new motor break in. advice wanted

[missouriman]

I had mine rebuilt. every thing.. 2300.00 bucks..
I broke it in as they told me.


but I have been doing some reading. sounds like the way to break in a new motor is to rev the heck out of it, power wise... then do compression braking then rev it up again through the gears the compression braking again..

that is give it heck from the get go.

that is get out there some where far enough out that there is not a LEO at every corner. floor it, take it up to 5 or 6 grand in each gear. then down shift, taking it up, again to 5 or 6 grand and slow down.. repeat 10 times.

change oil and motor is broken in.

kinda makes sense, but every thing else written is against this.. I would think that this would set the cam, lifters, rings..

I had a motor that I rebuilt big time. no power, low mileage. I had broken it in with the old rules... had about 2500 on the rebuild.

I was disappointed. I went out and did this. I was shocked at the before and after.

more power, better mileage.
I am thinking that I will do this from the get go on the motor that I am now building.

it will have new bearings, rings, honed out... that is about it.
I think it is the cylinders and rings seated that is the problem.


input welcome.

 

[Jonathan_Ferguson]

My 2L is currently being rebuilt for the second time.
The first time I ran the Engine it could only just make it to 100km/h and any slightest of incline it'd drop to 80km/h - I drove the first 97km pretty much with my foot to the floor, it wouldn't go any faster and even with near to 20,000km it was still damn slow.
With all the trouble of that day, including the spraying of Start Ya Bastard into an Engine with just shy of 400km, and having to leave the Car in Bendigo for a week 'til we could tow it home on a Trailer. - My Engine Builder is going at it for a second time. The other kicker is that there aren't any Diesel Workshops in Melbourne capable of working on a 2L.

 

[PurpleFJ62]

I would drive the piss out of it...You really have to get those rings to seal, otherwise your going to be burning oil forever. The first engine I did back in highschool I let it idle for 20 minutes or so, then changed the oil. On startup I was pulling 10inch HG, then slowly went to about 18inches. I interpited this is the change in the rings sealing ability as the engine broke in. How well was the cylinder sealing, kinda like pulling on a syringe with your finger over the air inlet, similar to an air throttled engine.
That engine happened to be a 4g63 turbo (piece of s***), it burned oil, lots of it. And it smoked blue all the time. Soon after that I drove the piss out of it. It dident help, the rings were as sealed as they were going to get.
I took the piston rings out and discovered a wavey wear pattern on them, large parts of the rings outher circumfrence were not even broken in. Maby 1000 miles wasent long enough....
The bores checked out ok, that was the intresting part...

based on prior experiences I would take it out and drive it hard, not bouncing off the rev limiter, but drive it like you stole it.
good luck

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

I've heard this too... the hone on the cylinders is there to grind the rings so they seat well, but the grinding ability of the cylinder is gone pretty quick... so I guess flogging it from the gate is the way to go...

 

[Scuba951]

See I've heard conflicting stories on this too, But never had any experience with either, So who knows what the deffinitive answer is..But good luck !

 

[RedfishBluegrass]

My 22re was just rebuilt, only kept the block. I was instructed to break in like you would an outboard motor with varying rpms, nice and easy. 300 miles later I feel like there is plenty of power, but the mileage is bad. I may just take it out and drive the piss out of it! If nothing else it will make sure everything else will hold up.

 

[Jukelemon]

I have never heard of a new engine being broken in by driving the piss out of it.

And I dont think, considering an engine rotating at 4k rpm, it would take long for a ring to seat.

There are other variables, many of which have changed due to the internal strength on engine parts, like intial break in and temp curing of internal parts. Years ago, this mattered a whole bunch because tolerancer were actually created during break in i.e. the actual initial wear down of parts.

That is not the case so much now. BUT that still does not mean you should drive the piss out of it right from the get go. Internals still need to seat/mesh/and obtain post initial wear break in tolerances.

Just my opinion of course and the countless number of new cars that NEVER get broken in this way AND still make 150k miles+ stand against the logic ( : But being safe is what I err towards.

My Harley required an initial break in-mainly due to the heat/lack of water cooling characteristics and there are sports cars liek the M3 that absolutely require it in order to create intial tolerances.

Of course, the 22re is a tractor engine for all practical purposes ( :

 

[HemiDave]

Use regular oil during initial fireup and break-in. The cam usually needs to run for 20 minutes at about 2000 rpm to break in. I would then drive it at varying rpms, but not over 4k, for the first 300-500 miles. Then you could change to synthetic oil and drive it normally.

Dave

 

[third coast cruisers]

i recently replaced my engine with a 22re from jasper and the installer and i are great freinds his advice was much the same rev it up and downshift as well set those rings. however his only advice was to make sure i did it at normal operating temp. changed the oil once at 1500mi and now at 4000mi since the install. getting 25+ mpg on highway and 21+ around town. tons of power. very pleased with the break in and the very noticible difference in the new engines performance.

 

[Jonathan_Ferguson]

I fitted an Exhaust Gas Temperature Gauge during the Engine's life on it's first rebuild. What I noticed on a stone cold Engine is that the EGT will be in the 500-600 C range in second gear holding WOT waiting to shift into third. - This doesn't seem like a good idea on a fresh Engine. So next time I plan to use the Hand Throttle set to it's maximum which will be like 1,500 RPM stone cold and then raise to 1,900 RPM as the Engine gains temperature, to get the Water temp to be just showing up on the Gauge cluster before driving. Then I plan to drive and drive and drive to get as many miles on it during it's first heat cycle. - I'm under the impression that the first heat cycle is critical, and this is what gave the first rebuild such poor results, even though it wasn't the Engine Builders fault, just that they chose the wrong mob to rebuild the Injector Pump.

