New Guy with a used GX460 and build questions. (1 Viewer)

[Spectre1775]

Hello all, I have been lurking for a few weeks and I must say, I appreciate the wealth of knowledge and experience available here. I decided it was time to sign up after recently getting a 2015 GX460 and starting to piece together my DD/family fun truck/Overlander. I plan on building over a couple years starting this week.

I have found a bunch of answers between here, LexusGXOR, and ClubLexus but there are a few I haven't found clear answers on.

I am in the PNW and will be picking up my OME medium suspension kit and sliders from Metal Tech shortly, I am going with 17x8.5" alloy wheels with 0 offset and 4.75" backspacing (my lexus is on aftermarket 22" wheels currently so no option of running OEM without having to buy them.)

My initial questions are: How large a tire can I run without installing new UCA's? How large a tire can I run before needing to re-gear (I would prefer to keep factory gearing if okay to do so)?

I am leaning toward 275/70 r17 or 285/70 r17, possibly 285/75 r17.

My goal is to have a reliable DD that is plenty capable on mild to moderate off road and overland camping/hunting trips without losing all road manners. I dont need a rockcrawler, and not looking for more than the 2-3" lift.

Next on the list is skids (very rocky around here) > roof rack (will need somewhere for spare tire and lightweight gear) > front bumper to keep the mule deer and elk out of my engine) > rear bumper (spare fuel, recovery gear and spare tire relocate to free up roof space.)

Then I will gradually piece together the rest of potential mods (air, 2nd battery, storage, etc.) as I figure out what I need and in what priority.

I have looked through the wheel/tire database numerous times and finish with more questions than when I start. I appreciate all constructive feedback and advice for avoiding pitfalls as a first time 460 owner.

Thanks.

 

[TX GX460]

My initial questions are: How large a tire can I run without installing new UCA's? How large a tire can I run before needing to re-gear (I would prefer to keep factory gearing if okay to do so)?

I am leaning toward 275/70 r17 or 285/70 r17, possibly 285/75 r17.

My goal is to have a reliable DD that is plenty capable on mild to moderate off road and overland camping/hunting trips without losing all road manners. I dont need a rockcrawler, and not looking for more than the 2-3" lift.

Welcome and congratulations! I am going to answer the second question first, because it is a little easier. You can easily run up to a 34" tire without regearing, but it depends on what drive characteristics you want. I run E rated 285/70/17s and can notice that the vehicle is not quite as quick as on stock tires. I may eventually do 4.10s to get back to stock overall ratios, or 4.33s to get a little more aggressive for the torque benefit at the expense of efficiency, but I haven't seen the need to do it yet after three years. But if you go 35s (which would take some serious trim work), most people here would probably recommend you regear. I assume you have read about what trimming and modifications are required at each of the sizes you mention above, but if you haven't checked into that I suggest you research and consider that issue before making a choice on tire size.

The UCA issue is multi-faceted. If you aren't lifting the vehicle and are retaining stock wheels, you should be fine as to UCA clearance and alignment. Most aftermarket UCAs are larger/beefier than stock, so they actually require more clearance than the stock ones do. However, you may need to change UCAs when you lift the truck. When you add a suspension lift, especially of 2" or more, you will want to change your alignment geometry to add in some caster (pushing your wheels forward), which allows for better road handling and control. Aim is usually 4 degrees or more. Stock UCAs usually can't allow for that much forward movement while keeping the camber and toe within acceptable limits. If you don't do this and your suspension is too vertical (too little caster), your steering will feel loose and "darty," such that the vehicle will seem harder to control.

The other issue is wheel choice and offset. If you switch wheels, make sure that the offset is either the same as or less (more negative) than stock. If new wheels have greater offset, it effectively tucks the brakes and suspension components up into the wheel well and brings the wheel and tire closer to the suspension components. This is exacerbated if you change wheel size (such as down from 18" to 17" rims. That is why many people will go with a -10mm or -12mm offset on the GX models, so that UCAs will not interfere with the rim or tire. This actually increases interference with the fender wells and body mounts at full lock by moving the wheels and tires outward, so be aware that you are going to be more likely to have to trim after making this change.

