New Owner DIY Questions (2006 LC with 110K miles)

Discussion in '100-Series Cruisers' started by mgsmith125, Nov 9, 2018.

  1. mgsmith125

    mgsmith125

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    Hey All,

    I just bought a 2006 Land Cruiser with about 110K miles on it. The maintenance records were pretty good with no major issues as far as I saw. I deleted the ACH myself and replaced with 1.5" OME medium kit, new 33" Goodyear wrangler Trailrunners, brake pads, rotors. I have a couple questions on some things that I want to do myself since all of it at a shop would add up to thousands of dollars.

    -Replace fuel filter ---bought a Fram one, looks easy but wondering if gas pressure is in the lines I have to wrench
    -Spark Plugs---was thinking of going with Champion Iridium because of the price but have seen mixed reviews. OEM spark plugs are 16 bucks a piece at a shop and come out to 400 bucks with labor included.
    -PCV Valve---Very Cheap on Rock Auto. Can I trust this valve or is this another OEM necessity
    -Fluid exchanges---I have change the power steering fluid myself. Shop recommended Transmission fluid replace, trans case gear oil drain and fill, brake fluid drain and fill, coolant drain and fill. Am I missing anything here?
    -Grease and re torque prop shaft---seems easy enough
    -T Fittings/Hoses Check --- not familiar with this. What hoses are proned to failure?
    -Fuel injection service --- Is this necessary and can I do this myself (dont really buy into the stuff they say you can just pour into your gas tank at this point but maybe im wrong)
    -CV Left Inner Boot grease leak. Been told its a new axle job which makes sense given the labor. I think I could do this myself but also been told its not a big deal until you hear the "pop" noise during a turn

    I think that is everything Ive read about maintenance along with what a couple of shops have compiled for me including independent and dealership. Is there anything crucial or preventative that im missing here?
     
  2. KershZ71

    KershZ71

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  3. mgsmith125

    mgsmith125

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    I have been seeing that as well. Those are much better priced than what Firestone,Dealership, and shops have quoted. Thanks for the link!
     
  4. Leandro

    Leandro

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    I used Denso spark plugs, as recommended in the owners manual. They were about $6 each at rockauto.com.
    Easy job, 1 hour labor.
     
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  5. cmck

    cmck

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    Lots of folks see the heater T’s breaking down and getting brittle as they age.
     
  6. Hokie LX

    Hokie LX

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    1. No pressure in the fuel line because the engine is off. I changed mine and a little fuel dribbles out so definitely have a rag on hand but it won't shoot out with pressure. I went with OEM filter FYI but up to you.
    2. As stated above, buy OEM plugs online and install yourself.
    3. Just get an OEM PCV valve, it's like $6.

    5. Definitely do this and keep on top of it. I do mine every 2 oil changes or 10k miles.
    6. Search for "Heater T's" on the forum and buy a set. Don't touch yours until you have replacements in hand as they will almost always break apart.
    7. Personal preference on this one. I use seafoam every now and then.

    All of these you can do yourself.

    I'd also check to see if the T-belt (and all associated parts) has been replaced as you are past the 90k interval.
     
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  7. mgsmith125

    mgsmith125

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    ____

    Thanks for your input. Yea I guess for small parts there isnt much pricing difference from OEM to Rock Auto Aftermarket. The fuel filter is 50 bucks OEM though lmao it is just a cylinder with thick paper in it essentially so not worried about that. Ill be changing the fluids out in the next 5K so should be good there. Heater T's probably have never been changed so will get on that. The timing belt is overdue. Getting it done today actually but paying a shop because dont have time or outright confidence this go around after watching OTRAMM video on youtube. Ill definitely do it at 200K myself.
     
  8. dace voit

    dace voit SILVER Star

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    Whenever you can, use Toyota parts or the OEM supplier, like Denso. They tend to last longer and by keeping the trucks parts in spec, it will be less likely behave erratically. FWIW, I stay away from Fram anything except maybe the cabin air filter.

    Read up on the transmission fluid change for your truck. If you don't already know, it's not just a simple drain and fill process. It's not hard, but you need to know what to do before you drain the oil out. Toyota likes to call it lifetime(unless you tow a lot), but I don't buy that. You're at the interval where I will change mine.

    For the CV boot, you might be able to get away with simply snugging down the clamp(s) a bit and see if that helps(if the boot isn't torn). Make sure you clean the area very well so you can see if it keeps leaking. If the boot isn't torn you can either drive it until the leak gets bad or replace the boot. If the boot isn't torn then there is no reason to replace the axle if it's not clicking. They aren't hard to R&R. Plus, you can repack the front wheel bearings and check snap ring gap if that hasn't already been done recently. I've read on here that guys will get boot leaks after a lift as the "normal" angles that the axles operated at have been changed. I've no experience with this but it makes sense.
     
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  9. shevy77

    shevy77 SILVER Star

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    My Notes from '06 LC - replacement of both vent system hoses and PCV valve at 147,650 miles (Parts total was $39.99 + tax after receiving 25% club discount at local parts counter)

    Part No.: 1226250080 (ID 12262)
    HOSE, VENTILATION, NO. 2 - ($16.53) $13.51
    Part No.: 9046720010
    CLIP, VENTILATION, NO. 2 - ($1.41) $1.15 ea. (qty. 2)

    Part No.: 1226150070 (ID 12261)
    HOSE, VENTILATION - ($22.11) $18.08
    Part No.: 9046715021
    CLIP, VENTILATION - ($.95) $.78 ea. (qty. 2)

    Part No.: 1220450030
    PCV VALVE - ($9.96) $8.14

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    upload_2018-11-9_13-1-28.png
     
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  10. mgsmith125

    mgsmith125

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    Fram stuff probably isnt the best but for now will be better than the original which is probably used up. Im changing transmission fluid this weekend so will be sure to follow process (I dont believe it is lifetime fluid either). The CV boot is not torn but is leaking from the clamps so I really hate to spend money on something that could simply use a remedy. I appreciate the feedback.
     
  11. jerryb

    jerryb

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    Pfran sells good rounded worm gear clamps for CVs.
    i'm kicking myself for not having a real good look at valve covers. When you do your front differential fluid have a real good look up there. I should have done it a long time ago.
    Fuel pressure bleeds almost all the way off in 8-10 hours. First 3 hours is kind of messy.

    AND whne you do the front diff it's also easy to add a drain extension to the AC evaporator just above the diff fill plug on the fire wall. Follow the dripping water, 5/8" or 16mm
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2018
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