at least try and see if loading the rear with those plates eliminates the vibration. then you'll know if you're on the right track. i'd spend that $320 on other needs. did you take out the 3rd row seats, spare tire and stock tow hitch? if so, consider putting them back - that's probably another 200lbs you could be using.
New FJ80 Owner
- Thread starter jstouder
- Start date
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Congrats on the purchase and initial phase of mods!
2x on trying to load the rear with cement, plates, or parts that you potentially removed from the 80.
No sense in purchasing as 2nd set of springs, only to need the first set once you pull the trigger on the rear bumper.
Cheers,
Paul
2x on trying to load the rear with cement, plates, or parts that you potentially removed from the 80.
No sense in purchasing as 2nd set of springs, only to need the first set once you pull the trigger on the rear bumper.
Cheers,
Paul
Congrats. Don't bother upholstering. Check a junkyard or CL. I was able to find a full set of seats from a part out rig at a junkyard on CL for $400. In good condition.
- Thread starter
- #44
Ran with about 300lb's in the back for over a week. Decided to hold off on the rear bumper and replaced the 863's with 860's. So happy I did it. Riding great now, still making some unwanted metal on metal noise. Going to replace the sway bar bushings and go from there. Holding off on the seats for now as well. Dropped too much money doing this too fast in my opinion. Slowing down, more methodical from here on out.
It's not easy when it's your daily driver! I'll post rig updates to this thread going forward. Next up is a rear-hatch dual LED setup so I can see when camping. Thanks mudders!
It's not easy when it's your daily driver! I'll post rig updates to this thread going forward. Next up is a rear-hatch dual LED setup so I can see when camping. Thanks mudders!
It looks great ! FWIW you can do full replacement Procar seats for under 700..... a huge upgrade in support....they have both Pleather and suede options.
- Thread starter
- #46
Now I have a suspension problem. When I turn tight and get her off-center the front and rear passenger suspension makes a loud pop and thud. It seems to pop out of place and then back into place once the vehicle re-centers. This was not an issue when I purchased the truck at 185,000 miles and bone stock. I've added OME 2.5" heavy suspension in the front (winch and short bus bumper) and OME 2.5" medium in the rear (no additions to the rear).
After some searching I've decided to start with the sway bars, top nut on the shocks, and possibly the ball joints. I'm not really sure how to best troubleshoot however since it only happens when the vehicle is in motion.
What's the best way to go about pinpointing this issue? Thank you.
After some searching I've decided to start with the sway bars, top nut on the shocks, and possibly the ball joints. I'm not really sure how to best troubleshoot however since it only happens when the vehicle is in motion.
What's the best way to go about pinpointing this issue? Thank you.
Did you also installed the sway bar relocation extension? (Slee offers them for both front & rear)
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/suspension_pieces_spacers.htm
Anything you can do to get the entire suspension system back to OEM geometry (panhards, brackets....) is, IMO, money well spent-particularly if it's your DD.
Cheers
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/suspension_pieces_spacers.htm
Anything you can do to get the entire suspension system back to OEM geometry (panhards, brackets....) is, IMO, money well spent-particularly if it's your DD.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #48
I have not installed the sway bar relocation extension. I didn't think those were necessary if you were installing the 2.5" lift?
We spent a couple more hours this weekend troubleshooting and still don't have a definitive answer. The shocks are installed correctly and are not shifting at the mount points. The ball joints look solid as does the bushings for the sway bar.
I'm hesitant to start buying more hardware until we know exactly what is going on.
It's understandable your reluctance to spend money if you're unsure. I know it sucks to put unexpected/unplanned money on this, but the suspension is an intricate system. Consequently by lifting the suspension the OEM geometry is being altered, therefore, the entire dynamic system is off specs, harder to drive and potentially unsafe. The truck still be driven for sure...but you don't know what you're missing....
FWIW, I run 50 mm OME lift suspension HD set, with the caster correction indeed, Slee's extension brackets for the swing bars . I've also replaced both swing OEM bars for Whiteline's (32mm if I recall) as the OEM bars with all the added weight (full ARB at front and Kaymar with tire carrier at the rear), allows excessive body roll. I've also installed Slee's adjustable Panhard bar to relocate the rear diff (6mm to be precise).
With everything back to OEM specs, neutral reactions and with limited-yet predictable body roll- this truck, while ain't sports car, is a real joy to drive
Hope this helps
Cheers
FWIW, I run 50 mm OME lift suspension HD set, with the caster correction indeed, Slee's extension brackets for the swing bars . I've also replaced both swing OEM bars for Whiteline's (32mm if I recall) as the OEM bars with all the added weight (full ARB at front and Kaymar with tire carrier at the rear), allows excessive body roll. I've also installed Slee's adjustable Panhard bar to relocate the rear diff (6mm to be precise).