I hope this helps - feel free to follow up with any additional questions!

 

[r2m]

I agree with TX GX460 posted. I personally run BFG M/T K02 285/75/17. It equates to a 33.8" diameter tire. I have the Icon 3" suspension with UCA's. If you go to my build you can see how it looks as an overlander: Builds - R2M 2013 GX 460 Expo
I did re-gear but with 4.56 gears when I added my front and rear ARB lockers.

 

[Gazziza]

Welcome and congratulations! I am going to answer the second question first, because it is a little easier. You can easily run up to a 34" tire without regearing, but it depends on what drive characteristics you want. I run E rated 285/70/17s and can notice that the vehicle is not quite as quick as on stock tires. I may eventually do 4.10s to get back to stock overall ratios, or 4.33s to get a little more aggressive for the torque benefit at the expense of efficiency, but I haven't seen the need to do it yet after three years. But if you go 35s (which would take some serious trim work), most people here would probably recommend you regear. I assume you have read about what trimming and modifications are required at each of the sizes you mention above, but if you haven't checked into that I suggest you research and consider that issue before making a choice on tire size.

Do they have 4.10 or 4.30 gears for the Toyota 8.2"? From what I understand the only options available are 3.73 (stock), 3.91, 4.56 and 4.88.

 

[TX GX460]

Do they have 4.10 or 4.30 gears for the Toyota 8.2"? From what I understand the only options available are 3.73 (stock), 3.91, 4.56 and 4.88.

You're right. Thanks for clarifying. It's been a few years since I looked and I thought Nitro carried them but after checking again I guess not. That's probably one reason I didn't pull the trigger back then - 4.56 is a bit aggressive for my setup.

 

[Spectre1775]

Thank you all for replying, I am on my way to pick up the suspension, wheels, and sliders. Interestingly, the BR wheels on my 460 are 275/45 R22 9.5" wide, +25 offset with 5.8" backspacing with stock suspension and UCA's, no rubbing on liner or arms. I think the 275/70 R17, 0 offset, 4.75 backspace on the 17x8.5" wheels will clear everything without issue. The main concern would be after I install the lift making sure they can still be properly aligned as @TX GX460 pointed out.

It sounds like I would be better off in the long run just getting UCA's now.

Does anybody have a good idea if I can run the 275/70 r17 with the 2.5" lift without requiring a BMC? I don't have the tools to do it myself and would rather use the money elsewhere. Of it will be required than I may as well go with the 285/70 tire if I am making room for them. Likely going with falken wildpeaks or the les schwab branded open range.

 

[Spectre1775]

I agree with TX GX460 posted. I personally run BFG M/T K02 285/75/17. It equates to a 33.8" diameter tire. I have the Icon 3" suspension with UCA's. If you go to my build you can see how it looks as an overlander: Builds - R2M 2013 GX 460 Expo
I did re-gear but with 4.56 gears when I added my front and rear ARB lockers.

I have actually looked at your build several times in recent weeks, Yota Masters did some excellent work on your truck! I may end up going with a trailer instead of cabinets etc in the back as I will have to keep seating for all my progeny.

 

[marcosarg]

I agree with TX GX460 posted. I personally run BFG M/T K02 285/75/17. It equates to a 33.8" diameter tire. I have the Icon 3" suspension with UCA's. If you go to my build you can see how it looks as an overlander: Builds - R2M 2013 GX 460 Expo
I did re-gear but with 4.56 gears when I added my front and rear ARB locker

 

[marcosarg]

I agree with TX GX460 posted. I personally run BFG M/T K02 285/75/17. It equates to a 33.8" diameter tire. I have the Icon 3" suspension with UCA's. If you go to my build you can see how it looks as an overlander: Builds - R2M 2013 GX 460 Expo
I did re-gear but with 4.56 gears when I added my front and rear ARB lockers.

