I had this condition with a dirty fuel sock
New FJ80 Owner
- Thread starter jstouder
- Start date
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I had this condition with a dirty fuel sock
- Thread starter
- #82
Thanks Nors. I replaced the following back in January:
- EGR Valve
- In-tank fuel sock
- Fuel Filter
- Fuel Pump
- Fuel Pressure Regulator
- Gas Tank Cap
- Oil Filler Cap
I'm fairly certain it's not a fuel supply issue.
At this point I'm really hesitating. How many times do I have to be burned on "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." It really isn't broke, but it's just a little off. For 192,000 I think I should be able to handle it... BUT I CANT!!!
Been enjoying your thread!
I think I've given you the cruiser wave as we passed each other on 103rd (me heading west and you heading east?). Mine's a little more "trail decorated" and denty than yours.
Check out Tornado Alley Cruisers in the clubhouse section if you haven't already.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/ks-mo-tornado-alley-cruisers.53/
And if you want to get that thing dirty, come play with us at Southern Missouri Off Road Ranch September 10th through 12th!!!
Looking forward to meeting you!
Mike
I think I've given you the cruiser wave as we passed each other on 103rd (me heading west and you heading east?). Mine's a little more "trail decorated" and denty than yours.
Check out Tornado Alley Cruisers in the clubhouse section if you haven't already.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/ks-mo-tornado-alley-cruisers.53/
And if you want to get that thing dirty, come play with us at Southern Missouri Off Road Ranch September 10th through 12th!!!
Looking forward to meeting you!
Mike
Those look very well made.
- Thread starter
- #85
They really are. I just put 2,000 miles on them and couldn't be happier.
- Thread starter
- #86
Mike - Thanks! Great to meet you! I do remember waving to you and thinking, I wonder who that guy is? I've been checking out TAC more than I probably should today...
Great club, one I would like to join and get more involved in.I'm looking into the SMORR it looks and sounds awesome. We just got back from 9 days in the Rockies so I'm at a good point with regards to confidence with the rig. If I was more confident in my remaining time off from work this year I would be all in...
Mike - Thanks! Great to meet you! I do remember waving to you and thinking, I wonder who that guy is? I've been checking out TAC more than I probably should today...
I'm looking into the SMORR it looks and sounds awesome. We just got back from 9 days in the Rockies so I'm at a good point with regards to confidence with the rig. If I was more confident in my remaining time off from work this year I would be all in...
Very cool!!
Yeah, SMORR is about my favorite park so far. Such a wide variety of terrain and tons of trails. And we are doing day passes this year, so even just come up Friday night maybe and wheel with us on Saturday.
No worries on the vacation time, as we'll also head to Tuttle Creek later in the fall (Manhattan, KS) and another member has setup a wheeling for veterans trip at another park somewhere in MO for later in September I believe.
Looking forward to meeting you in person!
- Thread starter
- #88
Hey guys, need some advice here. CEL 71 popped up today. I've replaced the EGR valve, but I imagine the EGR Temperature Sensor is entirely different. I'm wondering if it's ok to continue driving the truck until I'm able to replace the sensor. Outside of the CEL, nothing else is awry.
Thanks for any opinions and
Thanks for any opinions and
Hey guys, need some advice here. CEL 71 popped up today. I've replaced the EGR valve, but I imagine the EGR Temperature Sensor is entirely different. I'm wondering if it's ok to continue driving the truck until I'm able to replace the sensor. Outside of the CEL, nothing else is awry.
Thanks for any opinions and
Read this thread. It tells about the options. Basically, it boils down to worse gas mileage at speed.
EGR delete cause lean condition?
Hi, new to this and about to replace my dash pad. I see you have experience there. Do you really have to take the whole dash apart first? I guess you start at the bottom and work my way up…. Just basic tools and a few hours work?
Thank you.
Thank you.
- Thread starter
- #92
To do it correctly, you need to take the dash apart, yes. Basic tools, small hands and a lot of patience!
The dashboard itself is a piece of hard plastic that screws into the firewall. The dashpad is held to the dashboard primarily through 8-10 thin pieces of bendable metal. You slide the dashpad into place on the dashboard and then carefully bend each piece of metal to hold it in place.
I started on the left and worked my way to the right. I took the steering wheel and glove compartment out as well. A headlamp would be a great choice as well.
- Thread starter
- #93
Thanks to @BILT4ME and this post I was able to resolve my CEL 71. Replaced the VSV and modulator, both of which were faulty. The VSV bladder was torn in two and full of carbon. Reset the EFI fuse and after nearly 2,000 miles (to/from CO), no more CEL 71.
In addition, she's idling even better then before. Now if I could figure out that 1qt of oil every 3,000 miles...
In addition, she's idling even better then before. Now if I could figure out that 1qt of oil every 3,000 miles...
- Thread starter
- #94
Need advice from the forum with regards to replacing the Head Gasket as PM:
- 197,000 miles, no HG job that I am aware of
- Bubbler test comes back clean after 15min
- Blackstone shows medium levels of coolant in oil (not high, not trace either)
- White smoke on startup then it goes away
- No oil leaks
- 1qt of 5w30 burned per 3,000 miles
Should I or should I not replace the HG?