With everything back to OEM specs, neutral reactions and with limited-yet predictable body roll- this truck, while ain't sports car, is a real joy to drive
Hope this helps
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #50
Ok guys... Finally some actionable feedback. With the help of some buddies I inspected the lift kit install. All is well there, no slippage or faulty shocks. The banging or random chunk! sound has to be coming from one of the following:
Hub
ABS
U-Joint (driveshaft)
This got me thinking... I had the U-Joint replaced right before the lift kit. I'm not sure it was installed properly, but it didn't make any noises until the lift kit was installed.
I'm thinking of going with the Double Cardan driveshaft and then balancing the entire drivetrain. What type of Double Cardan would you recommend and why?
Hub
ABS
U-Joint (driveshaft)
This got me thinking... I had the U-Joint replaced right before the lift kit. I'm not sure it was installed properly, but it didn't make any noises until the lift kit was installed.
I'm thinking of going with the Double Cardan driveshaft and then balancing the entire drivetrain. What type of Double Cardan would you recommend and why?
Is this "clunk" you refer to happening when you are flexing the suspension up or down? it very well could the the radius arm bushings. The ones on my 96 are shot. The one under the drivers feet clunks if I go over RR tracks or get a good bounce out of the truck. When I placed a jack under it, I placed it under the radius arm and I watched that bushing "collapse" and allow the arm to move way out of position.
As far as the "rubbing" noise you are getting, is it coming from the RF wheel area? it COULD be the brass bushing inside the spindle being dry (or not lubed enough) when your guy rebuilt the front axle. Just a thought. If it is happening during deceleration, or turning, that could easily be that.
As far as the "rubbing" noise you are getting, is it coming from the RF wheel area? it COULD be the brass bushing inside the spindle being dry (or not lubed enough) when your guy rebuilt the front axle. Just a thought. If it is happening during deceleration, or turning, that could easily be that.
After looking at the pics again, it doesn't look like your guy went that deep. Since he was that deep, he should have pulled the spindle, repacked the birfs, and put on new seals, not just the wheel bearings. Then he could have done the trunnion bearings as well. I'm in the process of all this on mine right now. Hopefully to be done by Saturday night. (All new seals, gaskets, axles (RCV from Slee), rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines)
Good Luck! Nice clean Cruiser!
Good Luck! Nice clean Cruiser!
- Thread starter
- #53
How would you suggest fixing a torn wiring harness boot? This particular area of the harness I believe is the air intake sensor, but it's got a gnarly gash through it exposing the wires. I've tried electrical tape but it doesn't hold up.
NIce rig,,, excellent find. As these rigs are aging , it is harder to find them in good condition. You did we'll. Welcome to the addiction,,,lol. Slee is awesome,,,,Christo is the man, along with many other folks on here. Have you had your windshield replaced yet,,, if not ,type in windshield replacement in the search engine, grab a coffee, and read up. The windshield is not your average install, nothing overly complicated, but all procedures in the factory service manual , must be followed to the last word. If not the windshield will rattle and squeal, and leak..... Good luck, and have fun with your Cruiser......
CRUISER CARTEL 
Probably paid too much, got me a 95 with factory lockers for 3K less miles too, only 178K. Mine leaks oil and had to replace the windshield and tires. Needs the same interior work also.
- Thread starter
- #56
I'm tracking the suspension issue in a separate thread and have made some progress with the feedback from the forum. Thank you!
With regards to the build, and preparing for Colorado this summer, she's back in the shop. I'm surgically targeting the fuel system based on these symptoms:
- Only check engine light appearance was "26" or rich fuel
- Running with Techron produced black smoke from the exhaust, including some nasty tar like expulsions
- Occasional rough idle/loss of acceleration
Installing a new fuel sock, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and EGR valve. The injectors should be back now from WitchHunter. Two of the six injector locks were broken, so we are replacing all six and new wiring from the distributor (which was recently replaced). While he's in there I'm replacing as many heater hoses as possible.
Some of this might be overkill (fuel pump) but at 190,000 and while she's opened up... Why not?
I'll update the thread once I've had a chance to drive her around a bit.
With regards to the build, and preparing for Colorado this summer, she's back in the shop. I'm surgically targeting the fuel system based on these symptoms:
- Only check engine light appearance was "26" or rich fuel
- Running with Techron produced black smoke from the exhaust, including some nasty tar like expulsions
- Occasional rough idle/loss of acceleration
Installing a new fuel sock, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and EGR valve. The injectors should be back now from WitchHunter. Two of the six injector locks were broken, so we are replacing all six and new wiring from the distributor (which was recently replaced). While he's in there I'm replacing as many heater hoses as possible.
Some of this might be overkill (fuel pump) but at 190,000 and while she's opened up... Why not?
I'll update the thread once I've had a chance to drive her around a bit.
- Thread starter
- #57
Service completed and I'm very happy with the results. The EGR port was probably the idling and rich fuel culprit. WitchHunter only resulted in a 2% overall gain based on testing. Haven't had a change to test the MPG but will report back soon.
If anyone lives in/around KC and wants an incredible old-school Toyota mechanic PM me. This dude is awesome.