If you don't mind answering, how muc did that set up cost you? with all the lockers?

 

[GX95030]

Thank you all for replying, I am on my way to pick up the suspension, wheels, and sliders. Interestingly, the BR wheels on my 460 are 275/45 R22 9.5" wide, +25 offset with 5.8" backspacing with stock suspension and UCA's, no rubbing on liner or arms. I think the 275/70 R17, 0 offset, 4.75 backspace on the 17x8.5" wheels will clear everything without issue. The main concern would be after I install the lift making sure they can still be properly aligned as @TX GX460 pointed out.

It sounds like I would be better off in the long run just getting UCA's now.

Does anybody have a good idea if I can run the 275/70 r17 with the 2.5" lift without requiring a BMC? I don't have the tools to do it myself and would rather use the money elsewhere. Of it will be required than I may as well go with the 285/70 tire if I am making room for them. Likely going with falken wildpeaks or the les schwab branded open range.

I am running 285/70/R17s KO2s on my GX with a 2.5 Icon Lift and did not need a BMC. Some definite trimming on fender liners but got away without a BMC. I still have factory UCA's and it's probably my only regret of my suspension purchase not getting the ICON UCA's. The car aligned great and drives fantastic, just wish I got the UCA's. Here is how it sits.

 

[jiggletits]

Front/rear e lockers, gears, rebuild kits and labor was close to $6500 on my Tundra. ARB would be even more money and complication.

 

[VirginiaCruiser]

$8500 for Eatons and 4.88 on my 80, installed

Its expensive but super worth it when your ready

 

[jiggletits]

I would argue the rear is worth it, but the front is not. Gears and big tires are also NOT worth it unless you spend 90% of your time crawling over rocks. Plus, front locker on an IFS is just begging for disaster.

I'm only doing rear locker and not changing the gears on the GX. Not trying to run big dumb tires. It will end up being about $2000. Shop will rebuild, I'll pull/replace 3rd member myself.

 

[r2m]

If you don't mind answering, how muc did that set up cost you? with all the lockers?

I have not idea what labor cost's are these days because of the extreme inflation, but here are the gears and lockers:

JustDifferentials.com: the leading distributor in ring and pinion, limited slip, traction devices and axle parts from Nitro Gear & Axle, Nitro Gears are available for all types of vehicles.

Just Differentials, JT Parts, JT's Parts & Accessories is the leading distributor in ring and pinion, limited slip, traction devices and axle parts from Nitro Gear & Axle, Nitro Gears are available for all types of vehicles.

www.justdifferentials.com

 

[URJ150L]

$5800 for nitro 4.88 gears with arb front and rear lockers installed… keep in mind that the front diff gears require the arb carrier so going all in is your option.

Don’t sweat the ifs stuff… been rollin front locked for several years over axle banging sh!t on two different vehicles with no issues.

 

[TonyH]

Hello all, I have been lurking for a few weeks and I must say, I appreciate the wealth of knowledge and experience available here. I decided it was time to sign up after recently getting a 2015 GX460 and starting to piece together my DD/family fun truck/Overlander. I plan on building over a couple years starting this week.

I have found a bunch of answers between here, LexusGXOR, and ClubLexus but there are a few I haven't found clear answers on.

I am in the PNW and will be picking up my OME medium suspension kit and sliders from Metal Tech shortly, I am going with 17x8.5" alloy wheels with 0 offset and 4.75" backspacing (my lexus is on aftermarket 22" wheels currently so no option of running OEM without having to buy them.)

My initial questions are: How large a tire can I run without installing new UCA's? How large a tire can I run before needing to re-gear (I would prefer to keep factory gearing if okay to do so)?

I am leaning toward 275/70 r17 or 285/70 r17, possibly 285/75 r17.

My goal is to have a reliable DD that is plenty capable on mild to moderate off road and overland camping/hunting trips without losing all road manners. I dont need a rockcrawler, and not looking for more than the 2-3" lift.

