Just like you, I got a '76 front axle but kept my original rear and used the chevy caliper disc brakes in the rear.

For the brake lines, I used Rainman brake lines for the firewall and I bent and flared all of the axle lines myself. Looking back on it, I wish I would have just purchased all of them from Rainman.

I did a write up here:

Builds - 1965 FJ40, What Have I Gotten Myself Into?

Great progress thus far! Very nice work. Just reading from beginning to end it seems you have grown leaps and bounds in every aspect. My boys 14 and 16 are going through this very thing with their own projects. Best thing they have done to grow. I spent 19 years in Nairobi. I too learned to...

forum.ih8mud.com

Feel free to ask me any questions that you have.

 

[Oregon FJ40]

I just put in a new FZJ80 master cylinder along with a city racer dual diaphragm booster and wilwood proportioning valve to go with my all around disc brakes. Just like you, I got a '76 front axle but kept my original rear and used the chevy caliper disc brakes in the rear.

For the brake lines, I used Rainman brake lines for the firewall and I bent and flared all of the axle lines myself. Looking back on it, I wish I would have just purchased all of them from Rainman.

I did a write up here:

Builds - 1965 FJ40, What Have I Gotten Myself Into?

Great progress thus far! Very nice work. Just reading from beginning to end it seems you have grown leaps and bounds in every aspect. My boys 14 and 16 are going through this very thing with their own projects. Best thing they have done to grow. I spent 19 years in Nairobi. I too learned to...

forum.ih8mud.com

Feel free to ask me any questions that you have.

Awesome, thank you! Will hit you up with the time comes.

 

[Oregon FJ40]

So far this weekend I have figured out the wiper motor wiring (just had two wires switched) and have them working.

Next item was ta tackle a leaking clutch line. The PO replaced (poorly) the slave cylinder using a incorrect adapter with the wrong thread diameter and tried to address the leak with copious amounts of teflon tape. Ugh. Father in law is taking the part to a place today get get the proper one for me and I will be able to shift again without dumping fluid all over the place.

Also finished getting the Pertronix ignition installed and motor roared back to all its 50 year old 1F glory. Runs considerably better now with all cylinders firing.

I spent some time trying to figure out why the hard top is not seating all the way down. I found the lip from the hardtop in front of the windshield is actually sitting on the new wipers. Might need to trim out a bit of that lip. Is it possible this hard top is from a different model year? Not sure why else the cut outs would be positioned where they are. Also the mounting holes on the outer edges of the windshield seem to be wrong. The passenger door is touching the mount on the corner, the drivers door has tons of clearance.

 

[reddingcruiser]

Yep, wrong year hardtop (or valance).

 

[vegas702]

very nice rig

 

[Oregon FJ40]

Yep, wrong year hardtop (or valance).

That is what I was afraid of. Any idea if there is a way to tell what year it is from so I can sell it and get the proper one? Or if it can be modified to work. I obviously can nut out that lip to make space for the wipers.

 

[Oregon FJ40]

very nice rig

Thank you, although it has a long ways to go. Slow and steady...