New Member Intro and a Few Questions (1 Viewer)

[TechChef]

Hello from the Denver area. I've been reading here for a little while prior to picking up a 1 owner 2005 Land Cruiser with just under 220k on the clock; lots of great info here. I picked this truck up for a few purposes - something that can handle some of the areas I hunt or shoot in, a better vehicle for time spent in the mountains, an option for my wife during winter conditions, and maybe another hobby (or 2 I guess; maintaining the vehicle and hitting some trails, but I need another hobby like a need a hole in my head). Wanted to drop an intro and ask a few questions.

The shocks on this truck need to be replaced; based on what I can tell from service records, they are original, so I plan to replace them with OEM, which seems to be the going consensus in the threads I found and for my use case. One of the front sway bar end links is busted, so I'll be doing that as well, so I have a few questions on this:

1 - Would it be a good idea to just do a full sway bar end link and bushing refresh, front and back (a la the kit from cruiserteq)?
2 - Coil springs are original, so at 20 years old and 220k I'm going to replace those as well - is OEM the way to go here too? This one isn't as obvious to me as the bargain priced OEM shocks, and I don't think there is a real reason for me to add any lift at this point.
3 - Front currently sits 19" hub to fender, I have done a bunch of reading but haven't been able to pin down an exact number for stock ride height here; but it seems like 20" is about right - please correct me if this seems off.

The other thing I want to get addressed right away is the rack and pinion - should I just bite the bullet and have this replaced, or is this somehow salvageable? If I have this replaced, would it be a good idea to go with poly bushings instead of stock rubber? Unfortunately, this is definitely beyond my toolset (and probably skillset) so I will need to have a shop do this:

And here is a picture of the truck, just because:

 

[ScotyDosentKnow]

At 220K miles I have a feeling most all of the bushings could use a refresh so I would do the set over just one. My 05' with 230K is in fantastic shape but bushings are worn.

You will probably get a lot of opinions on the steering rack but here is mine. If its just weeping I would leave it. Mine was slightly weeping at 190K and its still slightly weeping at 230K. Ive seen too many people write that they have replaced the rack with new OEM just to have it weep again a couple years later. There is an additive that people run in the reservoir that is supposed to stop leaking, someone else may chime in about that as I have not tried it yet.

 

[wthomp10]

I've replaced all bushings in my truck except front lower control arms. I'm at 290k and replaced them all within the last 20k miles or so. They definitely needed the replacement.

 

[excessive]

Welcome. coil springs don't usually wear out - so no need to change those.

 

[2001LC]

Welcome!

Adjust Torsion-bars, so front level side to side. Then adjust them evenly to get front end at least 3/4" lower than rear, axle to fender.

Replace the rack & pinion (R&P) with OEM. If leaking at output shafts seals of rack (into boots) and mounting bushings shot. You can live with either for awhile. But watch PS fluid ( AFT) level. Also keep all rubber bushing degreased. Oily bushing fail fast.

When remove & replace (R&R) R&P. I R&R outer tie rod ends (TRE), almost always.

Steering Flush & Cleaning

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...

forum.ih8mud.com

Refreshing all stabilizer bushing, cushion and front links, with OEM parts. Is worthwhile. Use care getting R&R bushing bolts. Brrush out threads and soak w/P oil. Then "Work" them out, easily.

Coolant system is so important, Heater Tees, thermostat, radc cap, Toyota SSL (Pink) 4 gal (drain the block blow out the heater cores and engine):

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

Make sure to check wheel bearings and lower ball joints (LBJ) and UBJ and their boots.
Any 12 to 6 O'clock play, they need servicing:




Spark plugs walk are walking out.

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

forum.ih8mud.com

I flush brake fluid, with Toyota brake fluid only. Make sure bleeders have rubber caps:

Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Mike NXP]

1 - Would it be a good idea to just do a full sway bar end link and bushing refresh, front and back (a la the kit from cruiserteq)?
2 - Coil springs are original, so at 20 years old and 220k I'm going to replace those as well - is OEM the way to go here too? This one isn't as obvious to me as the bargain priced OEM shocks, and I don't think there is a real reason for me to add any lift at this point.
3 - Front currently sits 19" hub to fender, I have done a bunch of reading but haven't been able to pin down an exact number for stock ride height here; but it seems like 20" is about right - please correct me if this seems off.

