Why remove the AC? Seems like a nice upgrade.
"New" NoVa FJ40 Owner and Mud Member - '78 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter mgrs
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- Thread starter
- #22
It is nice, but I am not sure I need it. I pulled it to stabilize rust in the near term, but am not sure if it will go back in.
I have been driving the truck and could take or leave the A/C. I am almost tempted to find and reinstall a factory heater assembly (front assembly, at least) and lean in to the fact that I am pretty much driving a convection oven.
The more I mess with this, the more I am tempted to keep some modifications (power steering, lift, onboard air/locker, 5spd, console) and remove or get back to OEM some of the other things that had been kludged in over the years.
Truck is at Full Awn Fab now getting uncut front bumper brackets put on and a new shift lever fabricated that will make the H55 lever look like a factory 4spd.
I didn't realize @OTRAMM was just behind Full Awn until I saw the line of wagons in back...
- Thread starter
- #23
Couple small changes:
#1- damaged/cut bumper brackets removed, used OEM uncut brackets installed. The CCOT bumper was on sale and the cheapest winch mount bumper I could find at the time, but I did not realize it would be this heavy.... 3/8" plate.
#2- 4spd factory shift cane welded to 5spd shifter base; angle adjusted. Much better; will reinstall outer boot.
Now (in 2nd)
in N
Have been driving the truck in current heat with the A/C out. 99% at this point it won't go back in.
-Can someone measure how far an OEM heater box protrudes from the firewall?
-Any interested in a complete vintageair kit w/ compressor, A/C radiator, etc?
#1- damaged/cut bumper brackets removed, used OEM uncut brackets installed. The CCOT bumper was on sale and the cheapest winch mount bumper I could find at the time, but I did not realize it would be this heavy.... 3/8" plate.
#2- 4spd factory shift cane welded to 5spd shifter base; angle adjusted. Much better; will reinstall outer boot.
Now (in 2nd)
in N
Have been driving the truck in current heat with the A/C out. 99% at this point it won't go back in.
-Can someone measure how far an OEM heater box protrudes from the firewall?
-Any interested in a complete vintageair kit w/ compressor, A/C radiator, etc?
I just tagged you in the ONSC clubhouse.
1MOA
SILVER Star
Couple small changes:
#1- . The CCOT bumper was on sale and the cheapest winch mount bumper I could find at the time, but I did not realize it would be this heavy.... 3/8" plate.
-Can someone measure how far an OEM heater box protrudes from the firewall?
-Any interested in a complete vintageair kit w/ compressor, A/C radiator, etc?
You can beat the living snot out of that bumper and it will be perfect.
The heater box comes off the firewall 7-5/8" (19.36cm) Looking at your pics is that a non USA spec 40? It does not have the fan, fan box heater box or lines or attachments for the heater or the heater valve or even a mounting for it on the outside firewall. You might want to reconsider putting the vintage air back in and running that. If you do want to part ways with it I am interested in it.
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- Thread starter
- #27
Thanks all for the responses.
Vintage air kit is an 75080 LTZ-A. Also have the compressor and compressor/alternator mount brackets but I do need a factory type alternator mount.
With work and family scheduling, it will be a couple weeks before I can get everything removed and cleaned up. Only the evap subcase assy is removed at present.
Hmm, you've got me thinking. I assumed this had the provisions for a factory heater box:
Right most green circle I assumed to be the passenger side half of the box mount backing
Center green circle looks like a patched hole for heater hoses.
Left circle... no idea. Looks like something was there.
Thank you for the box measurements. Is that 7 5/8" throughout, or only in places? Asking because I'd like to keep the twin kicker mount on the trans hump pictured earlier in the thread.
Vintage air kit is an 75080 LTZ-A. Also have the compressor and compressor/alternator mount brackets but I do need a factory type alternator mount.
With work and family scheduling, it will be a couple weeks before I can get everything removed and cleaned up. Only the evap subcase assy is removed at present.
Hmm, you've got me thinking. I assumed this had the provisions for a factory heater box:
Right most green circle I assumed to be the passenger side half of the box mount backing
Center green circle looks like a patched hole for heater hoses.
Left circle... no idea. Looks like something was there.
Thank you for the box measurements. Is that 7 5/8" throughout, or only in places? Asking because I'd like to keep the twin kicker mount on the trans hump pictured earlier in the thread.