- 197,000 miles, no HG job that I am aware of
- Bubbler test comes back clean after 15min
- Blackstone shows medium levels of coolant in oil (not high, not trace either)
- White smoke on startup then it goes away
- No oil leaks
- 1qt of 5w30 burned per 3,000 miles
Should I or should I not replace the HG?
I will tell you that 1 quart per 3000 miles is very good for an 80. There's a thread in the 80's tech section where people give their oil consumption and yours is way inside the median. My head gasket was done about 37,000 miles ago (around 237,000 currently), and I put a quart in about every 1000 miles at least.
These things are like SR-71's...leaky, fluid consuming beasts that perform like crazy!
These things are like SR-71's...leaky, fluid consuming beasts that perform like crazy!
- Thread starter
- #96
Thank you, that is very helpful. I'm coming to grips with the fact that it's actually well within spec for a block with 200k miles on it. Interesting that your HG job didn't stop the oil loss. Is your oil loss via leak or is it burning up?
My dream is to send her to SoCal and have TLC4X4 drop an LS6 in. Let me find that discretionary $40,000... Has to be in the sofa somewhere...
A small amount of leak at the rear main (but not enough to leave drops), otherwise burning up. I fixed the leaks from the oil pump cover and such. My PO did the HG (actually his father in law did it), so no idea if he ran through the valves and really did a complete job or not. But she runs really good, so no complaints so far.
I finally got a chance to get on and review and reply to your post.
I'll start with mine: My PO had the HG done at 145K and fortunately had the head rebuilt at the same time. I now have 232K on it and I don't lose any oil between oil changes at 7500 miles. I am VERY fortunate for this part of my truck, considering all the other stuff I had to do.
The cost of replacing the head gasket and having the head rebuilt will be in the $4K range, to do it correctly. The head need to be crack checked, have the seats ground, valves ground, new valve guides (if needed), new valve seals and have all the springs checked for travel and correct seat pressure. Of course, this should also include checking the head for warp, and if it is warped, having it planed and having the block checked for true and decked if necessary.
I am one that really goes for good maintenance on all my vehicles so I stay in front of problems. My first reaction is to say that no, I wouldn;t do it as PM. However, as I sit here typing, I know I'm lying to myself, because if I have a Blackstone analysis that is telling me I have coolant in my oil and I'm losing oil at a quart per 3000 miles, that thee engine is not as reliable as I would like it to be. I personally have had what appeared to be head gaskets go on 2 different engines in my lifetime and each time when they went, it was catastrophic. One was actually a cracked head, and one was an incorrect machine job on the heads of a fresh V8. Since a head gasket is just a matter of time before it goes completely, I will not sleep well or drive it confidently as a daily driver or take it on that trip I want to go on until it's been done. However, when I do it, I will usually go the extra mile because I feel it is only a bit further to do the job "right" while I have that part to do. Basically, I would end up completely rebuilding the engine. That's what would give me the confidence in it. Rebuilding the entire LC engine will be closer to $8K if I was to guess. Reading on this forum, it may be north of that even unless you do a fair amount of work on your own.
Another possibility would be to dedicate myself to the gathering of parts to do a swap while the truck is still alive and amass all those things that I would need BEFORE it goes. I would probably even rebuild the engine I am planning on swapping in, just so I wouldn't have to do it again later. Unfortunately, I am a chronic complicator that way........
My PO had my HG done by Olathe Toyota as near as I can tell. I'm not sure who decided it no longer needed the idler pulley for the belt or the adjuster bracket for the alternator or the spark plug wire covers on the top of the head, and to install the air tube from the filter to the throttle body backwards.
Yank the engine and transmission (they say it's easier that way), and take it to an engine rebuilder that KNOWS Toyota Land Cruisers and have it rebuilt top to bottom.
Of course, the LS1 would make the truck a much more comfortable truck on the highway and would most likely improve gas mileage and HP, since I know you are not a rock crawler. Of course, you can always go LS6 or LS7 to get the massive torque and HP, but your gas mileage will suffer and you'll have to install heavier springs in the front but it sure would be tire-smoking fun!
The LS1 would be a good fit for a DD but can you justify the change? How much does a quart of oil cost per oil change? Not financially feasible, but then owning a 20 year old truck isn't all that feasible either........
- Thread starter
- #99
My goodness thank you... Lots of things to ponder. My shop is not willing to do the work. They are slammed and don't have the time for something this major. I'm reaching out to a couple folks in town, but if anyone knows where I could take her in and around Kansas City I would be grateful.
- Thread starter
- #100
Build Update:
1) Deleted failing catalytic converters
2) Sanded, primed, painted, coated stock rims.
3) BFG KO 285's to Falken Wildpeak 315's
Very pleased with the direction the truck is going.
1) Deleted failing catalytic converters
2) Sanded, primed, painted, coated stock rims.
3) BFG KO 285's to Falken Wildpeak 315's
Very pleased with the direction the truck is going.
