New LC Owner, New Member with Suspension Questions (1 Viewer)

[RP3]

Greetings all!
First Land Cruiser, 2001 with 238k miles, bought a few months ago. I've been reading this forum since, and have replaced timing belt, water pump, heater T's, plugs and valve cover gasket, as well as new leather on front seats. I am now on a quest to fix the suspension. I've read many posts about this topic, and can't quite find the answer.
Summary of vehicle and current suspension:
2001 Land Cruiser, 238k miles
Tires: BFG T/A KO2, LT285/75R16 (E load rating); currently running @ 35psi
Hub to Fender, Rear: 23.25”
Hub to Fender, Front: 20.25” (3” rake)

The kind folks at IronMan4x4 were able to track down the order delivered to the previous owner, who installed the lift. The parts from that order:
1) Front shocks, nitro gas, part# 12795GR
2) Rear shocks, nitro gas, part# 12796GR
3) LCA Brackets; part# BRACKET100
4) Rear Coil Springs, 2" lift, Heavay Load (440-880lbs), part# TOY025C
5) Torsion Bars, part# TOY050
6) Front Diff Drop Kit, part# IDD100

Symptoms include a very high and obvious rake, and the truck rides very rough and unstable.

Though the truck has a custom top rack and sliders installed by previous owner, these are not adding much weight to the rear axle, and there are no plans to add storage, tire rack, bumpers, battery, wet bar, etc. that would add weight to rear or front compared to stock. In fact the rear axle may be a bit less with the removal of the jump seats. There are no plans to tow anything really heavy like a ski boat or camper, just an occasional short trip with a utility trailer or some camping/long-term travel, but nothing that would require substantial overland gear, and not enough off-road to justify much of a lift. I have been able to get around to most places near and far, muddy or not with previous stock 4Runners and Tundras.
Observations:
The heavy load rear springs installed are too high and stiff for my situation. IronMan folks say I should replace with “medium” load springs if I want to keep the 2” lift (Part# Toyo13B-100). However, I’m wondering if even these would be too stiff/high for my situation. All I really need is “clearance” for the 33” tires, and some lift for the occasional trip down an Ozark or New Mexico logging road to access a camp site that a Toyo Prius can’t quite muster.

Other options appear to be to reinstall the original springs with spacers; but I hate to reuse the original coils given their age. Maybe I need to diagnose the harsh signals from the front before settling on a solution for the rear.

The front rides way too stiff. I feel every little bump, like when I run over a cigarette butt. Is this because of the thicker, stiffer IRM torsion bars installed without any additional weight in the front, or as noted in some on-line discussions, is this caused by the IRM gas shocks? I really don’t need any more than an inch or inch and a half lift. Right now, I think I’m at about 1 ¾” above stock in the front. I’m OK with this, as the diff drop is already installed. I could go higher if I needed/wanted to. This beast has the IRM T-bars and rear springs to trick out with all of the overland whistles and bells. I not there, at least not yet, so for you guys in this camp, keep an eye on this thread, as you might get a really good deal on a set of springs and maybe T-bars.

As I read this forum, the higher the lift, the more we’re changing other aspects of the geometry that beg for other parts, e.g., a new UCA to get wheel alignment back in sync with OEM, as well as extensions to the sway bar links to get the rear to settle down a bit? I don’t really want to go down that rabbit hole, if I can avoid it, as this truck needs a lot of other stuff to bring it back to its second or third life. (Such includes new bushings on the sway bars/links, and possibly new upper ball joints. So maybe I might as well chase this rabbit.) This is my first trip through suspension augmentations in a very long time, and the only reason I’m here is because I inherited my first LC lift, and it’s like driving a bob-truck on a vehicle I have revered as being the Rolls Royce of SUVs. Also, the suspension shops in my area are not that familiar with Land Cruisers, and I need to be able to direct the work of a third party shop, as I don’t have the space and tools to DIY right now.
… looking for guidance from the collective mind of this global forum. Many thanks in advance.

 

[Fairgame]

Try adjusting torsion bars back to original specs and maybe your shocks are problematic? My 100 is stock and it glides

 

[straycatboat]

What is the original specs.
I have new shocks OEM installed.

