- Thread starter
- #61
BILT4ME - I believe you are correct... Further digging found this gem of a post. EXACTLY the same symptoms.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/o2-sensors-do-they-need-to-be-replaced.802781/
New FJ80 Owner
- Thread starter jstouder
- Start date
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BILT4ME - I believe you are correct... Further digging found this gem of a post. EXACTLY the same symptoms.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/o2-sensors-do-they-need-to-be-replaced.802781/
Did you catch the little snippet in there that they MAY be covered under a RECALL by Toyota? Worth having it checked!
- Thread starter
- #63
Further investigation shows the O2 sensors were hacked up at some point. Replacement underway.
- Thread starter
- #64
Replaced both O2 sensors. Previous sensors were caked and wiring harnesses had been hacked, spliced, and poorly repaired. New connections are sealed with heat shrink butt connectors, then heat shrinked, then taped, then covered in wiring shroud and zip tied into place.
Shouldn't be a problem again anytime soon. Thanks BILT4ME!!!
Shouldn't be a problem again anytime soon. Thanks BILT4ME!!!
- Thread starter
- #65
Question on MAF harness. The rubber boot is ripped where the harness connects to the MAF (The Y boot). How would you go about securing the harness? Heat shrink and electrical tape don't really adhere well to a larger Y rubber boot.
- Thread starter
- #66
Just replaced my VAF (some like to call it a MAF) on my '94 FZJ80. It's now idling very rough and has trouble accelerating when I'm barely giving it any gas. It's fine once I really accelerate, it just stutters hard with slight acceleration.
I've searched the repair manual and this site, but need some help. I know you can adjust the VAF with the screw (see picture) but I'm not sure what it actually does. I'm about to go mess with it but would love some advice prior to. My previous VAF had the screw all the way down.
I've searched the repair manual and this site, but need some help. I know you can adjust the VAF with the screw (see picture) but I'm not sure what it actually does. I'm about to go mess with it but would love some advice prior to. My previous VAF had the screw all the way down.
- Thread starter
- #67
Build update. I got a VAF/MAF from a junk yard and all is well now. I had a seating debacle with Corbeau where the front seat brackets were completely off. Had to ship them back and it scared me away from a seat replacement.
I ordered front seat covers from Precision Fit and will take before/after pictures for the forum. Seems like a great way to save $800.
http://www.precisionfit.com/
I ordered front seat covers from Precision Fit and will take before/after pictures for the forum. Seems like a great way to save $800.
http://www.precisionfit.com/
- Thread starter
- #68
PrecisionFit covers arrived last night. I had time to test fit them and I'm incredibly impressed. I'll snug them up this weekend and post full fit pictures. Throughout the entire process I have been very happy with PrecisionFit. You pick 4-5 swatches to match, they send them to your house, match the color, make the order, and they are custom cut and stitched. Took a month for them to arrive for $370.
Pictures of my seats before attached.
Pictures of my seats before attached.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_2229-jpg.923024/
What is this missing black plastic piece called? My bounces around like crazy and makes a helluva racket on bumps.
What is this missing black plastic piece called? My bounces around like crazy and makes a helluva racket on bumps.
Last edited:
My free advice to free advice givers: Don't ever tell anyone they overpaid for a vehicle they already bought. It's a little...mean. If he bought it and he's happy with it, great.
And congrats on the rig. I love the color! Great truck, with lockers can't go wrong. No rust is a Big Deal. Good work.
And congrats on the rig. I love the color! Great truck, with lockers can't go wrong. No rust is a Big Deal. Good work.
- Thread starter
- #71
And after. I couldn't be happier with the fit and color match. They seat and back also have a thin layer of padding that helps with comfort. They took a while to put on as they are very tight. I'm really excited about it.
Are those COVERS or REPLACEMENT leather? Did you install them yourself?
- Thread starter
- #73
They are covers and I installed them myself. They are awesome! I think if more people on this forum were aware they would get them. Pick some swatches and they will send them out. Leather, Pleather, Neoprene, Sheapskin, etc.
www.precisionfit.com
They take 3-4 weeks because they make them to order. I couldn't be happier. The bottoms have a velcro strap from side to side and buckles from front to back. Super firm!
I had to unbolt the passenger seat to get the velcro past the automatic seat mechanism. Otherwise it was no big deal.
www.precisionfit.com
They take 3-4 weeks because they make them to order. I couldn't be happier. The bottoms have a velcro strap from side to side and buckles from front to back. Super firm!
I had to unbolt the passenger seat to get the velcro past the automatic seat mechanism. Otherwise it was no big deal.