- Thread starter
- #29
Firewall looks to be good for that Have since acquired:
- 2 speed blower assembly
- blower screen
- correct front heater, pipes, grommet, firewall valve, ductwork with defrost ducts
- New OEM radiator, hoses, clamps
- OEM spare tire carriers (2); will pick best to keep
- New PS pump, pulley, belt
- New OE fan belt
- OE alternator bracket
- OE Aisin carb ('77)
- New emblems
- Coolant overflow/washer fluid bracket
- Coolant overflow/washer fluid reservoirs
- Junker headlight bezel (rust/pitting free and media blasted but bent)
Did last weekend:
- Removed rad and rad support for rust remediation
- Removed remaining A/C parts, compressor, compressor/alt bracket
- (almost) complete rebuilding and refinishing blower assembly. Blower motor had loose magnet- reglued magnet and cleaned brushes/armature assembly
- Mounted/balanced matching spare tire on refinished original spare wheel
--- Hung the 1970s spare as tire swing for kids
- Epoxied broken orignal grille emblem back together and replaced screw (was broken in half and missing screw)
- also beat the the dent and bends out of the junker bezel with wood bucking pieces and primed it; does not look too bad... original bezel (rust perf and pitting) for comparison:
Got badly delayed going through the claim and replacement process for the first OEM rad I ordered... had to have been a restock as why would Toyota be so dumb as to pack it with the drain cock extension attached?
On the docket for this weekend:
- install replacement PS pump, pulley, v belt
- Grind/paint frame rust under radiator support; install radiator support with neoprene shims
- Install replacement radiator (maybe keep old hoses until end of winter)
- Install OE alt assembly and OE fan belt
- Drill/tap filler out of spare carrier weld nuts ( I think they are all still in place)
- Install spare carrier, hook, and pad
- Replace tail light gaskets
Need to get it ready to go to fall crawl...
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where did you buy the radiator from? I have never seen one with the drain pre-installed.
In the future, large delicate items should be ordered through your local dealer so you can inspect before your purchase - and not pay shipping.
In the future, large delicate items should be ordered through your local dealer so you can inspect before your purchase - and not pay shipping.
- Thread starter
- #31
Toyotapartsdeal.com
They are clown shoes and break or lose a lot of things, but I have always gotten decent parts in the end at no extra cost after the claims are finished and replacements shipped. This was just under $300 shipped from them added to an order I had in place. All three local dealers within 40 minutes wanted $540 for it.
Replacement rad has a slight bend to the inside of the input barb that will come out; that's it. Not even any bent fins on either side.
I think the first one they shipped was a return as this one shipped with the extension taped to the side and a taped seal over the drain.
- Thread starter
- #32
Well, this is annoying.
Replaced the grinding/screaming PS pump and warped/wobbly pulley but nothing aligns. It had a two-groove pulley that aligned, but now does not. I have both a new single groove and new two-groove press on, but neither align like the old two groove.
The new pump also had the pump clocked a few degrees off from the old in the reservoir so the fabbed brackets had to be ground.
It's either put the old bent pulley back on or use washer stacks on the mount as a spacer unless there is a better way....
Replaced the grinding/screaming PS pump and warped/wobbly pulley but nothing aligns. It had a two-groove pulley that aligned, but now does not. I have both a new single groove and new two-groove press on, but neither align like the old two groove.
The new pump also had the pump clocked a few degrees off from the old in the reservoir so the fabbed brackets had to be ground.
It's either put the old bent pulley back on or use washer stacks on the mount as a spacer unless there is a better way....
- Thread starter
- #33
May go with a more elegant PS mount long term, but this brings the belt into alignment and seems solid.
Rebuilt/refinished 2-speed blower assembly from @76FJ40. Reglued the loose magnets and cleaned up the armature/brushes.
Spare carrier from @hyhpe. Some patina but complete with no pitting and intact bushings, pad, and hook. Was able to tap the fiber filler and bed liner out of the upper hinge nuts but the lowers had been filled with welds and had to to be removed. Lot of bondo on the lower rear quarters. Bumperettes and taillight guards are refinished and will go back on this week.
New radiator in with alternator relocated to OE location with correct fasteners from @cruisermatt. Will tap the paint and filler out to put a overflow/washer tank assembly back in this week some evening and figure where the hose and wire routing is supposed to go. Heater might go in, but I do not think I will get it rebuilt/refinished before Thanksgiving.
Rebuilt/refinished 2-speed blower assembly from @76FJ40. Reglued the loose magnets and cleaned up the armature/brushes.
Spare carrier from @hyhpe. Some patina but complete with no pitting and intact bushings, pad, and hook. Was able to tap the fiber filler and bed liner out of the upper hinge nuts but the lowers had been filled with welds and had to to be removed. Lot of bondo on the lower rear quarters. Bumperettes and taillight guards are refinished and will go back on this week.
New radiator in with alternator relocated to OE location with correct fasteners from @cruisermatt. Will tap the paint and filler out to put a overflow/washer tank assembly back in this week some evening and figure where the hose and wire routing is supposed to go. Heater might go in, but I do not think I will get it rebuilt/refinished before Thanksgiving.