 

[4Beast]

440-800# springs are your issue. Your vehicle looks stockish, and those are for vehicles with tons of extra weight. I have the OME equivalent (864s) and it's to prevent sag when loaded, but I have a steel bumper a 100# spare, roof rack, drawers etc. I had mediums before and I had too much squat. The mediums should settle a lot better and still give you appropriate rake.

 

[2000UZJ]

OME 866’s + OEM Torsion bars. I ran this on my old 2000 and it road like a dream. I even had an ARB W/ steel line on the front.

You are way over sprung. I bet it rides like a log wagon

 

[Pucker5]

hd tb’s and those rear springs got you ready for a lot of extra weight front and back. If you’re not going to add any bumpers or anything or stuff in the back pick a stock weight spring and swap them tb’s back to factory. Guys on here who do nothing but replace oem springs and switch their shocks on all fours to the ironman nitrogas generally report decent outcomes.

 

[jLB]

In my experience, some thinner OE torsion bars (2nd choice OME aftermarket torsion bars), and some 1-1.5” “medium” aftermarket rear coils will make a significant improvement.

 

[Bisho]

I agree with what most folks have said. You have a heavy duty setup for a light duty rig. I recommend you offer to trade your Ironman TBs for someone's OEMs (you'd probably net some cash in the deal) and swap out the springs for Old Man Emu 2865s. I actually have a set in the shop I used to run, but I'm having surgery on Wednesday and won't be heading up to AR for a while as a result, or you could have them. The 2865s are relatively soft, but give the slight lift you are looking for. You can buy them new for $220ish.

I think most aftermarket TBs are overkill. I still run the factory bars on a relatively heavy rig and it rides and handles great. I think the best "upgrade" option are the OME, which are just a touch thicker than stock.

 

[RP3]

Thanks much to all who took the time to read my tome, and share your experience.

With my stockish log wagon, and no current plans to carry logs, the consensus is that I am way over sprung in the front, as well as the rear. Recommendations include backing down to a softer “medium” rear spring (e.g., OME 2865), as well as more pliant set of T-bars, i.e., either OEM or OME.

Let’s assume I replace the T-bars with OEM and the rear springs with OME 2865s, which shocks do you guys suggest? My assumption is that the installed nitro gas shocks, much like the springs, are a stiffer design for more weight and rough wheeling.

Also, where would you recommend sourcing the OEM and OME parts?

Thanks again.

 

[Bisho]

Thanks much to all who took the time to read my tome, and share your experience.

With my stockish log wagon, and no current plans to carry logs, the consensus is that I am way over sprung in the front, as well as the rear. Recommendations include backing down to a softer “medium” rear spring (e.g., OME 2865), as well as more pliant set of T-bars, i.e., either OEM or OME.

Let’s assume I replace the T-bars with OEM and the rear springs with OME 2865s, which shocks do you guys suggest? My assumption is that the installed nitro gas shocks, much like the springs, are a stiffer design for more weight and rough wheeling.

Also, where would you recommend sourcing the OEM and OME parts?

Thanks again.

I'd keep the shocks and see how you like them. If its still too rough its hard to beat OEM.

 

[2000UZJ]

Let’s assume I replace the T-bars with OEM and the rear springs with OME 2865s, which shocks do you guys suggest? My assumption is that the installed nitro gas shocks, much like the springs, are a stiffer design for more weight and rough wheeling.

Also, where would you recommend sourcing the OEM and OME parts?

Thanks again.

I'd suggest keeping the shocks as is, until you see how it rides with the new springs/bars. I would suggest PartsSouq for OEM Parts, and CruiserTech or Slee for OME parts.

I wish you the best of luck on your re-springing

 

[RP3]

I'd keep the shocks and see how you like them. If its still too rough its hard to beat OEM.

Thanks. Hope your surgery goes well with quick rebound.

 

[RP3]

I'd suggest keeping the shocks as is, until you see how it rides with the new springs/bars. I would suggest PartsSouq for OEM Parts, and CruiserTech or Slee for OME parts.

I wish you the best of luck on your re-springing

Many thanks. Feel confident now regarding next steps.