- Thread starter
- #74
Just got back from an awesome trip to Colorado. I couldn't be more pleased with how the FZJ80 handled the passes and trails we took it down. I have two things to resolve (and/or live with) and could use the wise sage advice of the forum.
1 - Minor stutter during acceleration. This just started happening after the 700 mile drive to CO. This doesn't happen during hard acceleration or at in-town speeds. It's so minor I first thought it was inconsistencies in the asphalt roads of CO. Then I was able to safely and faithfully reproduce it. At 60mph + if I barely engage the gas pedal to hold a speed acceleration will stutter. It's very minor but enough to make me wonder what is wrong, and attempt to resolve it. I replaced the MAF a few months ago and have done significant work to the throttle body with the exception of the TPS. I'm thinking its the TPS or the MAF.
2 - Oil loss. I'm 4,000 miles into my oil change and having to add a quart of oil. Shortly after the 700 mile drive to CO I had to add another quart. I'm not leaking considerably (maybe 1 drop of oil a month via rear main seepage) to the ground. I'm not burning in an externally discernible manner (exhaust is clean). My thought is I'm burning internally and at a high enough temp that it's not too problematic. Should I be running SeaFoam just to be sure?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
1 - Minor stutter during acceleration. This just started happening after the 700 mile drive to CO. This doesn't happen during hard acceleration or at in-town speeds. It's so minor I first thought it was inconsistencies in the asphalt roads of CO. Then I was able to safely and faithfully reproduce it. At 60mph + if I barely engage the gas pedal to hold a speed acceleration will stutter. It's very minor but enough to make me wonder what is wrong, and attempt to resolve it. I replaced the MAF a few months ago and have done significant work to the throttle body with the exception of the TPS. I'm thinking its the TPS or the MAF.
2 - Oil loss. I'm 4,000 miles into my oil change and having to add a quart of oil. Shortly after the 700 mile drive to CO I had to add another quart. I'm not leaking considerably (maybe 1 drop of oil a month via rear main seepage) to the ground. I'm not burning in an externally discernible manner (exhaust is clean). My thought is I'm burning internally and at a high enough temp that it's not too problematic. Should I be running SeaFoam just to be sure?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Oil consumption, doesn't sound too bad.....
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-consumption.423209/
Hey @jstouder Glad to hear you had a good trip! Hopefully post some pics of the fun!
OK: Standard list of questions:
Oil Consumption:
1) When (if ever) was your head gasket done (not a head gasket problem, just looking for a point of reference on valve seals)
2) What oil are you running? (Brand and weight)
Don't run Seafoam. There are a number of opinions here for and against. I am against it. Don't add stuff into your engine or gas tank as some snake oil / elixir that is purported to fix everything. Those types of additives can frequently cause more problems than they solve. If they were so great, then large trucking companies would be using their stuff in every big truck, and they DON'T. I think the stuff is evil.
Anyway, I have seen vehicles get out on the open road, burn out a quart of oil on the first leg of the trip and not burn any for the additional 3000 of a trip. This is usually due to the fact that over time, the oil has built up fuel and water residue in it due to being a daily driver (or close). Once it's out on the road, it gets nice and warmed up and everything is circulating and it burns off the water and gasoline that had settled in the oil, thus at the end of the first leg, the oil is a quart low. (I have a Jeep GC as well as had a Chev. Cavalier that did exactly this.)
At this time, check the oil as your wife comes back and see if the truck loses another quart of oil on the return trip. If it doesn't, then I I would chalk it up to that and keep an eye on it.
If it does lose another quart, then I would start some diagnosis:
PCV Valve: How long ago was it changed? Is it OEM?
Maybe consider installing a oil separator in the intake between the PCV and the intake manifold to remove it from the emissions and that can help identify where it's coming from. If there is a lot of accumulation, then the rings are starting to get worn.
As far as smoke goes, it will be rare that you will be able to see ANY smoke while you are driving it. The job of the catalytic converters is to burn off the impurities and drop emissions. However, if you follow the truck or have someone follow you and advise what they see.
Blue Smoke on start-up: Valve seals
Blue Smoke on acceleration: Piston rings
Blue Smoke on deceleration: Valve seals
Black smoke on acceleration: Too rich fuel mixture
Black smoke on deceleration: Too rich fuel mixture or injector hanging open
White smoke on start-up: Condensation in exhaust or head gasket
White smoke on acceleration: Head gasket
White smoke on deceleration: Head gasket
Excessive amount of oil going through the PCV valve: Piston Rings
My truck burns and leaks no oil in 7000 miles on an oil change that is of any discernible amount. I am VERY fortunate, as it has 224K on it. The HG was changed at 145K. I have done one Blackstone oil analysis with very positive results and am going to run another at the end of my 7000 interval this next time. My truck is a DD that gets highway use and fully warmed up every day.