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- Thread starter
- #34
OK, have had a lot of down time away from this with home renovation work, family, and just work in general.
Fall crawl was a hell of a shake out- found two fuel leaks, and got the juices flowing enough to find more stuff- knuckles leaking, trans/tcase seals are leaking fast, and PS is pretty bad (boiling over when used on the trail) .
Finally got around to checking out the off-camber fuel leak situation (a couple here were probably in my fall crawl group when this happened I think @1MOA might have been there).
A recent replacement tank, and seems like the leak was coming from the filler vent hose connection. Clamp was loose and had slipped off; hose is dried solid and shot. 14mm sound right?
My highly calibrated sniff test is saying the filler elbow isn't doing so well, either.
Image below shows the leak location and direction it flowed along the top of the tank. You can see by the fluid marks that a fair amount of gas was standing on top of the tank. It had certainly pooled on the floor boards.
Does this look right for the hardline-to-rubber configuration at the tub grommet?
Also, what's that little two-pin off the harness for? Rear heater blower?
Was also leaking under the hood between the frame hardline and fuel filter; maybe not what a fuel line should look like... this was hidden under some foam heat stuff:
You can see the now bare barb here, and next to it the return line that terminates in a bolt that has been hung high up on the firewall. At least it's clamped:
Closer look at the fuel line config with punctured hose out... you can also see one of the many connectors-to-nothing under the hood on this thing...have not tried to track down what it goes to yet.
What... what does this barb go to? It runs along the frame to a cavity under the tub:
Other thing found was that I'd lost a caliper pin out of the RR brake caliper. Who knows how long it was out, but it ate the bracket threads on the way out. Drilled out and put in a 7/16x20 helicoil. Figured out that I must have a JT rear brake kit with....
80+ eldorado calipers? They're pretty cool as they have a built in e brake.
Figured I would just go ahead and rebuilt the calipers since they are off, and pretty sad from neglect. Have some rebuild kits on the way so I hope I got the caliper year right.
Also in the near term:
- Get the final 33" Toyo mounted on the spare (moved from 31s to 33s)
- Rebuild knuckles; they are leaking
- Install inline PS fluid cooler; replace PS lines
- Find cleaner PS pump mount solution
- Have aisan carb core rebuilt to replace current EMPI carb; find OE airbox
- Install replacement bib hinge (current is frozen in wrong position) and shim
Mid term, I really need to reseal (probably the trans output) transmission to T-case. It leaks from the H55 into the split case, fills the T-case, and leaks out the drive shaft.
Fall crawl was a hell of a shake out- found two fuel leaks, and got the juices flowing enough to find more stuff- knuckles leaking, trans/tcase seals are leaking fast, and PS is pretty bad (boiling over when used on the trail) .
Finally got around to checking out the off-camber fuel leak situation (a couple here were probably in my fall crawl group when this happened I think @1MOA might have been there).
A recent replacement tank, and seems like the leak was coming from the filler vent hose connection. Clamp was loose and had slipped off; hose is dried solid and shot. 14mm sound right?
My highly calibrated sniff test is saying the filler elbow isn't doing so well, either.
Image below shows the leak location and direction it flowed along the top of the tank. You can see by the fluid marks that a fair amount of gas was standing on top of the tank. It had certainly pooled on the floor boards.
Does this look right for the hardline-to-rubber configuration at the tub grommet?
Also, what's that little two-pin off the harness for? Rear heater blower?
Was also leaking under the hood between the frame hardline and fuel filter; maybe not what a fuel line should look like... this was hidden under some foam heat stuff:
You can see the now bare barb here, and next to it the return line that terminates in a bolt that has been hung high up on the firewall. At least it's clamped:
Closer look at the fuel line config with punctured hose out... you can also see one of the many connectors-to-nothing under the hood on this thing...have not tried to track down what it goes to yet.
What... what does this barb go to? It runs along the frame to a cavity under the tub:
Other thing found was that I'd lost a caliper pin out of the RR brake caliper. Who knows how long it was out, but it ate the bracket threads on the way out. Drilled out and put in a 7/16x20 helicoil. Figured out that I must have a JT rear brake kit with....
80+ eldorado calipers? They're pretty cool as they have a built in e brake.
Figured I would just go ahead and rebuilt the calipers since they are off, and pretty sad from neglect. Have some rebuild kits on the way so I hope I got the caliper year right.
Also in the near term:
- Get the final 33" Toyo mounted on the spare (moved from 31s to 33s)
- Rebuild knuckles; they are leaking
- Install inline PS fluid cooler; replace PS lines
- Find cleaner PS pump mount solution
- Have aisan carb core rebuilt to replace current EMPI carb; find OE airbox
- Install replacement bib hinge (current is frozen in wrong position) and shim
Mid term, I really need to reseal (probably the trans output) transmission to T-case. It leaks from the H55 into the split case, fills the T-case, and leaks out the drive shaft.
