New member intro and recommendations needed for UCA vs BMC (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 10, 2023
Threads
3
Messages
7
Location
Broomfield, CO
Hi everyone, I just registered and wanted to introduce myself. My name's Jeff and I have a 2009 GX470. I'm pretty much brand new to the whole 4x4/offroading world, so I'm looking forward to learning a lot here. I'll try to get a picture of my GX posted soon.

I recently pulled the trigger on a Dobinsons 2.5 lift with JBA UCAs. After the install, I was having some rubbing issues on the driver's side frame mount. I took the vehicle to Toy Crawlers here in Broomfield, CO, and had them install new OEM LCAs, SPC cam bolts, and Total Chaos cam tab gussets, plus an alignment. Unfortunately, I'm still getting some rubbing at slow speeds and tight left turns, like in a parking lot, and it seems to be worse when braking or if the vehicle is pointing downhill at all. It's definitely better than it was before I got this work done. Oddly, the passenger side is fine. Forgot to mention, the wheels are FN 17x8.5 with a -6mm offset and 4.5" backspacing. Tires are Falken Wild Peak 285/70R/17.

Toy Crawlers is recommending a BMC, which I'm ok with, but I'm wondering if swapping to SPC UCAs would be the better option here. I don't go hardcore 4wheeling or anything like that, and I will not be upgrading to larger tires in the future. What would you guys recommend? JBA allows you to return their UCAs for any reason within 12 months of purchase, so I'm good there. It would definitely be more expensive to swap to the SPCs and I'd obviously need another alignment. It sounds like they were only able to get about +3.5 degrees of caster with the JBAs, and from what I'm reading, the SPCs will allow for more. Is there a chance that after a BMC, I could still have rubbing issues? Any input is appreciated...sorry for the long first post! Thanks - Jeff
 
I doubt changing UCAs will solve your rubbing problem. Take pictures of the area that rubs for people to see and comment.

I rubbed on the drivers side sway bar and/or frame on full turn only. I was running TC UCAs, New oem LCAs, 17x9 -12 rims, 285/70R17 Nitto ridge grapplers, 2.25” front lift.

Never rubbed the body mount. I’m at 3.7* caster. No BMC for me…just trimmed wheel liner and front bumper a little. That was it.

I ran like this for 5 years or so, then I removed my front sway bar and all rubbing stopped. Again, I was rubbing frame on full turn only and only on driver side.

So, make sure you figure out exactly where you are rubbing so you don’t do unnecessary BMC or UCA
 
Thanks for the reply. I will try to grab some photos tomorrow, but we verified it's definitely rubbing on the driver's side body mount.
 
Aftermarket UCAs provide other benefits like improving handling and restoring the OEM geometry after the lift. However, the -6mm offset wells are not helping - they may look good but will make rubbing worse by pushing the tire more into the body mount and inner fenderwell.

I'm selling a set of new Ironman UCAs on eBay right now relatively inexpensively (would take $500) - see link below. Unlike the SPCs and JBAs the use OE-Toyota style ball joints and bushings. I also don't like the UBJ for the JBA UCAs as they don't have a castle nut/cotter pin between the UBJ and the steering knuckle, so there will always be a risk of the UBJ nut backing off, which would be a major issue. Otherwise, they are nice arms.

I have an older set of the Ironman UCAs on my rig and have a ton of clearance between the tire and body mount, but only have 265/70R17s and have zero-offset wheels. I am planning on putting 285/70R17s on next year and do not plan on doing a BMC.
 
Aftermarket UCAs provide other benefits like improving handling and restoring the OEM geometry after the lift. However, the -6mm offset wells are not helping - they may look good but will make rubbing worse by pushing the tire more into the body mount and inner fenderwell.

I'm selling a set of new Ironman UCAs on eBay right now relatively inexpensively (would take $500) - see link below. Unlike the SPCs and JBAs the use OE-Toyota style ball joints and bushings. I also don't like the UBJ for the JBA UCAs as they don't have a castle nut/cotter pin between the UBJ and the steering knuckle, so there will always be a risk of the UBJ nut backing off, which would be a major issue. Otherwise, they are nice arms.

I have an older set of the Ironman UCAs on my rig and have a ton of clearance between the tire and body mount, but only have 265/70R17s and have zero-offset wheels. I am planning on putting 285/70R17s on next year and do not plan on doing a BMC.
My Total Chaos UCAs also don’t have a cotter pin to hold the ball joint, but they have enough space to add a locking nut which I did.

So, if the UBJ on the JBA has enough room like mine, then a locking nut is a good option as well to double secure it.

And I had 17x9 -12 rims on 285/70s at 3.7* and I never hit the body mount. Go figure!

I did run the frame/sway bar on full turn…so many factors that affect rubbing!

But OP said he rubs body mount, so chopping it is probably his best option
 
Looks like they might on some rigs but they are kind of tight (per photos on their website). They are kind of an odd setup to use the GM truck IFS UBJ, since there is a collar that goes into the steering knuckle to adapt it to the GM UBJ. We put them on my buddy's Tundra and they are nice arms, but using the non-Toyota UBJ does introduce some compilations.
 
Apologies for the delay. Here are a few photos. I'm parked on a very slight decline here.
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Also, I sent an email to JBA and this is what they responded. Thought it might be useful:

Just FYI, set to the same optimized alignment settings the SPC arms will yield exactly the same tire clearance. Also you may want to do a bit of research on the SPC arms, especially stuff from the last two years. Their profit margins for shops are fantastic (they`re cheaply made in China) but their reliability and durability are extremely poor. A lot of our customers are former SPC owners. If you still want to return your JBA arms just as so and we`ll send you an RMA and prepaid return shipping label. We just want you to be aware of the facts before you make a mistake you may regret later.
 
Adjusting for more caster through the UCA effectively moves the tire rearward, making your issue worse. With the SPC, you'd be adjusting for less caster for better clearance. It looks to me like you should start with the BMC and go from there. You can also go with offset bushings in your lower control arms (LCA) to move the LCA/ball joint connection point as far forward as possible (position forward frame side LCA pivot as inward towards the engine as possible and the rear LCA pivot as far outward as possible): SuperPro Front Lower Control Arm .Camber/Caster Offset Bushing & Camber Pin Combo - https://superprousa.com/collections/bushings/products/superpro-front-lower-control-arm-camber-caster-offset-bushing-camber-pin-combo. But, then you'll need the adjustability of the SPC UCAs to be able to dial in the alignment for both caster and camber.

Kai of Tinkerer's Adventure has some great videos on YouTube about Toyota IFS and fitting certain tires if you haven't seen them already:
 
Adjusting for more caster through the UCA effectively moves the tire rearward, making your issue worse. With the SPC, you'd be adjusting for less caster for better clearance. It looks to me like you should start with the BMC and go from there. You can also go with offset bushings in your lower control arms (LCA) to move the LCA/ball joint connection point as far forward as possible (position forward frame side LCA pivot as inward towards the engine as possible and the rear LCA pivot as far outward as possible): SuperPro Front Lower Control Arm .Camber/Caster Offset Bushing & Camber Pin Combo - https://superprousa.com/collections/bushings/products/superpro-front-lower-control-arm-camber-caster-offset-bushing-camber-pin-combo. But, then you'll need the adjustability of the SPC UCAs to be able to dial in the alignment for both caster and camber.

Kai of Tinkerer's Adventure has some great videos on YouTube about Toyota IFS and fitting certain tires if you haven't seen them already:

Right on, that's great info. I appreciate it. I think I'm gonna just do the BMC because it's the most cost effective option at this point.
 

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