The other thing I want to get addressed right away is the rack and pinion - should I just bite the bullet and have this replaced, or is this somehow salvageable? If I have this replaced, would it be a good idea to go with poly bushings instead of stock rubber? Unfortunately, this is definitely beyond my toolset (and probably skillset) so I will need to have a shop do this:

1 - Never a bad idea, go OEM whenever possible.
2 - OEM whenever possible. Go to aftermarket if you start to get heavier than stock and need some more spring to support it.
3 - I've seen even less than 19" references as stock on the front end, some say 18.5"
>> I will say the conclusion most have come to is that anything over 21" should require a diff drop to not stress the axles
>> I sit at 20" with a winch and steel bumper. Stock OEM shocks and torsion bars
*** If you are at about 20" in the rear, you don't need new coils unless you have reason to believe they are failing otherwise. I forget the exact number but I think we want about 1" of rake between rear and front so it sounds like you are bang on

Steering rack replacement. If you have the budget, replace it all. If you have the tools and skills, replace just the rubber

 

[Bisho]

AT-205 is the additive you can add to everything but the brake fluid. When I bought my trucks I changed all the fluids, and added AT-205 to everything to refresh the plasticizer in the seals. It does work, and isn't harmful or snake oil. Helped my rack last until the bushings wore out at 280k. It also stopped my T-case output shaft leak.

I think 19.5" hub to fender is the stock height for the front (at least it is on the LX, so I don't know why it would be different on the 100).

 

[TechChef]

1 - Never a bad idea, go OEM whenever possible.
2 - OEM whenever possible. Go to aftermarket if you start to get heavier than stock and need some more spring to support it.
3 - I've seen even less than 19" references as stock on the front end, some say 18.5"
>> I will say the conclusion most have come to is that anything over 21" should require a diff drop to not stress the axles
>> I sit at 20" with a winch and steel bumper. Stock OEM shocks and torsion bars
*** If you are at about 20" in the rear, you don't need new coils unless you have reason to believe they are failing otherwise. I forget the exact number but I think we want about 1" of rake between rear and front so it sounds like you are bang on

Steering rack replacement. If you have the budget, replace it all. If you have the tools and skills, replace just the rubber

So it looks like the rear is sitting 21" on the passenger's side, 20" on the driver's side. OEM coil prices being what they are, is it worth saving a few bucks to go with something like Dobinsons C59-169 or C59-223V? Seems like it would be a very modest lift.

AT-205 is the additive you can add to everything but the brake fluid. When I bought my trucks I changed all the fluids, and added AT-205 to everything to refresh the plasticizer in the seals. It does work, and isn't harmful or snake oil. Helped my rack last until the bushings wore out at 280k. It also stopped my T-case output shaft leak.

I think 19.5" hub to fender is the stock height for the front (at least it is on the LX, so I don't know why it would be different on the 100).

Best to pre-mix and refill, or can the AT-205 just get added?

 

[Bisho]

It can just be added, but I find it’s easier to add it to the gear oil first when doing the diffs and transfer case.

 

[TechChef]

Brief update:

-I have been monitoring the power steering fluid level, and 4 months later, it is still just above minimum mark. I still plan to replace the rack and tie rods, but not overly concerned.

-Ordered front and rear shocks, and full sway bar refresh kit (OEM all around) and was waiting for decent weather. Got in there, and found out the previous owner had replaced the shocks with some garbage no-name! Bummer. Needed to order the washers, but it came in at about $160 for all 16 washers and shipping from Partsouq, ordered Monday, delivered Thursday. I'm sold.

-Front shocks and swaybar refresh are complete. Easy job, just needed a bit of elbow grease on the top nut of the drivers side shock, but I'm used to working on and Audi sedan; this truck is immeasurably more pleasurable to work on. Ride is already better.

-Rear shocks and springs soon. Decided to go with Dobinsons C59-269V for modest lift and significantly cheaper than OEM.

 

[TechChef]

Rear is now complete as well. The ride is noticeably better, and all the stuff that was on there was probably junk brand new; a rubber strap wrench actually crushed one of the shocks while taking it out. The single most time consuming part was getting the top nuts off the rear shocks.

The one thing that is still driving me absolutely nuts is that the passenger side still sits an inch higher than the drivers site, despite everything I have replaced (and the new coils are asymmetrical). If anyone has any words of advice on this, I'm all ears. I know I could just put a spacer in, but...