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1MOA
SILVER Star
I would get the fuel lines (5/16") replaced and work through the filler leak first. (Yes that was me behind you at fall crawl and yes you made the right choice bailing at the end) I could smell your fuel in my truck behind you so I can only imagine what it was like in the truck.OK, have had a lot of down time away from this with home renovation work, family, and just work in general.
Fall crawl was a hell of a shake out- found two fuel leaks, and got the juices flowing enough to find more stuff- knuckles leaking, trans/tcase seals are leaking fast, and PS is pretty bad (boiling over when used on the trail) .
Finally got around to checking out the off-camber fuel leak situation (a couple here were probably in my fall crawl group when this happened I think @1MOA might have been there).
A recent replacement tank, and seems like the leak was coming from the filler vent hose connection. Clamp was loose and had slipped off; hose is dried solid and shot. 14mm sound right?
My highly calibrated sniff test is saying the filler elbow isn't doing so well, either.
Image below shows the leak location and direction it flowed along the top of the tank. You can see by the fluid marks that a fair amount of gas was standing on top of the tank. It had certainly pooled on the floor boards.
Does this look right for the hardline-to-rubber configuration at the tub grommet?
Also, what's that little two-pin off the harness for? Rear heater blower?
Was also leaking under the hood between the frame hardline and fuel filter; maybe not what a fuel line should look like... this was hidden under some foam heat stuff:
You can see the now bare barb here, and next to it the return line that terminates in a bolt that has been hung high up on the firewall. At least it's clamped:
Closer look at the fuel line config with punctured hose out... you can also see one of the many connectors-to-nothing under the hood on this thing...have not tried to track down what it goes to yet.
What... what does this barb go to? It runs along the frame to a cavity under the tub:
Other thing found was that I'd lost a caliper pin out of the RR brake caliper. Who knows how long it was out, but it ate the bracket threads on the way out. Drilled out and put in a 7/16x20 helicoil. Figured out that I must have a JT rear brake kit with....
80+ eldorado calipers? They're pretty cool as they have a built in e brake.
Figured I would just go ahead and rebuilt the calipers since they are off, and pretty sad from neglect. Have some rebuild kits on the way so I hope I got the caliper year right.
Also in the near term:
- Get the final 33" Toyo mounted on the spare (moved from 31s to 33s)
- Rebuild knuckles; they are leaking
- Install inline PS fluid cooler; replace PS lines
- Find cleaner PS pump mount solution
- Have aisan carb core rebuilt to replace current EMPI carb; find OE airbox
- Install replacement bib hinge (current is frozen in wrong position) and shim
Mid term, I really need to reseal (probably the trans output) transmission to T-case. It leaks from the H55 into the split case, fills the T-case, and leaks out the drive shaft.
I believe your " what is it" line question is the line for the carb back to the charcoal canister on the stock smogged set up. Mine is de-smogged and I do not use that line at all.
As far as your PS set up if the washers put the pump in the right spot just run them if you want it to look nice weld them all together and paint them black or measure the thickness and cut a bushing with iron pipe and use that instead. As far as a PS cooler I would definitely go with one I think your fluid was boiling out as you were running it in the turns and you could see the pump was lagging from not being able to move the fluid.
As far as a carb I would get a good late model 2F carb from a 60 and rebuild it and just cap off the 3 vacuum lines you don't need. I had mine rebuilt by a club member almost 5 years ago and it has run flawless. With all the people want ing the sniper EFI set up there are actually more carbs avaiable now than in years past.
If you do your birfs put new shafts in there while you are there and rotors on the outside if you are tearing it all apart anyway (I know that's a lot of mission creep but it will be a solid new front axle when you are done.)
- Thread starter
- #36
Will get after the fuel lines under the hood and rear brakes this weekend
Regarding the "mystery barb".... that close to what it is. I didn't think to look at the emissions system parts diagram instead of the fuel system until after I posted. It is for what would have been part of the plumbing from the vapor separator (gone) to the charcoal canister (also deleted). Is there any benefit to getting a vent system back in there? It looks like my (now capped) return line is basically the vent.
PS system definitely needs something, was getting a lot of fade and trouble steering later on the trail. Got a small inline cooler that I'll mount inside the fender.
Why the 60 carb? Have a '77 40 core I planned to get rebuilt.
Mission creep is the name of the game here. I'd planned to take a look at the shafts and replace the if they looked bad, rotors I'll clean up. The brakes on this were recently replaced in the scheme of things and look pretty lightly used for the most part. We'll see where it ends.