Next on the list is skids (very rocky around here) > roof rack (will need somewhere for spare tire and lightweight gear) > front bumper to keep the mule deer and elk out of my engine) > rear bumper (spare fuel, recovery gear and spare tire relocate to free up roof space.)

Then I will gradually piece together the rest of potential mods (air, 2nd battery, storage, etc.) as I figure out what I need and in what priority.

I have looked through the wheel/tire database numerous times and finish with more questions than when I start. I appreciate all constructive feedback and advice for avoiding pitfalls as a first time 460 owner.

Thanks.

I went with 4.88’s at the recommendation of my local shop. I have huge regrets now…and might even pay to have it regeared back to stock.

4.56’s would probably also be too low…but 4.88’s are obnoxious. 75mph on the Highway with my 4.88’s is about 2,600rpm now. Used to be 1800-1900. Gas mileage on Highway dropped from 18-21mpg to 14-15mpg. Absolutely not worth it.

I haven’t had a chance to try the new gears off-road or towing yet, but I doubt the gains are worth the pains. Wish I’d read a post from my future self a few months ago. :-/

 

[JDUB fab]

Love seeing real world numbers for mods, appreciate all who posted that. Sobering statistics. I’m definitly needing gears and lockers. Although with the pedal commander I havnt noticed a super drop in power with the 35” tires. I’ve been wanting to switch it off and see how the rig drives, for anecdotal evidence. While I’m not ready to pull the trigger yet, I’m the “while your in there” type when it comes to car stuff, so I doubt I would do lockers without re gearing at the same time. Most likely will pull the diffs myself and ship them out, easier and cheaper than driving a day to a decent shop who does this work.
I’ve been on the air locker train for a while but recently have been considering e-lockers more and more. I live in the north east and with moisture and salt and all that s***, I’m concerned the reliability of an ARB would not be good. For those with electric lockers how has your experience been? I’ve had stock e-lockers before but never aftermarket.

 

[r2m]

I went with 4.88’s at the recommendation of my local shop. I have huge regrets now…and might even pay to have it regeared back to stock.

4.56’s would probably also be too low…but 4.88’s are obnoxious. 75mph on the Highway with my 4.88’s is about 2,600rpm now. Used to be 1800-1900. Gas mileage on Highway dropped from 18-21mpg to 14-15mpg. Absolutely not worth it.

I haven’t had a chance to try the new gears off-road or towing yet, but I doubt the gains are worth the pains. Wish I’d read a post from my future self a few months ago. :-/

What size tires are you running? I'm running 35's with 4:56 with lockers front and rear and it works fine. Yes my MPG sucks, but I have a very heavy rig that pushes a lot of air down the road with my RTT on top.

 

[r2m]

Love seeing real world numbers for mods, appreciate all who posted that. Sobering statistics. I’m definitly needing gears and lockers. Although with the pedal commander I havnt noticed a super drop in power with the 35” tires. I’ve been wanting to switch it off and see how the rig drives, for anecdotal evidence. While I’m not ready to pull the trigger yet, I’m the “while your in there” type when it comes to car stuff, so I doubt I would do lockers without re gearing at the same time. Most likely will pull the diffs myself and ship them out, easier and cheaper than driving a day to a decent shop who does this work.
I’ve been on the air locker train for a while but recently have been considering e-lockers more and more. I live in the north east and with moisture and salt and all that s***, I’m concerned the reliability of an ARB would not be good. For those with electric lockers how has your experience been? I’ve had stock e-lockers before but never aftermarket.

I used Nitro with ARB front and rear: Search Nitro Gear & Axle - https://nitro-gear.com/search-pl?fitment=2013%7CLexus%7CGX%20460&orientation=vertical&limit=50

 

[Hiluxforever]

For reference, I have stock gears on 33x10.5s on a mostly stock rig and get 14-17. If I drove it like I was driving Miss Daisy, I could probably get 18. Boring is not best.