Acceleration Stutter:
This could be a couple things, but needs a little more analysis. It is under light accel at 60 MPH.
TPS
O2 sensors
Exhaust leak
Trans linkage
Motor mounts
U-Joints
Drive shaft slip yoke
Vacuum line leak
Trans kick-down cable adjustment
No Check Engine Light (CEL) codes right?!?!?!
Usually, for LIGHT acceleration, I would lean towards the TPS, BUT sometimes a change in drive line on a lifted truck can give a similar feeling due to changing geometry as it changes (alternates) between acceleration, neutral, and deceleration.
Thus far, I don't see any cause for alarm. These are worth looking into to maintain confidence and reliability, and most importantly, that great feeling when the
wants to drive it!
OK: Standard list of questions:
Oil Consumption:
1) When (if ever) was your head gasket done (not a head gasket problem, just looking for a point of reference on valve seals)
2) What oil are you running? (Brand and weight)
Don't run Seafoam. There are a number of opinions here for and against. I am against it. Don't add stuff into your engine or gas tank as some snake oil / elixir that is purported to fix everything. Those types of additives can frequently cause more problems than they solve. If they were so great, then large trucking companies would be using their stuff in every big truck, and they DON'T. I think the stuff is evil.
Anyway, I have seen vehicles get out on the open road, burn out a quart of oil on the first leg of the trip and not burn any for the additional 3000 of a trip. This is usually due to the fact that over time, the oil has built up fuel and water residue in it due to being a daily driver (or close). Once it's out on the road, it gets nice and warmed up and everything is circulating and it burns off the water and gasoline that had settled in the oil, thus at the end of the first leg, the oil is a quart low. (I have a Jeep GC as well as had a Chev. Cavalier that did exactly this.)
At this time, check the oil as your wife comes back and see if the truck loses another quart of oil on the return trip. If it doesn't, then I I would chalk it up to that and keep an eye on it.
If it does lose another quart, then I would start some diagnosis:
PCV Valve: How long ago was it changed? Is it OEM?
Maybe consider installing a oil separator in the intake between the PCV and the intake manifold to remove it from the emissions and that can help identify where it's coming from. If there is a lot of accumulation, then the rings are starting to get worn.
As far as smoke goes, it will be rare that you will be able to see ANY smoke while you are driving it. The job of the catalytic converters is to burn off the impurities and drop emissions. However, if you follow the truck or have someone follow you and advise what they see.
Blue Smoke on start-up: Valve seals
Blue Smoke on acceleration: Piston rings
Blue Smoke on deceleration: Valve seals
Black smoke on acceleration: Too rich fuel mixture
Black smoke on deceleration: Too rich fuel mixture or injector hanging open
White smoke on start-up: Condensation in exhaust or head gasket
White smoke on acceleration: Head gasket
White smoke on deceleration: Head gasket
Excessive amount of oil going through the PCV valve: Piston Rings
My truck burns and leaks no oil in 7000 miles on an oil change that is of any discernible amount. I am VERY fortunate, as it has 224K on it. The HG was changed at 145K. I have done one Blackstone oil analysis with very positive results and am going to run another at the end of my 7000 interval this next time. My truck is a DD that gets highway use and fully warmed up every day.
Acceleration Stutter:
This could be a couple things, but needs a little more analysis. It is under light accel at 60 MPH.
TPS
O2 sensors
Exhaust leak
Trans linkage
Motor mounts
U-Joints
Drive shaft slip yoke
Vacuum line leak
Trans kick-down cable adjustment
No Check Engine Light (CEL) codes right?!?!?!
Usually, for LIGHT acceleration, I would lean towards the TPS, BUT sometimes a change in drive line on a lifted truck can give a similar feeling due to changing geometry as it changes (alternates) between acceleration, neutral, and deceleration.
Thus far, I don't see any cause for alarm. These are worth looking into to maintain confidence and reliability, and most importantly, that great feeling when the
wants to drive it!
- Thread starter
- #77
Hey @jstouder Glad to hear you had a good trip! Hopefully post some pics of the fun!
