New fuse block

[jessnbrianfj40]

I've been searching for hours trying to find out if someone has taken out the stock fuse block (1980 fj40) and replaced it with something else. Found many writeups about auxillary blocks and aftermarket harnesses, but no stock replacements. I bought this one from blue-sea systems
ST Blade Fuse Block With Cover - 12 Circuit without Negative Bus - PN 5029 - Blue Sea Systems. I've installed it, but can get my truck to turn off after I turn it on. I still have a stock harness. Has anybody done this that could give me a shot or description of how they wired it in?

Thanks in advance

 

[65swb45]

Sorry I cannot help with your direct question on the parts you purchased. But I did see this SAME PROBLEM back in March at a CVC event.

Replacement fuse block, truck wouldn't shut off once started.

Fuse block has TWO sections. One is constant hot, one is keyed hot. Rig in question had accidentally wired the coil circuit to constant hot side of the fuse block, so it was actually one ALL THE TIME!

If you disconnect your battery [to kill the motor] and reconnect it, you will probably see that you have voltage at the coil without the key on.

Switch wires and all should be well.

Best

Mark A.

 

[Volcano cruiser]

Sorry I cannot help with your direct question on the parts you purchased. But I did see this SAME PROBLEM back in March at a CVC event.

Replacement fuse block, truck wouldn't shut off once started.

Fuse block has TWO sections. One is constant hot, one is keyed hot. Rig in question had accidentally wired the coil circuit to constant hot side of the fuse block, so it was actually one ALL THE TIME!

If you disconnect your battery [to kill the motor] and reconnect it, you will probably see that you have voltage at the coil without the key on.

Switch wires and all should be well.

Best

Mark A.

Hmm, thanks for the info...I have two of the Blue Sea blocks, with the negative bus, waiting for me when I get back home. I am using one to replace the partially melted OEM block (PO wiring magic at it's best) and one as an aux block for future expansion. If I'm not mistaken, the top 4 circuits on the 40 series block are constant hot and the bottom 4 are switched hot. My current thinking was to replicate that setup in the main block.

 

[hudyhue]

hey thanks mark.... got it figured out.

 

[jessnbrianfj40]

Mark,

Thanks for the help! I did have voltage to the coil with the key off. Helped straighten out a few another electrical oddities I was having as well. My cruiser was able to move on its own for the first time today in over a year since I started putting it back together! Again, thanks I really appreciate it.

 

[QtrWavDave]

Replacement fuse panel

I have one of the same fuse panels as you. I just took it apart and sawed the main bus in 2/3 and added a relay for ignition control.

 

[Volcano cruiser]

I have one of the same fuse panels as you. I just took it apart and sawed the main bus in 2/3 and added a relay for ignition control.

Interesting...got pics?

 

[mophisto]

I like that one of the fuse options is "Fish Finder" - I dont know about you guys, but I hope my 40 will never need such a fuse

 

[Pin_Head]

You don't need a buss bar for the negative connections in a cruiser because:
1) There aren't many negative wires to connect to it.
2) The sheet metal and frame is the negative buss.