New FJ80 Owner

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We have a guy here in KC who works on LC's from his house. He is incredibly knowledgeable and willing to impart that knowledge on newbies like me. I went to see him last night and stepped through the vehicle with him. As I learn I will definitely do more and more of this on my own. The interior and body work will entirely be mine, but I'm an expert on computers and software, not engines and drivetrains. In due time...

His investigation uncovered the following:
- Valve cover gasket is leaking. With a mirror you could see the oil underneath the top of the engine.
- Replace spark plugs while we have the top off.
- Repack front bearings, seal with synthetic.
- Front brake pads while the tires are off.
- U-Joint is loose and rusty, replacing it.

I've got some interior pieces on the way (dash, console, combo switch) and some new gaskets/seals for the flares. Looking forward to the progress that will take place over the next month.
 
Found a nice hornets nest under the steering column. Nothing I cannot handle, but thought you all would get a kick out of this wiring job.
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Victory is mine! Broken and archaic security system has been removed!
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This was a nasty install. All wrapped up underneath the steering column and in the side panel. I'm glad to have it out.
 
Need some help from the forum. In removing the security system, I have a remaining red light in the dash next to the locker dial. It has a + and - wire and I'd like to connect that in to a constant power source to give the illusion of a security system.

Of the myriad of wires underneath the dash, which two would you recommend connecting in to? Please give a description of the wire and location if possible. Thank you.
 
Interior upgrades nearly complete. Replaced the dash pad, combo switch, radio, center console, steering column cover and removed a nasty old alarm system.

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Need some help from the forum. In removing the security system, I have a remaining red light in the dash next to the locker dial. It has a + and - wire and I'd like to connect that in to a constant power source to give the illusion of a security system.

Of the myriad of wires underneath the dash, which two would you recommend connecting in to? Please give a description of the wire and location if possible. Thank you.

:eek:

Sound like a good place to leave you stranded. I wouldn't do that.
 
I'm in the market for a lift kit. As a reminder, I don't have the tools or gear to do the lift myself. The local outfitter wants $1,900 for the OME 3" heavy duty lift. I can find the kit online for $1,100.

What gives? The outfitter is a friend who is supposedly dealing directly with ARB and operating under a 20% margin.
 
I'm in the market for a lift kit. As a reminder, I don't have the tools or gear to do the lift myself. The local outfitter wants $1,900 for the OME 3" heavy duty lift. I can find the kit online for $1,100.

What gives? The outfitter is a friend who is supposedly dealing directly with ARB and operating under a 20% margin.

Putting a lift on the truck is not that difficult. I did it in my garage with 2 floor jacks and 4 jack stands in about 3 hours. If I had a helper it would have been much faster. You'll need basic tools and you can get a tutorial on the Slee website. As far as price, I got my 2.5" TJM lift with shocks and caster bushings from Toytec for under $850. They are great and ship fast. Good luck!
 
I'll say it again, I have no tools or time to do serious drivetrain upgrades or repairs. I realize that doesn't sit well with some of you.

Update. Right now the 80 is at a local mechanics house getting worked over, front to back. Synthetics in the axles and diffs, new top valve gasket and plugs, replace the rear U joint, etc. Slee shipped my bumper and led and metal tech has my order for the lift kit.

Unfortunately I'm not able to find the sliders I want. I have little kids who already struggle getting in the truck.

Any recommendations for sliders that have protruding steps? This will be a mountain pass truck more than anything so I just need basic protection while enabling my daughter access to the vehicle.
 
Dropped the 80 off this past Sunday. Via this forum, found a local who has been a Toyota tech for 35 years. Axles, diffs, top valve gasket and spark plugs, U-joint, new battery, etc. While she's getting work done I've been researching and lining up the outfitting.

Purchased the following for installation:
- Slee Short Bus front bumper
- RIGID 14" LED
- OME 2.5" Heavy Suspension Kit
- Cruisin Offroad Sliders (no kickout)

She goes in the first of the month and I cannot wait!

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Rig has been outfitted and I couldn't be happier. 3" Heavy OME lift. Slee Shortbus bumper. Custom 14" Rigid LED. 9500lb Warn with synthetic rope. Cruisin Offroad sliders.

No more oil leaks. Just need to fix the power steering and she's golden.
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That looks awesome. I just picked up my first 80 and am doing a lot of maintenance right now in preparation for being a daily driver. Wish I could do it all at once like you did, but it'll likely be a slower build.

Well done.
 
Question for the forum. I'm randomly getting what I perceive to be a drivetrain rub on the front passenger side of the vehicle. It only happens when decelerating at highway speeds or turning left. I'm assuming it has something to do with the drivetrain but wanted to see if you all have any thoughts.

Recently installed the 3" OME Heavy lift in the front and rear. In addition, put a Slee front bumper and winch on, but added no weight to the rear. My goal is to add a rear bumper at some point, thus the heavy springs/shocks.

Is this due to the imbalance between front/rear? Otherwise the ride has been fantastic, much smoother than the twenty year old springs and shocks.
 
Question for the forum. I'm randomly getting what I perceive to be a drivetrain rub on the front passenger side of the vehicle. It only happens when decelerating at highway speeds or turning left. I'm assuming it has something to do with the drivetrain but wanted to see if you all have any thoughts.

Could "drivetrain rub" be vibration? I'm not sure about the turning left situation, but the vibration during "coast" or deceleration at highways speeds sounds like a front driveshaft vibration. I had the same thing and checked u-joints, etc., and ended up installing a double cardan driveshaft to fix the problem.
 
Could "drivetrain rub" be vibration? I'm not sure about the turning left situation, but the vibration during "coast" or deceleration at highways speeds sounds like a front driveshaft vibration. I had the same thing and checked u-joints, etc., and ended up installing a double cardan driveshaft to fix the problem.

It absolutely could be. I'm doing some research but feel like I have two options at this point. Spacers in the front or add the rear bumper as planned to even things out. I went with Heavy springs all around because the rear bumper was part of the plan. Then things got expensive... I kept the heavy lift but subtracted the rear bumper. From the lift FAQ on this site:

"It should be noted that if the Heavy Load suspension is used in an application where there are no additional weight on the truck, it could lead to a harsh ride as well as vibrations and handling anomalies."

My kit is as follows:

2 x OME 850 Front Coil Springs
2 x OME 863 Rear Coil Springs
2 x N73 Nitrocharger Shocks
2 x N74E Nitrocharger Shocks
1 x SD24 Steering Damper
1 x CA77B Caster Kit

I'm thinking an email to Jason at Cruisin Offroad is in order. The rear bumper should help even out the ride and self-correct the vibration.
 
After further research I believe I know what to do. Drop the OME863's and put in OME860's in the unloaded rear end. This would even out the ride and put the drivetrain/castor in proper form (w/ OME850's and a bumper/winch in the front end).

Would love some confirmation from those with more experience than me (basically all of you).
 
how about load the rear with a couple bags of cement until you get that rear bumper?
 
how about load the rear with a couple bags of cement until you get that rear bumper?

That's definitely an option. I've got some 45lb plates I could use until that time. That being said, my budget is shot and I still need to replace the front seat vinyl... I can get two 2860's for $320 shipped to the house.

I might just add the plates and see how she handles.
 

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