New front drive shaft (1 Viewer)

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yes this is the front driveshaft

i'll make a trip to princess auto for that magnetic base angle finder.

as far as caster angle goes, I really didn't change anything, this may sound stupied but I just lined up the pins on the new leaves and got an alignment and that was it.

so please explain...
 
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where did you buy the OME kit from? is it an actual OME or is it a Dakar from Dan at 4wheel?
if so then it is just a 2 1/2" lift and won't cause you the problems that you are describing...
the growl can be also gears that are worn, you mentioned you have 3/4" turn which could easily be this...
 
yes it is from Dan but he told me it was a 3 inch lift, defintaly rasied it up alot,

I was thinking worn gears too, but it does it with or without the front hubs locked, and it seems to be coming from the transfercase rather then the axle.

There are so many possiblities it is making my head spin.
as of right now it is drivable I just want it perfect, as i'm sure I will be going on some snowmobile trips so I just want the piece of mind of it being right.
 
afaik, Dan only sells the Dakar 2 1/2" lift...
unless the growl is BAD then just drive the truck, when it gets worse then worry about it.
buddy, there are too many guys that are worry warts, let it go and just enjoy your baby...
that is my opinion
cheers
 
I definitaly am a worry wart, my problem is the amount I have in this truck it seems silly to let something go to the point it causes the transfercase to prematurly fail, then again 300,000kms some of these things will probably need attention soon anyways

correct?

thanks for your advice
Eric
 
yep, at 300,000 if you let it a cruiser will nickel and dime you to death...
it isn't my stress, my money or my truck so you have to do what is right for you...
cheers bud
 
Is there any ring and pinion or transmission shops near by you could bring it to? To check out the driveline. Sometimes it takes a fresh perspective.

I find a decent stereo gets rid of the annoying little noises.
 
I find a decent stereo gets rid of the annoying little noises.

LOL!! ain't that the truth... or loosing your hearing works too...
 
my stereo is as good as it can be with a 10 amp converter, it gets pretty loud, enough to drowned out the diesel!!!
 
front driveshaft vibration

yes it is from Dan but he told me it was a 3 inch lift, defintaly rasied it up alot,

I was thinking worn gears too, but it does it with or without the front hubs locked, and it seems to be coming from the transfercase rather then the axle.

There are so many possiblities it is making my head spin.
as of right now it is drivable I just want it perfect, as i'm sure I will be going on some snowmobile trips so I just want the piece of mind of it being right.

Eric

If you have done a 3" lift then you will not be rid of the vibration untill you either shim the front spring perches to bring your castor angle back to stock which will in tern bring both front Ujoint angles back to same degree OR put a Double Cardan Joint on the t/case end of your driveshaft(take to a d.shaft shop)
This will work if the axle end joint is straight (not running at any angle) and the tcase end with d.cardan joint running the angle.

If you continue to run 4hi at hwy speeds you will take the bearing out of the front t/case output sooner than later.

Steve M
 
Steve,
i will debate this issue with you..
if the kit uses stock length shackels then the caster has not been changed. the axles has been moved directly 2 1/2" straight away from the body. if longer shackels are used then the caster is changed since the longer shackels twist the axle housing.
problems with caster angles show themselves by "crowning" (wanting to ride the high point of the road, most notable when traveling where the big rigs have pushed grooves into the pavment) death wobble can be accentuated with longer shackels resulting in poor caster angle.
poor caster does not cause vibration.
cheers
 
The gowling seems to be alot more noticable when slowing down of cousre this could be because the motor noise is not over the growling.



Eric

I know youve been under there a million times but are the oil levels in the gearbox and t/case ok.
Iwas wondering if the seal between them has gone and the t/case oil has gone up hill to the g/box.

If the t/case hasnt had a kit put through then maybe you should look in that direction.
My 73 needed one at 280000klm
 
Steve,
i will debate this issue with you..
if the kit uses stock length shackels then the caster has not been changed. the axles has been moved directly 2 1/2" straight away from the body. if longer shackels are used then the caster is changed since the longer shackels twist the axle housing.
problems with caster angles show themselves by "crowning" (wanting to ride the high point of the road, most notable when traveling where the big rigs have pushed grooves into the pavment) death wobble can be accentuated with longer shackels resulting in poor caster angle.
poor caster does not cause vibration.
cheers

Wayne
You are correct in that poor caster does not cause the vibration........it it the effect it has on the ujoint angle as the housing is rotated.
I have seen the issue on 4 different 70's all with stock length OME shackles and OME springs. The flats on the springs are designed to rotate the housing for a slightly better pinion angle.

To address the problem of d. shsft vibration both ujoints must rotate in exactly the same degree angle to be vibration free. Sometimes you get lucky if it is close.
I have not yet seen a 3" Cruiser lift that allows the ujoint angle s to be equal at both ends after the lift.

Am I fussy in this area.......yes, I don't like vibrations .......I will concur that at low speed it is not an issue but at 100kph you will eventually pay.

IIRC a OME setup causes pretty much a 0deg at the diff and about 23deg at the tcase with a d.cardan. The 70 runs more of an angle at front tcase output than other series in my exp.

OME states in thier literature that no d.shaft mods are necessary, but I beg to differ.

Steve
 
i have done many, many lifts with no vibration occuring but i have seen a couple that were a PITA.
i am curious why you feel the 70s are a steeper angle...

300,000 km can have issues that we can not "see" with out actually looking at the rig...

cheers
 
In the limited number of 42's , 60 3B's I have been under, I have noticed that the tran/tcase is lower at the rear.

I have lifted 42's and 60's with out any front d.shaft issues(S.U).

If you lift a 70 by the frame and let suspension have full droop ALL of the ones I have wrenched on will slightly bind at the t/case ujoint.

Steve
 
OOPs

. Should say lower driveline at rear on 70 , IMHO

Steve
 
Eric

Had a similar problem with my 70 with very similar symptoms. Cure for me was new u-joints. But, I did notice that the slip joint seemed to have a little wiggle in it. How does your d-shaft feel right in the middle? Maybe the splines in the slip joint aren’t engaging enough? Just throwing idea’s out there.

HTH
-Noah
 
the splines and U joints are perfect, it is a shaft from G&S very nice and new... The wobble was fixed, but now I have a growl that happens more often then not when I slow down. It is very acceptable to speeds up to 75 80 kmph, I don't think going much faster then that in 4hi is a great idea anyway...

I dunno guys, I wish I was near cow town so Wayne could give it a once over :(

cheers
Eric
 

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