 

[Jukelemon]

i recently replaced my engine with a 22re from jasper and the installer and i are great freinds his advice was much the same rev it up and downshift as well set those rings. however his only advice was to make sure i did it at normal operating temp. changed the oil once at 1500mi and now at 4000mi since the install. getting 25+ mpg on highway and 21+ around town. tons of power. very pleased with the break in and the very noticible difference in the new engines performance.

What you are describing is essentially the same thing as varying speeds (rpm). Downshifting is the same thing as well at operating temp i.e. don't run the piss out of it cold or hot.

25mpg???????????????????? Are you a 4x4?

 

[third coast cruisers]

What you are describing is essentially the same thing as varying speeds (rpm). Downshifting is the same thing as well at operating temp i.e. don't run the piss out of it cold or hot.

25mpg???????????????????? Are you a 4x4?

yup musta got one of them jasper motors not built after 3o'clock break on friday.

mpg surprised the hell out of me and my mechanic friend that did the install.

and yes it is a 4x4.

ain't gonna let thus one go.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

yup musta got one of them jasper motors not built after 3o'clock break on friday.

mpg surprised the hell out of me and my mechanic friend that did the install.

and yes it is a 4x4.

ain't gonna let thus one go.

Glad to hear that your engine is doing so well. I have a hard time believing 25mpg but if you're convinced then that's all that really matters.

I put a new DOA Racing engine in mine 2 years ago. I've never checked the mileage since then but may have to do so just out of curiosity. It doesn't really get driven enough to matter but I'm pretty sure it doesn't get 25 mpg.

 

[third coast cruisers]

Glad to hear that your engine is doing so well. I have a hard time believing 25mpg but if you're convinced then that's all that really matters.

I put a new DOA Racing engine in mine 2 years ago. I've never checked the mileage since then but may have to do so just out of curiosity. It doesn't really get driven enough to matter but I'm pretty sure it doesn't get 25 mpg.

yeah it surprised me and still is.

when i first started the break in it was getting marginal fuel mileage 20ish at best hwy.

after the first oil change at 1500 mi the power and fuel mileage made a noticible increase.

runnin' 17 fj cruisers alloys and 265/75 bridgestone ht's. right now. nwor header hi flow cat and a flowmaster. been on a few trips just highway and louisiana has flatland mostly been clockin the same mileage. when i put on a set of 33 mt's and steel wheels well that taxes the mileage a bit. more like 22.5 hwy.

way better than my fully built '85 fj60 on 35's ever dreamn' t of getting. this '87 runner was purchased just for that gas mileage.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

yeah it surprised me and still is.

when i first started the break in it was getting marginal fuel mileage 20ish at best hwy.

after the first oil change at 1500 mi the power and fuel mileage made a noticible increase.

runnin' 17 fj cruisers alloys and 265/75 bridgestone ht's. right now. nwor header hi flow cat and a flowmaster. been on a few trips just highway and louisiana has flatland mostly been clockin the same mileage. when i put on a set of 33 mt's and steel wheels well that taxes the mileage a bit. more like 22.5 hwy.

way better than my fully built '85 fj60 on 35's ever dreamn' t of getting. this '87 runner was purchased just for that gas mileage.

So how are you checking the actual miles driven? Are you using a GPS or the odometer with some correction for tire size?

I tried to find that tire on the Bridgestone website but couldn't. Are they maybe 265/70-17? If so, that tire is 31.7" diameter. That's still a pretty big tire and I assume larger than the stock tire?

 

[third coast cruisers]

So how are you checking the actual miles driven? Are you using a GPS or the odometer with some correction for tire size?

I tried to find that tire on the Bridgestone website but couldn't. Are they maybe 265/70-17? If so, that tire is 31.7" diameter. That's still a pretty big tire and I assume larger than the stock tire?

link to tire Bridgestone Dueler H/T D684 II

265/70 17" sorry tire size was a little off.

also take in to account when i did calculations on the 33" the tire size is 285/75 16.

fully loaded with trail and camping gear the 16" wheel and tire combo, which are twice as heavy as the 17" wheel and tire combo, the fuel mileage suffers a bit.

still cannot complain.

and yes on the gps.

the reason for the interest in fuel milage has been my mechanic friend is restifying a 1983 toyota trailblazer (predecessor to the 4runner) and is trying to get his mpg's up. he is hit the wall at 23mpg's on the highway.

so my truck was not expected to even get that much after the swap, much to our surprise it set the bar.

 

[Jukelemon]

You must have some magic going on in there. I would have to see it to believe it though ( : You would be the first 22re hitting those figures.

 

[third coast cruisers]

You must have some magic going on in there. I would have to see it to believe it though ( : You would be the first 22re hitting those figures.

no david blaine or copperfield here, just a well built jasper and a great set up and cruise control doesn't hurt either.

putting a set of hankook mt's 285 75 17's this week on the fjcruisers alloys. i am just tired of swapping back and forth. that will settle the mileage out i know i will not see those high figure, but hey i can live with 22 or 21mpg's on the highway.

 

[missouriman]

well,,

seems like it is rod the hell out of it from the get go.

I will try it on this motor that has a rebuilt head, will have it checked to make sure.

re ringing it, new bottom end bearings... no new pistons, I hope.

should only run me around 400.00 so I am going to try it.

I will stomp on it hard and see what happens. I have several spare motors so no big thing if it gives it up!!!.


to bad I will not have be fore and after. this is a motor in my garage with a spun 3rd rod bearing.
junk yard motor in wifes truck.. built motor in my truck. so would depend on which one gives up the ghost first.

but I can relate it to a stock, 22 re that we both started out with.

so what do you think, do the pre oil, the start, the timing and valve lash then take it out for a 6500 rpm spin??

kinda try to keep it above 5 grand for 30 miles.. or do you think more?