New LED dome modules

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Thanks George
Put me down for 2 Sir
 
George -

Mark me down for two and I would like to talk to you about an ECU board for the factory auxiliary tank. I picked one up here in Hong Kong and am going to work on installing it when I make it back to the States.

- Mark
 
I need 2 sets. One set for the FJ60 and one set for the FJ62.
 
2 please!
 
George,
I thought one of the reasons for the "star" configuration of the Seoul LEDs was that the metal backing acted as a heat sink and was needed to help dissipate the ~1.5W of power. The Lumiled Rebels don't look to have any heat sink. How can you get away with this?
 
George,
I thought one of the reasons for the "star" configuration of the Seoul LEDs was that the metal backing acted as a heat sink and was needed to help dissipate the ~1.5W of power. The Lumiled Rebels don't look to have any heat sink. How can you get away with this?

The back surface of the driver board is all copper (on the new driver board) and the Rebel is mounted to that. That becomes the heatsink... The Rebel ceramic package has an excellent heat transfer mechanism to the back of the device and that will be soldered to the copper on the driver board.

The Rebel is also designed to handle a higher junction temperature so overall the new dome module design will work very well.

cheers,
george.
 
George, to keep the tech going, why did you change led's? What is the before and after of the switch installed?
 
When are you going to do some map lights? That's was we need the most!
 
The main reason to go to the Rebel was it is a lot smaller and allows me to make a module narrow enough to fit the FJC (poor guys need bright domes nearly as much as us 60/80 folk...). The Rebel also allows me to directly mount it to the PCB so I don't need to thermally epoxy and then strip wires and solder them. The solder process takes care of attaching the Rebel to the PCB and also connecting the power to it all in one shot, so less assembly work for me.

The Rebel maintains a similar light distribution to the Luxeon and Seoul of my previous domes - i.e. wide angle.

I've also ordered higher lumen Rebels versus the Seouls I used before, so these will be somewhat brighter - not like the Seoul's were dim :)

Again, no maplights. They are tooooo much work to make, plus I ran out of the custom aluminium plates I had made and don't want to fork out the $$ to get a whole bunch made that then takes me 2 years to sell off...

cheers,
george.
 
Put me down for two!
 
...
Again, no maplights. They are tooooo much work to make, plus I ran out of the custom aluminum plates I had made...

I think you pointed this out in another thread, George, but if someone really wants a map light for their 80, they can just buy a CC1W driver from you, a couple of Luxeon or Seoul star mounted LEDs from an Internet supplier, bend up their own aluminum plate based on the pictures on your web site (ledinstall), and then assemble everything together. I can understand you not wanting to make up a bunch of these, but an individual with some soldering skills can easily make their own.
 
I think you pointed this out in another thread, George, but if someone really wants a map light for their 80, they can just buy a CC1W driver from you, a couple of Luxeon or Seoul star mounted LEDs from an Internet supplier, bend up their own aluminum plate based on the pictures on your web site (ledinstall), and then assemble everything together. I can understand you not wanting to make up a bunch of these, but an individual with some soldering skills can easily make their own.

Yep, very true. A maplight module is basically 2 x 1W LEDs thermally epoxied (Arctic Alumina 2 part epoxy) to an aluminium plate with a CC1W driver on the back and some wiring.

markholes.jpg


and on the back a CC1W (picture shows an older version of the board - but same functionality).

bulbpwr.jpg


I mount the CC1W by first using 2 part epoxy to make an 'insulated' base on the board. Just put some 2 part epoxy on the back then spread then push down onto a plastic glad bag etc. This allows the epoxy to 'flatten', once set the plastic bag peels off and you have an insulated board. Then some more 2 part epoxy to glue to the board to the aluminium. Solder some wires from the board to the LEDs (LEDs wired in series). Then I take a 12V sacrificial bulb, smash the glass, rip out the guts, solder in 2 wires and then use hot melt to make the bulb a 'bulb' again. The bulb plugs into the maplight fixture in place of the glass bulb - this provides power to the CC1W driver.

theguts.jpg


Lots of steps, which is why I don't want to make any more, but something that can be made by folk that really want LEDs up front.

cheers,
george.
 
Hey george Wondering if you can make me some high speed dome lights like I have in my 1.4millon dollar MRAP. They have dimmers,change color(wht.grn,red) the front one can even be taken out of the vehicle.(built in battery)They are called intelligent design dome lights..made by grotes. I have no clue how to get a set. Can we make 24v work in 12v.... I should send you one....I mean a picture.

If not Im still in for 2 of yours
 
How bright are these compared to your first gen Luxeons? I am looking to "upgrade" the three domes in my 80 and Tundra :)
 
How bright are these compared to your first gen Luxeons? I am looking to "upgrade" the three domes in my 80 and Tundra :)

Brighter by quite a bit. The first dome modules I made used Luxeons rated at 35 Lumen (average of the bin range), the new dome modules will have Rebels with 75 lumen (average of the bin range) output.

cheers,
george.
 

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