OK: Standard list of questions:
Oil Consumption:
1) When (if ever) was your head gasket done (not a head gasket problem, just looking for a point of reference on valve seals)
2) What oil are you running? (Brand and weight)
Don't run Seafoam. There are a number of opinions here for and against. I am against it. Don't add stuff into your engine or gas tank as some snake oil / elixir that is purported to fix everything. Those types of additives can frequently cause more problems than they solve. If they were so great, then large trucking companies would be using their stuff in every big truck, and they DON'T. I think the stuff is evil.
Anyway, I have seen vehicles get out on the open road, burn out a quart of oil on the first leg of the trip and not burn any for the additional 3000 of a trip. This is usually due to the fact that over time, the oil has built up fuel and water residue in it due to being a daily driver (or close). Once it's out on the road, it gets nice and warmed up and everything is circulating and it burns off the water and gasoline that had settled in the oil, thus at the end of the first leg, the oil is a quart low. (I have a Jeep GC as well as had a Chev. Cavalier that did exactly this.)
At this time, check the oil as your wife comes back and see if the truck loses another quart of oil on the return trip. If it doesn't, then I I would chalk it up to that and keep an eye on it.
If it does lose another quart, then I would start some diagnosis:
PCV Valve: How long ago was it changed? Is it OEM?
Maybe consider installing a oil separator in the intake between the PCV and the intake manifold to remove it from the emissions and that can help identify where it's coming from. If there is a lot of accumulation, then the rings are starting to get worn.
As far as smoke goes, it will be rare that you will be able to see ANY smoke while you are driving it. The job of the catalytic converters is to burn off the impurities and drop emissions. However, if you follow the truck or have someone follow you and advise what they see.
Blue Smoke on start-up: Valve seals
Blue Smoke on acceleration: Piston rings
Blue Smoke on deceleration: Valve seals
Black smoke on acceleration: Too rich fuel mixture
Black smoke on deceleration: Too rich fuel mixture or injector hanging open
White smoke on start-up: Condensation in exhaust or head gasket
White smoke on acceleration: Head gasket
White smoke on deceleration: Head gasket
Excessive amount of oil going through the PCV valve: Piston Rings
My truck burns and leaks no oil in 7000 miles on an oil change that is of any discernible amount. I am VERY fortunate, as it has 224K on it. The HG was changed at 145K. I have done one Blackstone oil analysis with very positive results and am going to run another at the end of my 7000 interval this next time. My truck is a DD that gets highway use and fully warmed up every day.
Acceleration Stutter:
This could be a couple things, but needs a little more analysis. It is under light accel at 60 MPH.
TPS
O2 sensors
Exhaust leak
Trans linkage
Motor mounts
U-Joints
Drive shaft slip yoke
Vacuum line leak
Trans kick-down cable adjustment
No Check Engine Light (CEL) codes right?!?!?!
Usually, for LIGHT acceleration, I would lean towards the TPS, BUT sometimes a change in drive line on a lifted truck can give a similar feeling due to changing geometry as it changes (alternates) between acceleration, neutral, and deceleration.
Thus far, I don't see any cause for alarm. These are worth looking into to maintain confidence and reliability, and most importantly, that great feeling when the
Thanks @BILT4ME.
Not sure on the HG but I'm believing it was replaced by the PO. I've done the radiator bubbler test and it came out clean after fifteen minutes of running. I've got the Blackstone kit ready as soon as she gets back it's going out.
I run Valvoline 5/30 oil. I'll check the oil levels when she gets back tomorrow.
Valve cover gasket, spark plugs, spark plug tube seals, PCV, and O2 sensors are under one year old and are all OEM.
Absolutely no CEL codes for either issue.
The acceleration stutter is so specific to actually accelerating that I'm narrowing down to the TPS or MAF. You know me and this FJ... I want it damn near perfect so this is driving me nuts. You literally only feel the stutter when depressing the accelerator to hold speed at 60mph or higher. I'm talking 1/8 to 1/4" depressing of the pedal from the standard, stock position. Imagine coasting down a gentle grade in Colorado and wanting to hold your speed. Doing so causes a noticeable stutter throughout the vehicle. Doesn't happen during hard acceleration or in town.
ppc
M Go Blue
Also consider the possibility of a weak fuel pump. Under the conditions you describe is when the pump is running in lower voltage. You could test this by overriding the fuel pump relay to keep the pump running at 12V continuously.
- Thread starter
- #80
Great point. That being said, within the last four months I had the fuel pump replaced (along with basically everything else besides the fuel lines themselves). I'm fairly confident it isn't the fuel lines.
I'll start with the TPS and go from there. I've got a line on a OEM MAF (the one I have is used from the junkyard) but will not jump until I've narrowed it down to the MAF ($650 new).
