New front Locking diff fitted

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Sep 17, 2004
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Location
Gloucestershire, UK
Well finally got the replacement diff fitted in my front axle yesterday - got fed up with the noise in the end. A whole catalogue of woes was found while it was out but luckily the new diff is good and the noise has gone.

Diagnosis of the noise, Pinion was worn as was the crown wheel, was only running on the edge of the crownwheel and that was worn really rough. Lot of play in the pinion bearing.

Also both front drive plates are badly worn, changed one Birfield, got to do the other one and change both drive plates relatively quickly.

Wheel bearings were loose (hadn't checked them since last August - naughty), splines were shot on the old Birfield that was replaced as well as the Birf itself being knackered.

However one good thing, both swivels are good and the seals weren't leaking so the oil under the front of the car is all from my leaking power steering pump - next thing to change.

The Cruiser runs a lot quieter now, still got a slight hum but I think this is the wheel bearings which I will be changing, think them being too loose has probably not done them any favours although they didn't look bad. Hum now happens on acceleration as well as deceleration which was not the case from the front diff noise which only happened on acceleration.
 
Denis.

Sorry already gone, It wasn't worth keeping, there was so much damage it wasn't rebuildable, be cheaper to buy a new one off ebay, they come up occasionally for about 800 euros.

Mine would have needed new Crownwheel, pinion, bearings, elcoker actuator (it didn't have one, robbed it off mine). Also the carrier was slightly damaged inside where things had been slopping around which would have meant welding and finishing so that the bearings didn't move around.

I was going to keep it myself and rebuild it and replace my second hand one at some point in the future however the replacement one is fine and doesn't need any rebuild so it will be staying where it is.

Still got a spare rear 3rd that I am going to rebuild to replace that one in time, although I hear that the rear 3rds never break anyway.
 
Yeah it was a wonder it hadn't come apart before now. Just goes to show that actually they are pretty strong and forgivving diffs - mind you the guy who changed it (I didn't do it myself as my drive slopes too much to be safe on axle stands) said that he does quite a few of them, and actually the rears never break just the fronts and it is always the same, Crownwheel gets chewed up by the pinion when that goes because the bearings wear. Diff is generally FUBAR and no use for anything except a door stop. Never ends up rebuilding them just replacing them. I think I got a good deal on the replacement Diff as the engine had blown on the vehicle so the guy had scrapped it, only had 92000 miles on the clock when it was broken up. Got both front and rear diffs for £400 plus a few other trim bits. Had to drive nearly 200 miles to pick the stuff up - best days driving I done in a long time.
 
yep, this is what i found as well, the front diffs wear a lot faster than the full size rears and since it is full time doen't help.
i am wondering if a person could install a full time case behind the auto and locking hubs. yes i know about the center diff lock switch and free wheeling hubs are a cheap swap. my concern is even with the free hubs and the center diff lock switch engaged the front is still turning just not under load...so in the end there is still wear happening to the front end...
anyone tried changing out the viscus couple t/case with a part ime gear to gear?
 
I was looking to do this on mine, however could never find out which locking hubs would fit the front axle on a Full time 80. Would still like to do it though. Don't have a problem with running with the center diff lock engaged.

I would think that the wear would be a lot less because the front diff is not under load, even if it is still turning.
 
One of the aftermarket manfacturers(Mark's4wd?) sells a part time kit. It comes with free wheeling hubs and some gears to replace the centre diff. A mate has done this conversion on his 80 and swears by it. I personally don't like it, if I wanted a part time 4wd I would have bought a Nissan. The constant 4wd was one of the main selling points when I bought my 80. Base model 80s in OZ come with part time but even so the couple of times I've driven mine with the front tailshaft out(for repairs) I have found the handling/traction/dynamics of the 80 to be drastically reduced. Corners that could be safely negotiated when constant were taken sideways in 2wd at lower speeds.
IMHO the money spent on doing the conversion(with dubious results) could be better spent maintaining the original setup.
 
Mickldo said:
IMHO the money spent on doing the conversion(with dubious results) could be better spent maintaining the original setup.

It's kind of like the manual glow / super glow arguments on the 3B/2Hs. Personally, I prefer a working superglow system to the manual but i know lots of people who love their manual setup.

Getting back on topic, a link to the part time conversion kit would be cool. I think if I had a choice between buying a part time and full time 80 I'd choose part time. Having said that, I agree converting one over would probably not be worth the time and money (unless one has a lot of both!) :)
 
Nothing special with full time 80 series .. not for me. I love my part time ( in fact I found one part time coz I search it ) are faster than full time version ..

IMOP
 
We have four turbo diesel 80s in our club, one of them has the part time conversion. He swears by it but on numerous trips with the club the other two full timers and I have fun leaving him for dead on fast gravel roads. All four 80s run a similar state of tune with similar lifts and other mods. The owner of the part timer knows how to drive and can usually keep up for a while but he is sideways around every corner and the rest of us are keeping it nice and straight. Mind you all the Nissans have dropped off the back miles back.

IMHO the 80 series is a balanced neutral handling car that can hold its own in a variety of situations. By going to part time 4wd the dynamics of the car are destroyed.

Some people are scared of the constant 4wd system after being brought up with part time all their lives but Range Rover has been using constant 4wd since the early 70s and nobody wants to convert them.
 
Personally I would like if it is possible to do the combined route i.e.

Manual Locking front hubs

1. Unlock them and lock the centre diff - gives you part time 4wd
2. Lock them and unlock the centre diff - full time 4wd

Don't see what would be wrong with this one, could run 2wd on the road and full time any other time.
 
Mickldo said:
He swears by it but on numerous trips with the club the other two full timers and I have fun leaving him for dead on fast gravel roads.

I'm sure that the performance on gravel roads are by far much better with a full time rig .. no clues.

I need to ask, why the part time owner didn't go on those situations on 4H with teh front hubs engaged . ?

In a on road situation the part time 80 series I thought go much faster in aceleration statement . ?
 

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