New MV-90 Compressor
- Thread starter azTony
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Just sayin for other to be aware
ChaseTruck
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Yes, same here.
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- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
If you change fittings, make sure they are all free flowing, so the hose/head doesn't build pressure when not connected to the tire. I don't see the "need" to change the quick disconnect or any of it, if it working? The quick disconnect is standard everywhere but here, they are good fittings, better than most of what is common here. The "problem" is they aren't common here, IMHO doesn't matter, never going to plug anything else into it?
- Thread starter
- #66
6 gauge? How many amps does that Puma pull? Maybe you are looking for a longer cord.
What gauge is Kevin using on his Puma?
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I have 6 gauge to rewire. Now it has 10 gauge, undersized due to my poor job of measuring the draw. It works, but there is voltage loss, so is the potential for better performance/life by going to larger conductor.
inkpot
SILVER Star
As Phil helped discover, I have 6 going to a bus strip on the side of the front passenger seat. I'm going to tap into that and go 6 on to the Puma. If it is a big enough problem/lose of voltage, I can rewire it later. I think 6 was the heaviest connector offered on the page that Kevin posted up. John
I along with others have been using #10 to run the Puma for better then a year. I discovered the amperage was a lot higher then we first thought. I have since metered it. With the LC running putting out 14V I barely read 12v at the compressor. So #6 will be a lot better then #10. Ideally you want voltage loss to be no more then 3% if more you up size the wire. National Electric code rates #6 at a max of 50A then you are meant to take loss into consideration. Just make sure your vehicle is running no matter what size you end up with.
inkpot
SILVER Star
I have several industrial supplier catalogs at work I want to search thru, like WayteK. I haven't had time to look yet. If I have to get 50 or 100 feet, I may be parting it out to anyone else that is interested. I'll post up as soon as I find what we need. John
You are correct as usual. It works as is. I just don't like the hose. It is so stiff I end up dragging the compressors around on the ground when I do the rear tires. A small thing really.
Good to know, in the past I have been know to be lazy and use my car jumping battery pack to add a bit of air to a low tire.
inkpot
SILVER Star
So far, I have found welding grade cable at 6 gauge, rated for up to 600 volts, for about a $1 per foot. then I have battery cable at 6G rated up to 60 folts at about 75 cents a foot. Maybe Phil can enlighten us on which type of wire is going to be better for this app. John
Voltage rating of a given wire is normally only an insulation difference.
inkpot
SILVER Star
After looking thru 4 other supplier's catalogs, I think the Waytec prices are the best. I'm gunna pull the trigger on 100' of the 6 gauge battery cable. I'll post up when it gets here, probably after the Friday meeting.
inkpot
SILVER Star
The stuff I'm looking at is single wire battery cable. It is flexible, but probably not as limp as welding cable. You can go online to <www.waytekwire.com>and look up the SGT or SGX cable. I think the stuff that is already run thru from the batteries to the buss in the cab is probably battery cable since it feels like it has some body to it. Just thought I would match that. I'm thinking red since that's what I have. John