Service/parts details:
REMOVED ALL INJECTORS TO SEND TO WITCHHUNTER INJECTOR SERVICE
CLEAN EGR PORTS FROM THROTTLE BODY AND INTAKE PLENUM
REPLACED:
FUEL AND COOLANT HOSES ON INTAKE MANIFOLD
BROKEN INJECTOR HARNESS CONNECTORS
EGR VALVE
FUEL FILTER
SPARK PLUGS
FUEL PUMP DUE TO AGE/MILES
INTANK FUEL FILTER
THROTTLE BODY AND INTAKE PLENUM GASKETS
POWER STEERING HIGH PRESSURE HOSE
PARTS:
SPARK PLUGS NGK 6
FUEL PUMP OE TOYOTA 1
44411-60430 POWER STEERING HIGH PRESSURE HOSE
90980-11153 HOUSING CONNECTOR INJECTOR 6
96135-513300 CLIP , HOSE 4
16264-66021 HOSE, WATER BY-PASS 1
16261-66040 HOSE,WATER BY PASS 1
87245-60490 HOSE WATER 1
22271-66010 THROTTLE BODY GASKET 1
17171-66010 INTAKE PLENUM GASKET 1
17179-66010 INTAKE PLENUM 1
If anyone lives in/around KC and wants an incredible old-school Toyota mechanic PM me. This dude is awesome.
Service/parts details:
REMOVED ALL INJECTORS TO SEND TO WITCHHUNTER INJECTOR SERVICE
CLEAN EGR PORTS FROM THROTTLE BODY AND INTAKE PLENUM
REPLACED:
FUEL AND COOLANT HOSES ON INTAKE MANIFOLD
BROKEN INJECTOR HARNESS CONNECTORS
EGR VALVE
FUEL FILTER
SPARK PLUGS
FUEL PUMP DUE TO AGE/MILES
INTANK FUEL FILTER
THROTTLE BODY AND INTAKE PLENUM GASKETS
POWER STEERING HIGH PRESSURE HOSE
PARTS:
SPARK PLUGS NGK 6
FUEL PUMP OE TOYOTA 1
44411-60430 POWER STEERING HIGH PRESSURE HOSE
90980-11153 HOUSING CONNECTOR INJECTOR 6
96135-513300 CLIP , HOSE 4
16264-66021 HOSE, WATER BY-PASS 1
16261-66040 HOSE,WATER BY PASS 1
87245-60490 HOSE WATER 1
22271-66010 THROTTLE BODY GASKET 1
17171-66010 INTAKE PLENUM GASKET 1
17179-66010 INTAKE PLENUM 1
- Thread starter
- #58
Noticed a coolant smell after getting back from work... Looks like the radiator is next up on the replacement list.
The coolant is spraying out from the passenger side and top of the radiator, from the vertical seam. Coolant spray makes it over to the air canister and drips down. I've replaced nearly every heater hose as I've worked through the engine so that leaves me with:
A new radiator, thermostat, thermostat gasket, fan clutch and heater control valve. All OEM and going in this weekend.
I've done the oil pump seal and screws, harmonic balancer, belts, and front main seal. I've also replaced the PS pump and low/high hoses.
Anything else while I'm in there?
The coolant is spraying out from the passenger side and top of the radiator, from the vertical seam. Coolant spray makes it over to the air canister and drips down. I've replaced nearly every heater hose as I've worked through the engine so that leaves me with:
A new radiator, thermostat, thermostat gasket, fan clutch and heater control valve. All OEM and going in this weekend.
I've done the oil pump seal and screws, harmonic balancer, belts, and front main seal. I've also replaced the PS pump and low/high hoses.
Anything else while I'm in there?
- Thread starter
- #59
The following happened, for the second time in two months, in a nearly identical fashion. CEL on, really rough idle, stuttering during acceleration, CEL off after ~10min.
Today was rainy in Kansas City, similar to the last time this happened. After reading the forum (similar thread) I believe it is the wiring harness near the EGR. It was wrapped at some point but is dirty and lightly moist to the touch (pics attached).
What should I do next? Replace it and wrap it up good? I've heard of the EGR Delete but I'm not sure that it applies to this situation.
Today was rainy in Kansas City, similar to the last time this happened. After reading the forum (similar thread) I believe it is the wiring harness near the EGR. It was wrapped at some point but is dirty and lightly moist to the touch (pics attached).
What should I do next? Replace it and wrap it up good? I've heard of the EGR Delete but I'm not sure that it applies to this situation.
CEL Code 26 is Air/Fuel mixture Running Rich.
This may or may not be wiring behind the EGR. This could be your O2 sensors. They are known that they don't like getting wet. Maybe it's time to remove them, clean, seal, coat in dielectric grease and reassemble.
I think you are still on your stock cats, so I would clean the O2 sensors and see what that does first. Easier and less expensive to try first.
This may or may not be wiring behind the EGR. This could be your O2 sensors. They are known that they don't like getting wet. Maybe it's time to remove them, clean, seal, coat in dielectric grease and reassemble.
I think you are still on your stock cats, so I would clean the O2 sensors and see what that does first. Easier and less expensive to try first.
